I would think that with a roll of metal screen from a glass shop and a pair of tin snips you could do the same thing at a fraction of the price. Just cut it a little wider than the gutter so you have a convex shape and you should have a maintenance free set up.
When I built my house 20 years ago, after cleaning gutters - dealing with screens that inevitably got shit in them anyway, moving ladders, blowers, gutter cleaning tools, etc. - at the previous two houses, I left the gutters off. I have been delighted with my decision. There are a couple hot spots for drips. I've added egg rock under a pinestraw bed, and some bigger rock splash pads in two places. Over one door, I built an awning style entry. I have trees near my house, and I have not regretted my decision. My lot is sloping, so on the uphill side I have a beefy French drain installed and the downhill side sheds well. (And my house is all brick) So, as long as the drainage can be kept away from the foundation, no gutters is the way to go.
I've heard good things about Costco's gutter guards. I think the brand is easyon. We had the kind that weren't mesh, but solid and curved and the water was supposed to roll into the gutter while everything else slid off. Those sucked, I removed them.
I can't win with this thing. I'm in the garage and see some moisture on the base that the water heater is sitting on. I pop off the access cover and the pan is filled with water. Happy fucking New Years
Oh. Does this mean we get to have the tankless water heater discussion now? I went tankless and fucking LOVE it.
So it looks like we (by which I mean my wife) are looking into remodeling our kitchen, and one of the things that I want to do is seriously upgrade our range and venting. I know there was a thread sometime back talking about that specific topic, but I couldn't find it in my search. That being said, can someone give me the cliff notes version of what was considered the top options for a new hood/vent?
Here ya go: There are so many angles to proper ventilation. We called them the "Four C's" Coverage - It needs to cover the entire work surface. Overlapping the sides by 3" is ideal if you do high heat cooking. CFM- Air flow Capacity - If you flipped the hood upside down, how much water would it hold before overfilling? The more the better. Closeness - Ideally a hood is 27-30" off the cooking surface. I've seen multi-million dollar homes have a 48-60" pro range located on the island and a thin glass style hood 36" off the cooking surface. That is going to vent dick regardless of the CFM's. There is also knowing how to use a vent system. Lot of people turn them once there is smoke/odor in the house. You've already lost the battle. If I'm going to stir fry, before I even turn a burner on, I get the hood going and crack a window an inch for make up air. I have 25,000 btu burners, 600 CFM, proper coverage and I can cook anything and not have an odor in the house. Lastly, where does the manufacture measure their air flow? Right out of the top you might have 600CFM, but once you had a duct transition, few 90* bends, 15' of duct length and a poor roof cap, you might have half of that. Damn, I use to nerd out on this stuff. This is the condensed version haha. I worked for www.ventahood.com as an outside sales rep / tech guy who'd go out to homes and help design ventilation systems for people. edited to remove quotes
I must say i went tankless in a closed loop system with a timer that only circulates in the morning and evening and im really in love with it.
I'm lucky enough that all my hot water runs are super close so no recirc is required. 10s max for any faucet to get hot.
Yeah my tankless is in the garage a good ways from the master. I also have some smaller electrics in the restrooms at my office.
LoooooL....I live on the 3rd story of a brick townhouse building. It's also a "Historical Landmark", so literally NOTHING has changed from the early 70's. I turn my shower on, go make coffee, and come back at 5:20 am. By 5:30 it's usually warm. I think everyone else on this side of my building thinks our water is great, but I just did all the work for them.
So I got my music studio painted and ready to set up. Today I was installing the wall hangers for my guitars/basses, and I had measured the studs and marked them where I was gonna mouth the hangers. One on stud, it seemed double-wide, and when I went to drill the pilot holes, the top hole seemed to hit a hard spot and the bit just squeaked without going deeper. On the lower hole - no stud. So since it was double-wide, I tried to mount it just a little bit farther left. This time, both holes caused the drill to stop and just squeak without penetrating. I stopped because my first reaction was “metal.” So I moved to a different stud, and mounted it there. But I’m just curious what it might be, because it’s an outer wall of the basement, and there’s no light switches or outlets near these studs, no reason it would be any gas/water pipes. Maybe a metal brace between studs? I don’t know. EDIT: the only thing I can think is that it might be some furring strips. I mean…the hangers are up and aside from having to do some spackling and repainting, the job is done. It’s just funny that now that I own the fucking place, I’m concerned. At the houses I rented, I didn’t give two shits when I was drilling holes in the wall.
I'd be tempted to cut a small square out of the wall and take a look at it. It could be a nail protector for some electrical that is running to some other room... same for water.
wouldn’t a nail protector make the stud finder magnet go wild? As it is, I can tell two things - what I would call the stud is twice as wide as most studs (I can see the outline against the drywall) and I can also visually see nearly every nail on the one side of it, verified with the stud finder. Makes me think it’s where two pieces of drywall meet. Also it is an exterior wall - I know it’s cinder block behind the drywall and studs. Yes, if I really need to find out I should cut a hole. But the list of things that must be done has a lot before that…I just got the occasional OCD about things.
Don't know dude... hard to say, which is why I say "go look". I've found that most stud finders are absolute shit, and makes me wish for some sort of high-end imaging system instead of some bullshit cryptic arrow system. For all I know, it might be a metal post for structure that is ponied up beside studs. Or you've got a shit drill bit. What are you drilling through? Drywall? I know in older houses they tended to just drywall over shit like panelling, etc, so it might affect the stud finder.
Yeah, I gave up on the super high-tech stud finders. A flat little plastic thing holding a magnet is what I go to. Definitely appreciate your help, just figuring how much I really must know the answer. The hangers are up and nothing in the wall is hissing or leaking, so perhaps I’ll get to it later on.
Yeah, I HAD to know what was back there, so when I reno'd my home office, I went digging and got a really good idea what was back there all around the room, and then video taped and measured/recorded it for future info. There were some spots I really opened up because the contractor that was hired to do the work really fucked shit over and took some serious short cuts. Too crazy for me to rip apart and fix, but knowing how it was all laid out (cables/electrical going at 45° through joists, no rhyme or reason), means I can take that into account moving forward when I mount shit to the wall. Oh yeah... looking at this pic, you might have hit some ducting that was hidden in the wall. My stud finder didn't mention that worth shit. For all you know, you very well may have drilled/screwed through some ductwork. That would be fun.
You said this is an exterior wall in the basement? My money is on furring strips over a cinder block/concrete wall