If Toytoy wanted to swap an LS, he'd need a new K-member, engine mounts, and of course, wiring/ pcm, and have to make some exhaust modifications. And transmission; the bellhousing and clutch setup are totally different*. He can keep his radiator; in fact, the LT1 radiator has a thicker core than an LS1, and it fits up the same! It's a fairly common upgrade in the 4th gen community. Lots of guys have done the LT1-to-LS1 swap, but I don't really think it's worth the hassle if you've already got an LT1. If you go back to my original post on this subject, I recommended that he keep his shitty Optispark setup, because that is the easiest option for the time-being; he has to keep driving this car, and doesn't have the time for it to be laid-up for a few weeks while some shop works out all of the inevitable kinks of the EFI Live setup. Think about it like this: I'm doing an LS swap on Jungle Julia's car because I think it's the best option, but it's not the easiest, AND we don't need the car right away. If we DID need the car right away, I'd just replace parts as needed. Toytoy, just get a new AC Delco distributor (and all new seals!) and keep on truckin' for the next 100K miles. *I've mentioned before that at one point, I was planning to do an LT1 swap on my Trans Am. The main reason I didn't was because of some of the odd-ball parts that GM used with those engines, and one of them was the infamous "Pull clutch" that they used on the LT1 F-Bodies. They've got this weird flywheel that is ONLY used for that application (not cheap), whereas with an LS, I could use a truck flywheel (not many manual LS trucks, though). That, the Optispark, and the overabundance of cheap LS engines made me abandon the LT1. Not that it's a bad engine, but if you're starting from scratch, the LS is the best option.
Some of you may think me mad, but I've gotten another LS truck wiring harness stripped down... Soon y'all will see the method to my madness... Spoiler
How the fuck do you get a stuck wheel hub/bearing out? I have tried everything, i have sprayed it with penetrating oil and swung a 20lb sledge. I have trying putting one bolt almost all the way back in and pushing from the back by using a socket and extension and turning the wheel.
Depends on what it looks like... Heat/cold and a big fucking hammer to loosen it up, then use a puller, or a press if able, or a cut-off wheel on a grinder...
Well nothing worked, guess i am going to have to take the spindle off, and either hammer it out or take it to a machine shop and get them to press it out.
I am assuming you've tried using the steering knuckle as a hydraulic press? (you have to say that part in "announcer voice" like in the video. I changed both of mine assemblies last fall. Front left was a motherfucker to get off. Front right came off so easy, I thought something was wrong . . .
Yup tried that. It isn't like this is my 02 Civic, this is my wifes 2013 explorer. Would of not thought that it would of been this hard. I know i have a shot wheel bearing, and i am 99 percent sure that it was the one i am trying to change, but if not it has to be changed now.
That is the inside of the knuckle where the bearing sits. It looks like it is 20+ years old not 7. I also have to get a tierod end and a lower control arm because that was rusty as well and i stripped the stud's on both trying to get the nut off.
I got my car back from it's tune up today. Reason #3198 there's not many left on the road: Total cost (With a synthetic oil change) $1500. I could've gotten it cheaper, but I went to the dealer....I'm familiar with the head mechanic (Who is the one who did the work)....he restores cars to show condition and is very meticulous...just the type I want working on my car. I made it 5 miles before it threw a CEI at me. I was pretty sure it was a vacuum line and a quick scan showed that was the case. I told them to shine it on until I bring it in next week....they did have some good news for me. The oil leak isn't the rear main, it's the oil sending unit in the pan, so I'm getting that addressed while I'm here. I'm probably going to have them check out the front end and figure out why it won't stay in alignment. But, for the next week I'm going to have to stare at the CEI, which is going to drive me bananas.
Here's some more wiring porn to give some of y'all nightmares: Spoiler 1) New fuse box I added that only controls the engine, transmission, and fans 2) Electronic throttle-body shit that I don't want to deal with right now; its going under the dashboard. 3) PCM connector One. Mostly connected. Also going under the dashboard. 4) PCM connector Two. Mostly connected. Also going under the dashboard. 5) Special attachment I made to monitor transmission line-pressure. Ask me if you want details. 6) Transmission range-sensor connector. Going on transmission. 7) Firewall and windshield wiper motor connectors 8) Main transmission electrical connector. Going on transmission.
Took the Camaro on a drive through twisties I used to go on when I felt like spirited driving in my RX7 and 300ZX. Oh dear. Even with the rebuilt suspension and Bilsteins, it was underwhelming. In retrospect, I probably shouldn't have went through the turns in 6th gear. I should've dropped into 4th and used the engine to pull it through the corners, but the car just didn't instill the confidence my old cars did. Maybe I'm just getting old and don't feel like pushing as hard as I used to, I don't know. Anyways, I was disappointed. It was like slaloming an oil tanker. So...I ordered an SLP front tower brace. I imagine sub frame connectors and bigger sway bars are in the near future. I'll probably hate myself later for doing this to my daily driver (That I have to drive 1200 miles back to Vegas in), but damn, she needs to be a bit more solid in the corners.
I'm fearing that I'm in the same boat. Haven't driven the Nova near as much as I thought I would have. The "cool factor" only goes so far these days compared to when I was younger.