Yeah, I'll admit that, but some things just shouldn't be done. It's kind of like saying "All jokes aside, Ted Bundy was a pretty sharp dude." While technically correct, what he did was wrong on every level. Much like that Camaro.
No shit. Even though I've owned a first gen Camaro, I'm not a huge fan boy of them. I prefer Mopars. That said....that car is blasphemy. What is that? The back half of a '75 Can Am mated to the roof? Why would anyone think that was a good idea? I only hope that in some point in that car's life a tree fell on it or something and the builder just said "Fuck it....what do I have lying around?" I hate to think they chopped up a solid car to create....that.
It's right up there with the type of modifications one would do to a house like baby proof bumpers for countertops.
I've got an oil leak, and I was pretty sure it was the gasket for the oil pan. But, I had a shop take a look for me to confirm. (Yes. Also, at oil pump bypass) Anyway, while they were looking, apparently they took off this cover (the round hole, with the gear showing) and didn't put it back. I'm not sure what I'm looking at there. Monday, I will check with the shop, but if I have to order a replacement, what do I look up? I can't find a diagram, because that's right where section details change, and I don't know what to search. Spoiler: Big Pic Chevy Silverado, 2004, 4.8 L Vortec, 4wd, automatic.
If I had to guess and aren't too buzzed, I think that's just the flywheel ring gear that the starter motor engages. It's not a big deal to have it open like that. Beware, I'm not a mechanic, I just pretend to be one on the internets.
I think you're right. And at least right about it not being that big of a deal. It's not a gasketed cover anyway, and I had seen it when I was looking under there before I took it to the shop. It's obviously an inspection hole, but, at 360k miles, she doesn't need any extra road grit next to moving parts.
If it's any consolation, the one on my Jeep was pretty open to the elements and it never had any problems.
On my phone so hard to tell. But that gear looks like the fly wheel so it would be the transmission bell housing. But if the shop fucked up they should pay.
That's a inspection hole, the plate that covers it snaps in and might as well be made from a beer can, you can order a new one but leaving it open isn't going to hurt it. If you get a new one you'll see what I am talking about, flimsy as hell. Should be GM part #24205900, at least it was when I was still at the dealer.
Guys, thanks so much. I have a pretty good relationship with this shop. They have been good working with me - telling me what's up so I can fix something myself, if possible. So, they would fix it for me, if one of their guys left it off. I just want to be able to speak to the manager with some intelligence about what it is.
Yea, but there is a lot of tuners that do stuff like that. I don't have any love for Dodge, but the hellcat and demon are factory. http://www.undergroundracing.com/vehicles.html If I ever won the lotto.
I just picked my car up to the tune of $550 worth of front end brake work. Holy shit but, I actually have brakes now. pads, calipers and rotors
What kind of car? Do you know what brand of brake parts they used? Anyway, I've been talking about an engine swap that I've been working on for the last month or two, and I know that a few of y'all are probably curious. I'd be willing to bet that most of y'all thought that I was doing an LS swap on my Trans Am, but you'd be wrong (some day, though). No, the vehicle is my dad's (now mine) 2007 Mercury Grand Marquis. Really. I swapped out the beautifully running 4.6L V8 for a 5.4L V8 that I rebuilt years ago and never ended up using. Why would I do such a thing? Well, there are a couple of reasons: 1) Because I can, 2) That car needs more power; I really like driving it, but it needs more power. Here's the breakdown of my build: Shortblock is a stock 5.4 rebuilt with Federal Mogul NPI pistons (compression is 9.9:1, I cc'd everything, even the piston dish installed in the block); PI heads ported by me, PI intake with Professional Products (TM) Chinese adapter plates, Comp XE268H cams with factory gears, factory exhaust manifolds, and Crown Victoria Police Interceptor (CVPI) dual exhaust, CVPI high-stall converter. I've been driving it for the past two weeks, and it's running good, with no leaks and (miraculously) no Check Engine codes. I'm still running the 70 mm MAF, and 65 mm throttle body; I'm getting it tuned as soon as I get a larger throttle body and MAF from a Police Interceptor. Oil pressure at idle is about 40 psi, 80+ at all other times. On the outset, this seems like an easy swap: The 2V 4.6 & 5.4 share all the same sensors, mounts, transmission bell-housing bolt pattern, etc., with one MAJOR caveat: the deck height is raised on the 5.4, thereby raising the height of the engine as installed in the vehicle. This makes things a VERY tight fit. You can't even take the valve covers off of this thing without removing it from the car. Here's the engine installed in the car. I haven't put the hood on yet, because that's how I roll, bitches (whenever I put a new engine in a vehicle, I drive it for at least a couple of days to make sure that there is nothing wrong, that way I don't have to take the hood off twice.). Note the gap between the alternator and the upper support bracket. I need to weld a couple of pieces of tubing onto the bracket to bridge that gap. The adapter plates are necessary to put the 4.6 intake manifold on the 5.4 block, which has a taller deck height. Spoiler Here's how I lengthened the EGR tube. I used a piece of steel conduit, and initially I tried MIG welding it, but I burned through and couldn't patch it, so I brazed it together with brass. (I've never been good at brazing, can you tell? But at least it doesn't leak.) Spoiler I'm running an Autometer mechanical oil pressure gauge on this car now, and here's how I placed the oil line for it. I don't like having the line bent around like that, but I was thinking about how I would get a wrench on it if I ever had to replace it. Spoiler Remember how I said that I was using factory exhaust manifolds? Well it turns out that the driver's side manifold (on my car, at least) has a hideous ridge next to the outlet. It's got to be a huge restriction, so I ground it down with a die-grinder and a carbide burr. There is only one company that makes a header for this kind of swap that is even a remote fit, Stainless Works, and even then, you have to cut the flanges off the header and remove some tubing. Also, the headers are about $1,200. I needed this car back on the road, pronto. Maybe some day. 1) Exhaust manifold outlet, with casting restriction Spoiler
Exhaust manifold, after porting: Spoiler I had to break off this tab on the windshield washer motor housing to get the fuel rail to clear. Spoiler There are a couple of caveats that I want to add about the Chinese adapter plates: 1) I STRONGLY recommend that you port-match them to your cylinder heads. 2) I had trouble installing the PI intake on the spacers once they were on the engine. These spacers don't have any dowel pin holes, so when you install them, so they were not perfectly lined up. I used silicone on all of the coolant ports on this engine, and I had torqued the spacers down and let the silicone set before I put on the intake manifold. The next day when I tried to put the intake manifold on, all of the bolt holes on one side lined up, but there were a few on the other side that would not line up, not matter how I tried to move the intake. In the end, I had to break the seal on the spacers, clean off the dried silicone, re-apply it, and hand-tighten the intake bolts on the spacer WHILE the spacers were loose. Then I tightened the spacers, then the manifold. 3) You CANNOT use the factory PI intake manifold bolts with these spacers. They are too long, and they bottom out against the cylinder head before they even begin to put pressure on the gasket. When I was torquing the intake down, the first couple of bolts didn't feel right, so I used a piece of wire to feel how deep the holes were, and the factory bolts were now too long. You can either grind about 5 mm off of each bolt, or get new ones like I did. If anyone has any questions about what/why I did things the way I did, ask them here, message me, or read through the thread on these swaps on Crownvic.net: http://www.crownvic.net/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=3600058&page=1
Well. The folks at Jeep are going to be offering a 2018 Hellcat model called the Trackhawk. Yep, a blown 707 horse Hemi in a Jeep, from the factory.
Probably with the same "not to be used offroad" limitation as the SRT Grand Cherokee. I'd still love one.