I could not figure out for the life of my why my 300 wsm was shooting right all of the sudden, for the last 8 years it was pretty much on the money. I came home from the range and bore sited it with a fricken laser beam and went back to the range, first shot was 2 inches high at 100 then it started going right again so I adjusted it and thought I was on and I was good for my hunt. Yesterday I went back to the range and it shot 1 inch right at 100 so I made some more adjustment and went out to 200 yards and it started shooting high I could hit the 24 inch plate at 300 still but something was wrong. Sure enough the back scope ring mount that is secured by 2 screws was loose and with the looseness had jacked the ring up, thankfully it was only a $23.00 luepold ring and Sportmans Wharehouse had it in stock. Went back out this morning to re-re-resight the rifle in at I think I will be ok, this is at 200 yards 300wsm 180 grain projectile of death, it will drop another 2 inches at 300. Lesson learned, check the fucking mount screws.
Re: Re: Guns and Ammo Thread Thanks for the reminder... I corrected my post. Red is for re-barreling.
Re: Re: Guns and Ammo Thread Red is high/permanent, you need lots of heat and strength to get it undone. Blue is medium strength. You can get it undone but it can be tough. Purple is low strength for bolts/screws up to 1/4". You might want to use that instead of blue. (Loctite 222)
I woke up early this morning and couldn't fall back asleep, so I found myself in front of my workbench and went to work fitting a steel buttplate to a new stock. Spoiler Black and white is still cool, right?
Trying something different here... previously every fore-end tip I've done is a chunk of ebony attached perpendicular and square to the bore-line. Thanks to some curing checks (cracks) in an otherwise great chunk of wood, I'm eliminating them by cutting in a wedge-shaped fore-end tip. This is very 1950-60's era American stuff and I am mixing in some very old English and modern American styling into the stock, so it'll be an interesting but overall "classic" stock. Spoiler With some mineral spirits swabbed on to show color and figure. The nice wavy figure runs the entire length of the stock. Good, bad, or ugly? We'll see once I start trimming and shaving down the fore-end to shape- it has a lot of excess material that needs to go, not mention having square sides now.
This is the wedge tip after some trimming and profiling: Spoiler See how wavy that grain is? That will translate to some seriously deep figure when I'm done finishing this stick of firewood. I like it so far, especially how the seam between the walnut and ebony goes- I think the contrast between the curve along the side and the sharp angle at the bottom looks cool. Now how the hell do I finish shaping it while preserving that look? We'll see.
I like it, the contrast in colors of wood works really well and so does the shape. I would prefer that over the black paint I see on some rifles. Why do they do that, I fucking hate that look.
Thanks much! There will always be cheap/tasteless firearms for those willing to pay for them. Of course ugly guns kill things just like classy guns, but life is too short to hunt with an ugly gun. Speaking of class and taste, there is a BRNO Mauser 98/22 for sale around here that I am severely tempted to buy. I have always wanted a clean, unmolested military Mauser to turn into a classic old-school custom. I want it so bad!
That would be one of 10,000 the Turkish Republic ordered in 1927 after buying up all the retired Czechoslovak Army Vz.98/22s. If you're going to use the receiver for a custom build, then before you buy it you'll definitely want to check it for pitting below the woodline; both my ex-Turk 98/22s have cosmetic pitting where the stock trapped moisture against the metal. These rifles were used hard for 30+ years before being replaced with M1 Garands. For that price you could probably get a stripped M98 receiver off Gunbroker or something.
Thanks for the bit of history on the gun. I told the seller I'd need to see the barreled action out of the stock before I buy it and last night he said the rear takedown screw was stuck. Not a great sign, but not the worst. I suppose I could scour the internet for a stripped VZ-24, or better yet a 1909 Argentine or G33/40 (hell a commercial action like an FN would be fine too) but this BRNO has the appeal of avoiding online sellers and FFL transactions- and it'd be a nice pair to my CZ 452. This is what I'd like to eventually end up with... Spoiler A pre-war era British or Germanic style sporter, set up for iron sights only and chambered in something on the bigger end or smaller, like 9.3x62 or 6.5x55. I'm tallying up the cost of what I want to build and am near $2,500, so maybe spending a few more bucks on a nice action makes sense in the grand scheme. The only parts I want is an unmolested receiver and matching bolt. Un-drilled for scope mounts is important to me. British Style: <a class="postlink" href="http://hallowellco.com/london_guns%20mauser%20585%20nyati.htm" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;">http://hallowellco.com/london_guns%20ma ... 0nyati.htm</a> (note: .585 Nyati? Holy shit) German Style: <a class="postlink" href="http://www.gunsinternational.com/Mauser-original-Oberndorf-Sporting-Rifle.cfm?gun_id=100408861" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;">http://www.gunsinternational.com/Mauser ... =100408861</a>
It's unlikely that the bolt in that Vz.98/22 matches the receiver. Neither of mine do, although they are correct Czech-made bolts. I don't think Mannlicher stocks look right on any barrel longer than 20". I like the English look with the short fore-end, and the sling loop on a barrel band rather than screwed into the fore-end. Like these J.Rigby and Husqvarna sporting rifles. The Husqvarna is described as being 9.3x62mm.
Just went to my local gun store. He's selling the New Glock 42 for $469. Is that where they're going to sell? He's got two to take to a show this weekend, and I bet he could sell them both for $550 each. Nobody else has any yet around here. It looks and feels like Glock's do, but I think I actually like the fit in my hand more than my 26. Right now, I prefer my Mustang in .380, but I was tempted to buy one. Anybody else interested in these?
I got a pretty good offer for a 1916 Amberg Gew.98 action today, so I might just take that route but haven't seen photos yet. Both it and the Vz.98/22 could be rough for all I know. I agree full-stocked rifles should have shorter barrels. If I don't make one for the Mauser, I will for my CZ 452. I just have to do it at some point. Both of those Mauser rifles have elements I'd want in mine, and they look awesome too. I'd like to know more about the Rigby. It seems a proper English rifle requires a lot of extra metalwork like the banded swivel stud, banded or island front and rear sights, etc. Fun stuff I want to learn how to do. There's a few necessary stock details like the short fore-end, open grip with steep grip cap angle, and pancake cheekpiece. I've learned a good way to determine the fore-end length is with the Golden Ratio. It worked here: Spoiler An English style stock, based on a pattern based on 1910-era WJ Jeffrey stock. The barrel is 22" long, and the fore-end 8.5" long.
Sold. Can't wait to pick it up. Spoiler Made in 1916, refurbished in 1920, and beautiful today at 98 years old.
I picked up both Mausers this weekend and got the Brno 98/22 out of the stock pretty easily. Here are some quick cell phone pics of the two: There's some pitting on the 98/22 but it doesn't look too bad, and the Amberg Gew.98 is in great shape. I can do a lot with this pair.