I'm still digging wood out with chisels but am starting to refine this Winchester stock some. I did a good job fitting it to my dimensions and when I shoulder it with the scope on, my eyes are dead on the crosshairs. I also expect it to kick less because of the cast-off and shoulder fit. Right now my challenge is how to detail the cheekpiece and grip. I have to consider how it will affect the checkering pattern later too because I want to do one that wraps around the top of the grip. One thing is certain... it won't be very light. It's just over 8 lbs. scoped as-is. Spoiler If I keep it up at this pace I may just get it done in time for November's deer season. This thing will be my ultimate deer slayer... something I have lusted after for years.
Carving carving carving. Spoiler Now the cheekpiece and shadow line extending into the grip are looking sorta good... but there is still much work left to do. Spoiler
Haven't posted in a bit, I've been bitten by the .22 rifle bug and have been spending (wasting) some time building that. Anyways, I ordered up a blue gun to expand on some of the holsters I can offer and just got this one done. It's a Glock 26 on Mahogany colored leather. The pictures don't really capture the color of the leather, but it's a nice deep reddish brown. I like this color combination and wanted to try something that looked like it belonged in the professional dress category and not so tactical. Glock 26, 27, 33 Hybrid Holster by Jacam2002, on Flickr Enjoy. J
Woo Hoo! My first Double Post! I was asked for more info on the .22. If anyone else is interested: Custom 10/22 by Jacam2002, on Flickr It started as a ruger 10/22 and has had a little facelift. It now sports a Fajen synthetic stock, Clerk .920 floated barrel, polished internals, stoned 3# trigger and Kidd black bolt. It still needs bedding and a couple of other tweaks, namely a better scope than the Centerpoint that is on it. So far it's averaging around a .65 group at 50 yards (off of the bipod and a rear bag), and that is mainly because if me. It "should" shoot around MOA to slightly sub. J
I know nothing about holsters so here's my question: That holster looks extremely form-fitting. How do you get it to be that form-fitting and snug while still being able to maintain a smooth draw?
Trakiel: It's kind of hard to explain without you having one in your hand, but I'll give it a shot. Background info: The kydex is heated and then pressed to the shape of the gun that you're molding, but, it does not cover the the gun completely, only about 3/4 of the width. If you look at the photo you will see where there is a gap between the kydex and the leather. There are three points of retention on this particular gun: Around the trigger, the ejection port and the slide lock indent. These indents are not form fit to the exact shape, there is some wiggle room built in. Once the gun is inserted, you can adjust via the 4 screws how tightly the gun is held in place by tightening to decrease the amount of space between the kydex and the leather or loosening to expand. The kydex is raised on rubber standoff's that create the separation. So, as the gun is inserted the leather flexes a little and allows the gun to "snap" into the form fit kydex. I'm not sure you can see from the picture you quoted, but the kydex does not wrap all the way around the trigger guard, its just to cover the trigger, so there is nothing to inhibit the upward pull. The Draw: When the gun is drawn it is pulled out of the indents and then is free to move out of the holster. One of the snags that people encounter is that the ejection port and/or in this case the slide lock is molded too tightly or the face is tightened too much and the gun never comes out of the holster. I hope this makes sense. Let me know if it doesn't. J
I could put simple screw-in swivel studs on this Winchester stock, but since I'm already doing a ton of extra work I'll use fancy inletted swivel studs. I robbed these from a project stock I screwed up and also decided to inlet them completely by hand versus the usual method of drilling with a little chisel work. It took me two nights' work (about six hours total) from start to finish. Spoiler It's a pretty simple task when you break it down. Measure and mark where you want them to be, temporarily superglue them in place, and mark around the edge. Then, get to work. Once they are inletted to depth, drill for the stud screws and align the screw heads while you're at it. Then file and sand everything together so the metal studs are curved and flush with the stock surface. Same goes for the rear stud. Deer opener is November 3rd, and I may have just enough time to get this thing "shootable" in time. A whitetail won't care if it is partially finished and the metal is unpolished, but it does need to be properly bedded and the wood sealed before I'll even think about taking it in the woods with me.
Yep, it's gonna happen. I got it all re-assembled yesterday to be 100% certain before I start finish sanding and I am very very happy with it.
I hear ya on that. I've successfully killed deer with my Remington 870 Wingmaster (and the 30" barrel with rifled slugs) but vastly prefer my .270. Once I have a little more pocket change, I'm buying one of these and rebuilding it to look like a big-bore African DG rifle. Savage Model 220, bolt action 20 gauge. The one downside is how butt ugly it looks (my opinion). Replace the tupperware with a custom English style stock, new bottom metal, add a banded front sight and quarter-rib rear sight, and you're looking at one sexy deerslayer.
A guy here in my office uses that 20ga Savage bolt action with the Remington Accu-Tip slugs. His kid took down a nice buck last year at 200 yards with it. Guys are typically zeroing at 150 depending on the max range they're able to shoot, of course. Something to keep in mind.
My cousin uses a 20 ga. NEF Ultra Slug Hunter (single shot) and it is incredible. We sighted it in at 100 yards a few years ago and it shoots honest 2-3" groups with Lightfield slugs. Here's a little preview of what my current custom will look like finished... Spoiler
Re: Re: Guns and Ammo Thread My dad bought me the NEF 20 gauge for my 14th birthday, I can hit the middle of a milk jug all day long at 150 yards with that thing. Heavy duty barrel on those Ultras, use Winchester shells in mine. Although when I got mine they were called H and R firearms.
I bedded the 'ol Winchester stock a couple of nights ago and this was the result right after popping the barreled action out of the stock (no cleanup yet). I think it could be one of my best bedding jobs yet, although the proof will be on the paper (targets) when I sight the gun in tonight.
Life is too short to hunt with an ugly gun. No bucks in sight this weekend, but at least the rifle was great to carry all weekend. I'm rarely this happy with a project at this point with it. Time to sand out all of the tiniest of tiny imperfections, touch up edges and shadow lines, and get 'er ready for checkering. I have the checkering pattern laid out in my mind, I just have to put it on paper. I also have a shit ton of metal polishing to do and then I'm gonna try rust bluing for the first time.
First snow of the season means a range trip is required. Yugoslavian M57 7.62x25mm made in 1964 and looks like it was never issued. It shoots nicely to point-of-aim at 10yds, and drops 6-7" at 25yds. 63-year-old Bulgarian ammo has functioned surprisingly well, considering 192/800 had split necks/shoulders. Interestingly, of the 150 or so intact cartridges I have fired, not one of the recovered cases split.
Welp, I did it. I succumbed to peer pressure, and bought an AR lower yesterday. Gonna start building slowly, watching for sales on LPK's and stuff. If you guys see a super fine deal, feel free to let me know...