Left my apartment today to find a pair of these arrows painted on the sidewalk leading to my door. They are facing each other about 15 feet apart, the closest is only 5 feet from my door. Anyone know what they mean?
Look like construction markers, like they are going to be tearing up the sidewalk from that point to another point, or something similar.
I just wanted to take a moment here, as a female scotch drinker, to suggest NOT buying any of the Islay scotches, unless you know for an absolute fact that she is a fan. I have been valiantly working to develop a taste for them for a long ass time, but Laphroaig still just tastes like asphalt/dirt to me. If she is still trying to feel out her preferences, definitely go with the Balvenie, Macallan, or Glenfiddich, which are interesting but not offensive to the vast majority of drinkers. Let her develop her weird scotch preferences over time (and preferably in a bar, where she won't then be stuck with a bottle of the stuff).
So, I pulled out my old collection of Yugioh cards and went through a few with yugico.com....looks like I stand to make a few hundred bucks plus selling these. Hell, I have a single card that's worth $25 alone - my question is, should I try to sell the most valued ones via ebay, or is it safe to trust a card store in the area to not fuck me over?
If you know their value (considering their condition), go to the local store and give them a chance to *not* fuck you over. If they try severely lowballing you, then fuck 'em, go to eBay.
I'm having one of the most annoying computer issues known to man and all of my searching has led me absolutely nowhere. I have an external hard drive. It has been working fine for the past 5-6 months. Yesterday, I installed two new sticks of ram. Hard drive was removed from the computer and the power cord was taken out. Today, my computer hangs at the bios splash screen when the hard drive is plugged into a USB port. Unplug it and it instantly keeps going through the boot sequence. If it is plugged in on boot up, you can't enter bios or do anything until it is unplugged. It will eventually move past the bios splash screen about 5-8 minutes of just sitting there. If I wait to get into windows and then I plug the hard drive in, it searches for it, but fails to install the proper driver and it's unrecognizable. It's listed as a USB mass storage device in Device manager with a exclamation. When I plug the drive into my laptop, it's recognized immediately and I can use it. Unfortunately there are no drivers to download off the makers website (hitachi) as the program that contains the drivers/info is contained in a non-removable partition on the drive. Things I've tried to fix this problem. 1. Went into bios changed the boot order to just boot from hard drive. Changed the options for the other boot sequence items to disabled. 2. Changed USB from fast speed to full/slow speed in bios. 3. Removed all USB controllers in device manager and windows re-installed them with no resolution. 4. Changed USB cord from computer to drive. 5. Tried all USB slots in the back and front of the computer. 6. Tried taking out the two new memory sticks since that was the only change that was made, problem still exists. 7.???????? 8. Profit. Computer specs. Vista(I know...) 4gig of ram, 2.2ghz dual core, ATI Radeon 3450, 2TB internal, DVD-R. I know this board has some really good computer techs. Any help would be appreciated.
So I've been considering options for the past year after graduation of what I want to do career-wise, and I decided that I want to pursue my MD. A year after graduation, my life is consisting of working at a metal fabrication shop, training jiujitsu, reading, and hanging out with friends. Definitely not where I want my life to be at in five years or so. I already have my BA in Liberal Studies, will be 25 this month, and am looking to start taking classes again (hopefully by Winter term) to be able to apply for medical school. The basic requirements so far are seemingly just a couple years of university science classes, one course of math (already completed), statistics recommended but not required, humanities, and a BA (already completed). After these but prior to applying to medical school, I will need to take the MCAT as well. I was wondering if any TIB member had any input on going through this path. Is there anything that you wish someone would have told you going through this? Anything you would have done differently if you were to go through it again? Anything you did or saw people doing that gave them an edge in the process? Any advice regarding going through the medical school application/class process would be really appreciated.
I pursued a similar route for 2 years after getting my BA in Philosophy before I wound up applying to law school. One suggestion I have is to get yourself some real world experience. Find work in a lab or at a hospital. Paid, volunteer, whatever. If you're near a big university you should be able to find something counting drosophila, cleaning out animal cages or whatever even with a minimal science background to begin with. If you can find a paid position as a research assistant, more power to you. At the very least volunteer at a hospital handing out mail or something. Another idea is to get certified as an EMT. In some places you can get the first level of certification in as little as two weeks though you should look how it works in your own state. A more realistic expectation would be about 2 months. The real point I'm trying to make is that med school admissions want to see interest and dedication beyond classwork.
I have an old credit card bill that, after I was laid off from a job, I had to stop paying. It's around $1800 I think. This was 3-4 years ago. It went to various collections agencies and they called and called but I never talked to them because I couldn't pay it anyways, obviously not the right move but it's just what I did. Now I'd like pay it off but I no longer receive any calls from collections. How do I find out who to contact about the debt? I know these agencies will settle for less than what you owe, how do you go about negotiating that?
