From what I remember reading they are going to be compatible with the 9 series chips sets that are already out. And they are almost making a new Z99 chipset. So I am going to assume if they come out with an i5 gen 5 with will be with the 1150 and if it is an i7 it will probably be 2011.
A friend of mine is looking for a literary agent for a book he's written and I was wondering if anyone on here might be able to help him out with a connection?
I need to get my hands on a reasonably priced, downloadable copy of MS Office 2010. Another alternative solution is a copy of Outlook 2007. Anyone have any recommendations for a reliable source on the inter-webs?
I am having the most frustrating problem with this board and my work laptop. For whatever reason, they've locked this laptop down to bare minimum, so I'm relegated to using IE9 with no ability to install other browsers. When I use IE9 to reply to PMs, the first one I send in a day goes through without any difficulty whatsoever. However, any subsequent messages get the "Internet Explorer Cannot Display The Webpage" message, and the only way I can get the message to go is to close all IE windows, open a new window, re-load TiB and reply that way. I used to be able to just refresh the PM screen, but that worked for a day before it also got the error message. Likewise with backspacing, or logging out and logging back in, or just closing the TiB window and opening it somewhere else. At this point, every single browser window has to be shut and re-opened for a message to be sent. Anyone know what could be wrong here? I'm reluctant to tell IT that they need to fix my laptop because I can't post PMs to my internet friends with the frequency I would like.
I have no idea. The only thing I can think of is to disable all caching of content and try and force it to reload everything every time.
do we have any home stereo gurus here? i have some questions about dacs, and which ones will work best with a home stereo system and an ipad. i've been doing some research, and most seem to be geared towards headphones. what i'm looking to do is use my ipad or phone with spotify, and want to get the best sound out of it that i can. how i think my setup would be ipad>dac>home stereo. i know i want a dac that uses an external power source and has usb input. any suggestions? i think most will work for the home stereo, since it's just converting the signal to analog, but it gets murky which ones will work with my ipad gen 4.
anyone know about the legality of a lawyer with your case retiring and referring you to another attorney?
I'm looking for a reasonably priced set of skis and boots for the upcoming season. I'm not an advanced skier by any means, but I'd like gear that's going to last a while. There are so many brands, I'm not sure what to start looking at, so any pointers would be appreciated.
Depending on where you live (burbs of PA), and what mountains you frequent, most will have a Ski Swap event before the start in the ski season, usually in late October or early November where you can buy last year's models at decent prices. I would start looking around for those types of events.
Without knowing the circumstances, not sure what to say, but generally it's a thing that can happen. The client isn't generally required to accept the new lawyer if they don't like them for some reason.
What type of skiing do you mostly do? Powder, Off-piste, groomers, moguls, etc. That will help narrow down the choices as well. Go with a ski that suits what you do 75% of the time. Pick a budget for each item (ski's, boots, bindings) and go read the reviews for the equipment that falls into that range. I've generally found that each ski at each price range are all the similar. A $1000 ski is a $1000 ski and performs the same regardless of manufacturer, so you're pretty much just picking a logo you like. For boots finding somebody who can properly fit ski boots is probably the best thing you can do. Poke around on ski forums in your area, they usually know who is good at fitting boots. +1 to the end of season, equipment swap sales. You can get some pretty good deals on gear, but do your research first. I always spend money in the following way: 1. Boots 2. Bindings 3. Ski's Don't cheap out on bindings. No sense in having really good boots, and really good ski's, but the connection between the two is so shitty the ski ends up fighting you all the time. My opinion, not everyone agrees with that though.
Since you're in the Pittsburgh area, I'm guessing you plan to ski at 7 Springs, Hidden Valley or Nemacolin Woodlands? Hidden Valley's better for learning, less people and more forgiving terrain. 7 Springs is a good mountain for the area, but will get crowded. Nemacolin opened after I moved away so I can't say either way what its like. Either way, in that area, you'll predominately ski groomed snow unless you catch a lucky break where you get up there after a significant snowfall before they run the groomers and everyone else. +2 on the order of precedence. Great skis and shitty uncomfortable boots means you won't ski. Skimping on bindings, well that's often self correcting. How proficient are you at it? If you're still learning the basics, I recommend getting the most comfortable boots you can afford and then spend on bindings and then lastly skis. More than likely you'll tear up the skis while learning and after a few seasons will have a better idea what you like and don't like. If you can, I'd buy boots this season and rent skis this season while learning. After your skills improve, rent demo skis and see how they feel. Skis will be pretty similar across the same price point, but once you become proficient you will feel a difference between manufacturers. Have you checked out any of the Willi's Ski & Snowboard shops? You just missed their Labor Day sale at the Monroeville Expo Center. They usually have really really good deals on equipment and clothing at that sale.
