Given how expensive it is to find out that you've shorted your main board during a build, and how fucking inconvenient it is to try and troubleshoot an issue without hotspares - I understand not wanting to build yourself. I wouldn't do it - but I get it. If you're going to go big - I would agree, fuck alienware. If you want someone else to build it and you're willing to pay a premium for the warranty and single point of support, Go with <a class="postlink" href="http://www.falcon-nw.com/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;">http://www.falcon-nw.com/</a> something like a MachV with the Intel X58 starting template, with a Core I7 980x, a 1200watt psu, improved liquid cooling, 12gb 1600mhz ddr3 ram, radeon 5970, 64gb ssd primary drive, 500gb secondary drive and the rest of the options default for the template - which comes out just over $4k, with a 3 year warranty, professional over clocking, covered by warranty and done by very experienced and helpful guys. A thousand bucks cheaper than the closest equivalent Alienware build and if you want to spend a bit more money - the fancier cases or custom mods available are pretty awesome.
I just threw random components together in a cart that were the same or as close to what you posted from Newegg. The total came out to $2,234.92. I left out a monitor and choose a lower i7 because there aren't to many people that will notice the difference a 900 dollar processor and a 580 dollar one. If you'd like to throw a water cooler in there, there are factory sealed units from Corsair that you can buy and just plop it onto your processor. With the money you save, you can pay a computer savy friend 50 bucks to build it for you if you're scared. Nowadays its basically plug the right things in into the right slots and power up. Took me maybe an hour to build mine. I've had experience though. The ONLY company I know that gets close to newegg in terms of price that are prebuilt is cyberpowerpc.com. There is a slight premium, but nothing like an extra 2,000 dollars for a 3 year warranty.
Just to clarify - I only mentioned the deviations away from the stock template mentioned - so I kind of hope you included a mobo, case, nice liquid cooling and etc in the newegg comparison - the falcon north western option also includes professional, warranty covered overclocking with a well tested and and well understood configuration in a premium case - which I'd argue are pretty valuable additions. I don't disagree that it's fucking expensive - and it's not how I would personally buy a PC, but if you're looking for a pre-assembled, high end PC - it trumps the fuck out of alienware. To play devils advocate for a moment, when you have your single item of each part arrive at home, where you don't have a static free environment, a ground station for your work station, hotspares, or in the case of the guy in question - significant experience doing this sort of thing - and something doesn't work - what do you? Which item of hardware do you assume is DOA? How do you prove it was DOA? How do you prove it was only that component? Assuming you get a computer savvy friend to do it for you - presumably the guy doesn't have a friend with a build bench and hot spares, or he wouldn't be in this position - so if something goes wrong, do you pay for it or does your friend who fucked up pay for it? Will the 50 bucks you've paid him be worth the friendship damage when you have to either replace your $600 processor out of your own pocket or make your friend do it out of his pocket (when he was just doing you a favor to begin with)? When there is a fault in 3 months and you try and claim the warranty - assuming again that you have no hot spares, no friends with a build bench and hot spares, no test kit and not a huge amount of experience with PC hardware maintenance - do you then go out of pocket to obtain a spare to verify the source of the fault? Do you send your whole computer away to a warranty supplier who may well come back a week later and tell you no fault found with <component> try one of the other vendors? Etc. If you need to get a local computer guy to come out for emergency repairs charged by the hour - how much is it going to eat into your saving on buying the thing pre-built and covered by a single warranty? How much are you willing to pay to have the thing arrive and work perfectly, without any time, stress or risk to you? Knowing that if anything goes wrong - it's covered by warranty and your only problem is a single return to vendor for warranty repair or replacement? Again, not how I'd buy the thing - but I understand why someone would choose to go that route.
Statistics help Anyone good with statistics? I'm needing some help finding these Critical Values of the Pearson Product-Moment Correlation Coefficient using a TI83. Is there a formula, program or function built into the calculator that can help me find these values? <a class="postlink" href="http://www.gifted.uconn.edu/siegle/research/correlation/corrchrt.htm" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;">http://www.gifted.uconn.edu/siegle/rese ... rrchrt.htm</a> For reference, I'm wanting to find those values, but I want them to be found given exact degrees of freeedom 38 for example, given a specific level of significance. For example, I'd like to find 38 degrees of freedom given a .01 level of confidence. I have that actual chart I can use in general, but I need to be more specific. Any takers?
