What did I tell you about Rock Auto? Oh, and unless yours are bad and making noise, I don't think you need new U joints. I've still got the originals in my Firebird.
There's some clunking going on back there when I shift and on more then one occasion multiple clunks with each turn of the driveshaft (Like something binding up) at low speed. I figure it's more the rear control arm bushings (Being replaced this coming week), but I have a feeling that after 100K and then sitting for a year in a salty, moist environment the U-joints probably aren't exactly 100%. I think the clunking is most likely a combination of the separate parts nearing failure, so I might as well replace them all just to be sure.
Nah, I don't have anywhere to do it. I know the noise and symptoms of failing u-joints though and that's why I'm pretty certain it's a combination of the bushings and the u-joints. Outside possibility is maybe the sway bar bushings and end links going out and causing the sway bar to bind up a bit, but I kind of doubt it (I'm going to replace all those too, just because I may as well.) I'm just kind of doing a refresh on the car of the wear parts to prevent something catastrophic from happening. I figure if I take care of the nickel and dime stuff now it'll protect the dollar stuff down the road.
Oh, if that's the case, you may be right. A worn U joint will make a ticking noise at low speeds, but a binding joint can make different noises like pops and groans. Funny story: one time a guy brought in a Chevy Silverado 2500 to replace all of the bearings in the rear axle; he knew that they were the cause of the noise he was hearing. $500+ dollars later, he still had the noise. It was a binding u joint. Wah wah wah...
Crap. Jinxed it. Reduced Power Message returned. Since I've replaced everything, either the computer is fucked, or I gotta check that ground wire behind the motor.
Just do it, and know that I told you so when it starts running normally again. The repair that I saw made was just a 10 gauge wire with a heat-shrink connector on it, and they ran it to the front of the cylinder head instead of the rear. I feel so stupid for not doing it myself.
I should have said a gotta check it, again. Because I called myself checking after you told me the first time. I don't even know what it does. Can I just add another ground wire from the front of the cylinder head to the frame or the ground block without fucking with the back? I can't see for shit behind the motor, and damn if I can reach whatever it is I'm feeling for anyway.
Just cut that wire off, don't even fuck with unbolting it. Crimp on a new 10 gauge wire with a 3/8" ring terminal and bolt it to the front of the head. Easy, peasy, Japanesey.
So my best friend just opened up his new shop. Started in his garage about 10 years ago: Just moved into his new space and is about to have his open house:
Does he sell cars, or does he just work on/modify them? By the way, that shop is beautiful. It's like my dream garage.
He fixes high end sports cars and builds racy engines. Specializes in older Porches that the modern dealers don’t want to. He just moved out of a 4k square foot shop into this one. Amazing guy, 100% in it for the customer. Solid work ethic, zero compromise, just does what is fair and right. He’s put 2 other shops out of business. Grew his client base by word of mouth. Word of mouth so far-reaching that Singer is wanting to work with him and flew him down to a couple of events.
Man, do I dig that shop. The things I could do.... New mirror (Painted correctly), new rear control arm bushings and u-joints are all on. All the clunks are gone from the rear end, Next up, front upper and lower control arms, sway bar bushings, and end links and my suspension should be set. Then I'll probably have the radiator replaced....I just don't think it's flowing correctly...I've never seen a car run as hot as this one...like 250 degrees or so in traffic w/o running the a/c. That just can't be right.
Have you actually looked at the radiator? I had a truck running hot and then realized that the rad had a bunch of shit on the outside of it that was blocking airflow... a light hosing off and holy shit it actually cooled stuff again. Might be worth the 30 second visual inspection before going to the hassle...
That's actually a really good idea. I hadn't thought about it, but in a year of sitting there's all sorts of crap that could've built up in the cooling fins. Now I just need to figure out if I can actually get to the radiator with a high pressure hose...there's really not a lot of room to maneuver around, front or back,
You might want to not use a high pressure hose... those rad fins can be a bit delicate, and if you hit them too hard they can bend over and block airflow. I used an open hose (no pressure nozzle) and a light brush to help clean mine, and it worked pretty well.
From what I've read, 4th gen's have 2 fans.....a low speed one that kicks on at about 210 and a high speed one that kicks on around 235-240...which seems ridiculously high to me. I would think the first one should come on about 180 and the second around 210, by the time the engine is in the 240 range it's damn near to late to do much cooling, especially if the ambient temperature is over 100 and the vehicle design already has inherently poor air flow. I'll have to check and see if it's possible to lower the trigger point of the fans.
I *think* some of the programmers will allow you to change the trigger levels for the fans. I know the newer cars do but not 100% sure about that Gen
Are you seriously running it that hot?! If so, you're asking for trouble. When a car gets to 240, I shut it down. Yes, there's a good chance your radiator is clogged; the mid to late '90s were when GM was using that shitty formula of Dexcool that would turn into mud and eat through heater cores. Make sure that your fans are coming on. Open the hood and turn on the air conditioner; they should come on. Yes, GM set these cars to run really hot. Almost every LT1 F body I've ever seen showed signs of excessive engine temperatures. GM did this for emissions reasons, NOT engine longevity. Even the most basic tuners will let you lower the fan temps. On last thing for now: inspect your front air dam. Its the big plastic flap that hangs down from your lower radiator support. It directs air up into the radiator, and it is a vital part of the cooling system on these cars. If it's broken, cracked or missing, replace it. EDIT: About fans: Starting in the early '90s, GM didn't use a high and low fan, it used a three relay setup to run both fans at the same time for more even temperatures across the radiator. The low speed runs both fans in series, thus at half power. Then when conditions require it, the high speed relay comes on, and they run at full power. Ask if you have any questions about that. Fun fact: this is how I'm going to wire the fans on Jungle Julia's car.
Is there a large advantage to doing it that way? In my LSx Nova I have two fans with a shroud* that runs one fan when it's warm and kicks on the 2nd fan when if it runs hot. That seems to be the standard way most people run them. Probably a lot easier to wire. *similar to this but an older design without the fancy alum cage around the fans and hence WAY less money http://www.entropyrad.com/1962-1967-nova-chevy-ii-lsx-conversion-aluminum-radiator.html