My husband works for a company that makes machines that do chemistry type things. He has been installing, maintaining and repairing them for customers for years. Mechanically he knows them back and forth. His new job, among other things, is to be a facilitator so that when customers have a problem, he can direct them to who can best resolve it (if he can't with what he already knows). Most of the time he has little understanding of when customers have a chemistry question, and he doesn't want to waste the customer or the chemists' time with misdirection. Long story short, he and his boss were thinking he could take some classes in chemistry. He doesn't want a degree, just learn what he needs for his job. He doesn't know if that is feasible. He is also concerned about any prerequisites there might be that he doesn't have time to fulfill. He has an associates degree in electrical engineering. These are what his boss said would be beneficial: - acid/base chemistry - electronegativity - covalent bonding Neither of us really know anything about college courses in today's environment, whether there's any way to tailor a curriculum that helps him to understand what he needs to understand without any intent of pursuing a degree.
I say go in and talk to the Dean of Chemistry/Science at your local college. If you tell them what he's trying to do, they could very well recommend and let him attend a few relevant classes and give him credit for "real world experience" and waive some of the prerequisites. If you're doing it just for the learning, and not a degree, they could be somewhat lenient. I used to do control systems at pulp and paper mills, and this kind of thing was done for a few of the operators who wanted to learn more about the chemistry behind the process they were operating. The local mill actually helped pay for the courses because, in their mind, it provided them with more knowledgeable and (hopefully) safer operators.
My wife and I purchased a home recently and settled on September 5th with most contract language and items dealt with in August. We had some issues that they needed to resolve prior to closing and had a repair addendum. A big one was an underground oil tank. We went back and forth with language regarding the tank and ultimately, the oil. They removed the existing tank that was underground and leaking. They remediated the soil and we recieved a no further action letter from the state that all is well. We were originally told that they were only going to put 50 gallons of oil in the new tank as the old oil can't be used. Then we were elated to find out that they can remove the oil, filter it and put it into the new tank. We were under the assumption that we would pay for the cost of the oil being removed, filtered and placed back into the tank. The oil that was in the old tank was put into the tank and paid for in March. The seller, after settlement, contacted us demanding payment for the oil remaining in the tank. They offered us a deal and only would charge us current market rate of $3.44 a gallon versus the $3.94 they paid in March. Nothing was brought up in the days prior to settlement and nothing was brought up during settlement or even a couple days after. Settlement was on a Friday and I got a message from the seller middle of the following week with the demands. They did some terrible repairs that we need to redo and they actually gave us cash at settlement for us to do the work ourselves and not go back to the drawing board and get it all written up in the HUD statement, etc. We were fine with that. Also, if they were expecting money for the oil, they should have brought it up then and handed us the cash minus the oil price. They didn't. This is the final language from the repair addendum in our contract, "Buyer to reimburse seller for oil that has been removed and filtered and placed back into new tank. Receipt for oil to be provided by oil company by settlement." It was verified to me by the oil company that no charges were made to the seller for removing, filtering and replacing the oil. Now, the repair addendum did say that we are to reimburse seller for oil in a roundabout way, so it seems vague and we might be on the hook. But, the end sentence makes me feel we shouldn't have to pay anything. "Receipt for oil to be provided by oil company by settlement." Nothing provided prior or the day of. I got an email from my realtor today, September 20th, with some text from the sellers realtor asking for a check. In that email chain, an email was sent to the seller from the oil company that the oil was $3.94 a gallon that was replaced into the tank. Unless, they charged her for the oil in March and then charged her again for the same oil, this is misleading. That email from the oil company was dated September 19th. Also, that is the first somewhat "official" receipt for oil. It all arrived on September 19th. We settled on the home on September 5th. Am I missing something legally? Are we on the hook for paying for this existing oil even though we have the deed, all documents have been signed, sealed and delivered? Documents were signed that stated we were happy with all addendum items and nothing was remotely mentioned that any items were outstanding or needing to be resolved. Again, nothing was ever mentioned prior to or during closing that reimbursement of oil was an issue. We went into closing feeling that all was well as they weren't charged for the filtering of the oil. We truly believed that they had to dispose of all oil due to potential contaminants and then we'd buy all new oil and were elated to find out otherwise as nobody was getting charged anything additional hence us not needing to reimburse for oil. The total is around $700. Not a huge deal but the garbage disposal already broke and there are a couple other small items unexpectedly found that we will be dealing with and paying her that money would be tough. She got full asking price with no closing assistance the day it went to market. Even though the language states we'd technically, "reimburse for oil," our intent was only to pay the removal and filtering, not as if it was new. The language should have been clearer. They are interpreting differently now, but it does say, "prior to settlement." It's long past that. Any advice on this? Thanks.
I have a full beard and I usually keep it trimmed. Decided to have some fun this fall/winter and let it grow. It's already getting a little... Unruly. Anyone have any suggestions on how to tame it a bit? A certain kind of brush or comb or something?
I'm looking to coat/seal/protect my garage floor. The house is new construction, and so far I have only used the garage for storage. I don't want to use the cheap home depot epoxy, I want something that will stand up to some abuse - dropped tools, spilled gas/oil/etc. Any recommendations? I'll be using the garage for parking, working on the Jeep and motorcycle, and as a shop - woodworking, metal working, welding.