I'm pretty terrible when it comes to computers, but my laptop monitor has been having some issues lateley. It has gone into Safe Mode for a while, and all the icons and everything else are oversized and I can't get it to go back to the regular size. Now, when I shut down and restart everything it gets to my desktop home screen, then goes black...the whole monitor just shuts down but the computer keeps running. Not sure if I should take it and have it looked at or try something else.
Doesn't sound like a monitor issue, more like a video card issue. At least hopefully, if it's not the video card you may have a decent amount to trouble shoot. I'm pretty good with computers but I'll let the more knowledgeable board members reply.
So you can see video during the entire start up process but once the computer boots into normal mode it shits the bed? And from Safe Mode, besides everything being oversized it works correctly? If this is the case, I suspect either the video card (not being able to display higher resolutions) or the drivers. So clarify this for me: Is it booting into Safe Mode on its own?
If anyone here is really good at MS Access I've been hitting an issue my brain has refused to resolve. PM if you think you can help and I'll provide the convoluted details.
Right. Start up process is normal, then after a few seconds the monitor craps out. Everything works in Safe Mode, despite everything being oversized. And yes, it is booting into Safe Mode on its own.
Re: Statistics help If it's anything like a t-test then I'm pretty sure you just take the next lowest one, which would be 35 df.
Odd request, but I'll see if it works. I'm working on a report for a professional writing class, and while the majority of it is based on a case study, I do need to do some background research. Does anyone have any resources on the finer points of opening up a factory in China for a company based out of the US? Specifically, opening a factory in the Shenzhen region? I know it's an SEZ and do have some cursory information, but I'm having trouble finding the stuff I need. Anything with specific forms or requirements would possibly make me want to blow you. And no, I'm not being lazy. I've been working my balls off trying to get this done, and figured I'd reach out to anyone else that was willing/able to help before I threw the whole thing together. Thanks all.
Aside from the video issues, booting into Safe Mode on its own is a sign that something is corrupt in the OS. You can re-write the system files with an original disk without altering any of your data or programs. The fact that once it is in normal mode and then the video craps out, I'm highly suspecting the drivers that it is loading. So recommendations: If you can get it into normal mode, re-install video drivers. Get them from the manufacturer of your laptop. Lets get that part working first if we can and then I'll walk you through how to reinstall all of your system files without futzing with your programs and data.
I need some help from someone who's really good at math. Well, at least someone who's better than me. If I run 20 mph for 8 seconds, what would my time in the 40 yd dash be? What would my time in the 100m be assuming I could continue that pace to cover 100 meters? Also out of curiousity, how much force would a 105 kg (231 lb) man create by running at 20 mph? Assume the speed a constant. No need to account for acceleration from a dead stop.
Seconds are irrelevant. 40 yds = 120 ft 20 mph: (5,280 * 20) / 3600 = 29.333 fps 120/29.333 = 4.09 seconds for the 40 yards 100 meters = 328.08 feet 328.08 / 29.333 = 11.18 seconds for the 100 meters F = ma, so no acceleration = no force. You'd have some kinetic energy... KE = 1/2 (M * V^2) KE = 1/2 (105kg * 8.9m/s^2) = 4158.5 Joules edit: please ignore the incredibly sloppy sig figs...
You would create force by deccelerating. So if you're running at a certain constant velocity, then you come to a complete over X distance in Y amount of time, there would be a force measurement.
If you can estimate the drag coefficient of an average person then you can find out how much force has to be produced at 20 mph to maintain that speed.
I'm guessing if acceleration was thrown out of the equation, drag coefficients don't enter into it. If you wanted to, say, calculate the force you could impart on a person if you ran into them you could do something like, say: F = ma Acceleration could be to zero mph, over the course of a half second: a = (0 m/s - 8.9 m/s) / 0.5 s a = -17.9 m/s/s F = 105 kg * 17.9 m/s/s F = 1879.5 Newtons
Ok, settle down, you nerds. No need to get your plaid high-waters in a bunch. Bottom line is, if I'm running at full speed and I hit you, it's going to hurt. Thanks for the prompt and thorough responses.
For general non-Ansel Adams picture taking any of the small point-and-shoot cameras available will probably serve you well. Pocket-sized digital cameras have gotten to the point where any of the well known brands (and some unknowns) are dependable and produce acceptable pictures. The decision comes down to the features that you need. If dropping the camera into a urinal while trying to take stealthy shots of the guy's junk next to you is a concern, get one that is water and shock resistant (like this one). If you have to get it into the pocket of your painted on skinny jeans, find a thin one (like this). If you can't find a tree to climb close to her window, find one with a good zoom (like this).