Would anyone here happen to know anything about overseas contracting jobs, particularly those available for someone without any military background? A little bird once told me that there's always a plethora of them available in all sorts of capacities, but I haven't the first clue how to inquire about them.
<a class="postlink" href="https://www.annualcreditreport.com/cra/index.jsp" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;">https://www.annualcreditreport.com/cra/index.jsp</a> Run your credit report and find out who currently holds the debt. It may be marked as written off, which means they're not collecting for it. You could call them and ask if you pay part of it if they'll take it off your credit record entirely - I honestly don't know if they can do that once they've written it off.
I just checked and it is written off. I am going to call them and see what they say. I called, it's been sold off multiple times to different agencies, each one I call gives me a phone number to the next one. I am such a winner.
Well, if it's written off, they won't be trying to collect on it so you do have the option of just ignoring it and dealing with the black mark on your credit. If it was long enough ago, it might be worth waiting out until it drops off. Also, if your credit has been good since then, you might not be doing too bad - you could check a site like freecreditscore.com to find out what your actual credit score is and see if it's worth fighting for.
I think it's 7 years that it stays on my record so I'd have 3-4 more years to go. I am wanting to buy one of my parents houses within the next year or two though so I am trying to get my credit back. All my other loans and monthly payments have been fine except for this credit card. I am hoping I can just pay around $500 or so to settle it so that isn't too much money to at least try to fix things. I do know that my credit is shit though, I couldn't even get a Sears card last year.
When I moved out of my college apartment, another guy I knew moved in. I found out that he wouldn't have power for a day or so if I closed my account with the utility company, so I told him to call and switch it over to his name once he moved in--he said he would. I called a few days later to check and see if he did it, and he said he did. Don't fucking trust people. 4 months later, I had a utility bill in my name that went unpaid for 120 days and went to collections. They had been mailing the notices to the wrong address, so until I ran my credit report, I had no idea there was anything wrong. The second I found out about it, I paid it off, but that record is on my credit report for another few years. For reference, my credit score dropped from well above 700 to below 600 for that one thing. Fuck that "friend." Because of that, I had to settle for a credit card with a shitty limit with Orchard Bank because no one would touch me, and my credit score (after years of building it back up) was just barely beyond the cut-off when I went to buy my condo a year and a half ago. Best of luck with the home purchase, but unless your credit score isn't at least 660 (and even that's pushing it) you're going to have a hell of a time getting a mortgage. Some lenders won't even look at you if you've got negative marks on your report within the last three years.
Spoilered because it is long. Spoiler Background: I've got 8 years in the Army with several deployments. I've worked with all the major contract organizations and quite a few of the smaller players. My experience with them can't be generalized as some were phenomenal, some horrible, and you really couldn't tell how it would go until you worked with them. With no military background and I am assuming no security clearance, jobs are still available but you will be at a steep disadvantage. Your best bet, if you can't find an in, are some of the larger clearing house contractors (KBR, Dyncorp, OshKosh). I'm not certain what your background is, but IT and logistics are the 2 biggest draws that I've seen which don't require specialized skills. The goal is to get the initial contract, develop your skill set and specialize, see whats out there, then transfer to a better company. Once you are inside the game, you'll find more and better opportunities which you didn't have access to before. If you are really good at your job, you'll be actively recruited by others. Ideally, you'd be sponsored for a security clearance, receive some training on things unique to the military and gov't and then can trade up after the initial contract. I'm also operating under the assumption that you are looking for military or government contract work, specifically with an eye towards Central Asia and the Middle East. If that is not the case, there are other opportunities in the private sector, specifically Oil and Gas, which are a good ticket to international work. Exxon, Aramco, BP, Marathon, etc. They are concerned with everything from production and engineering to supply chain and security and all points in between. Or you can look at NGOs, non-profits, or even teaching english to furriners if the goal is just to break ties with the home country. I really can't offer any more advice without knowing your skill set and what you want out of it. Hope this helps.
I currently have Time Warner for our cable, internet and home phone service. We got this triple package due to the low price when we signed up. We've never used the home phone number and really only have it for emergencies. We are planning on dropping the phone part of our cable package and lowering our cable service to very basic and just keeping the internet. It'll just save money that we don't need to be spending. What is the best inexpensive home phone setups? MagicJack, etc. I want to set something up that's just local calls and very cheap and then port the current home number over before I cancel the phone number from the cable company. This is sad but I have no idea the proper steps and what my best options are. I'm located in North Carolina if that info even helps at all. Thanks for the help on this. My google-fu is coming up weak on this one for some reason. I see magicjack and ooma, etc. and I really know nothing about these types of setups and what's best.