My '14 GMC has had 2 recalls on the 4x4 low-speed programming, but no issues that you'd notice or feel. I towed that huge trailer over snow-covered mountains last year and it did just fine, even towing in low-end 4x4 mode. Figured if anything would have caused it to show some wear and tear, that would have, and it didn't.
And here is some eye bleach for everyone http://www.motortrend.com/news/2019-chevrolet-corvette-zr1-by-the-numbers/ I just had some much blood flow to my loins that I got lightheaded.
Same. But I am going to catch alot of shit for this the guy that put it together did a hell of a job.
Not from me... I totally get where you're coming from. The two things are not mutually exclusive... there appears to be some pretty solid craftsmanship buried in that there turd.
I'm kind of disappointed that they didn't use the 4-valve LT5 that they had been teasing us with for the past year, but it looks good just the same.
Interesting. I like that they're keeping it OHV (so far). It bucks against the norm that you have to have DOHC to make any power. Also impatiently waiting on what the Nurburgring's times are. See if it takes the record from Porsche's GT2 RS
So I have to tap out new threads for a bolt holding on a pully mount. As it's my first time doing this I figured Id get some advice. This is the original bolt: M8X105 Im guessing the M8 stands for 8mm? I was going to try cleaning it out with a tap the same size or do you just have to go up a size if the threads have been stripped out? Before I go up in size I figured I might get a longer version of the bolt, like 115, to see if the threads catch deeper (this make sense?). What would be the next size up that would go with it? I found this M10X105.
8mm x 105mm yes the next size up would be 10m x 105mm. But you can get helicoil kits to fix the thread.
8 = nominal diameter, in mm M = metric size ? 105 = length, in mm Usually there is a pitch number to go with the M8 part... like M8-1.0x105, where the 1.0 means 1 mm between threads. If you have the original bolt, then you can just lay the tap on the bolt and the gaps in the thread on the tap should line up with the the threads on the bolt exactly. You can try to clean it out and see how it goes... or you can just tap it to a bigger size. Seeing as it's just a pulley mount that shouldn't matter. I'd be tempted to just clean it out, use some loctite blue, then mark the bolt with a paint pen. (Draw a line from the top of the bolt, off of the bolt, and onto the surface that it's mounted to). This way you can easily visually inspect the bolt to see if it's backed off or loosened at all, because the line won't be continuous any more. We used to do that all the time on the race cars because it made inspecting (or nut-and-bolting) the car much easier and quicker... saved you from having to throw a torque wrench on every bolt. If the bolt holds without any noticeable play, and the bolt doesn't back off after a bit of use, then I'd say you're good to go. Just keep an eye on it for a bit until you're comfortable that it's not just taking its time on coming undone. If it does show signs of not holding or backing off, then just tap it to the next size up. Be aware, I'm no mechanic, and you get what you pay for when you solicit advice on an internet forum.
McMaster-Carr is the undisputed leader in industrial supplies. Their catalogs contain a huge wealth of information, and it's all online now. Screws explained: https://www.mcmaster.com/#about-machine-screws/=1aa339r
This is on e-bay. Not terribly exciting. Now look at the back wheels. Taken from the eBay listing: “The engine is an all-aluminum twin-turbo 402ci dry-sump small-block built by Duttweller Performance Ventura CA. Only the best components were used: Brodix block/heads Comp roller-cam forged crank/rods CP pistons twin Precision Turbos and Big Stuff3 EFI. This engine dynoed at 954 BHP on pump gas.” Yikes! That's got to be some fun!
I really, really, REALLY want to see a pic of that engine compartment. If Project Binky has taught me nothing, it's that shoe-horning that engine in there is nothing short of magic.
"Comes with the original drive train and a lifetime supply of u-joints." EVERYTHING about that car had to have been upgraded to properly handle that... transmission, drive line, brakes, even the suspension. I'd love to see a video of that thing driven in anger... but then I notice that there's no roll cage. I'm both intrigued and terrified.
Wow. This would be amazing if they can actually bring the technology to market. Fisker patents car battery with 500-mile range on a minute’s charge