It should, but not always... especially on an OBD-I car. On three separate occasions I've had o2 sensors malfunction without throwing a code. Same thing with a MAF and ignition coils.
Could also be a catalytic converter starting to plug up. If you let your car idle, does the exhaust smell like rotten eggs?
Hoping you guys can help me out. I've got an 02 Nissan Pathfinder and when I started it up today it immediately revs to 2800 - 3000 RPM and stays there when in Park. When I put it into Drive it drops to about 1500 but it will accelerate to 25 - 30 RPM with out me even touching the gas. It's never done this before and it has been cold here. Haven't been able to find an explination anywhere on Google, but I'd like to have an idea what I could be in for when I take it in.
Sounds like your idle air controller is stuck in the open position. This is a pretty easy do it your self job. The part should be around $100. It is pretty easy to find on most vehicles. If you follow your intake from your air filter to the manifold there should be a hose that splits from the main air duct to a small device with a 2 or 3 wire electrical connection. Something like this. Good luck.
I'll give that a shot. Any guesses as to what this stuck valve is called? My mechanic told me over the phone that may be the case as I never lose oil around town, just at highway speeds. I forgot what he told me so I haven't been able to google it and get more info on it.
It could be weak or broken valve spring or if the valves are seriously gummed up it could cause this issue. Easiest way to check is to pop the plastic valve cover and take a look. I've only ever messed with old Toyota F motors and some turbo 4s from the Alltrac MR2 era so I can't give you an estimate for how long it'll take to get this done. If it's your first time messing with an engine I suggest taking some photos of the engine bay even if its just with a camera phone for reference.
This goes for anyone that wants to do anything to their car, and doesn't have much/any experience. Go to the auto parts store, and pick up a service manual for your specific car. Haynes and Chilton both make good ones. If you don't have someone there that knows what they're doing, having step by step instructions with pictures is a big help. The manuals will walk you through a lot of different common repairs and troubleshooting.
Got off even lighter. Got ahold of a cousin who used to work service at a Nissan dealership, had me check the throttle cables first. One was pretty gunked up, a little carb cleaner on a rag cleared it right up. Fingers crossed, but I drove all day with no issues.
An '02 with throttle cables? That shit isn't electronic? Weird... The only vehicle I have with throttle cables is my '84.
I could be calling it by the wrong name, which wouldn't surprise me, but there are two cables running across the top of the engine that appear to be related to the issue I was having. One was sticking and once I cleared the gunk that was keeping it from moving freely the issue went away.
There is really no benefit in using pure nitrogen in passenger car tires. It's a gimmick for tire shops to make a little extra money. The reasons they use are overstated for passenger tires. If it's free, go ahead and do it, but never, ever, pay extra for it. I am an engineer with both tire and nitrogen generator experience. I've worked for two tire manufacturers and I've used both liquid nitrogen and nitrogen generators. The only reason nitrogen is used at all in so many industrial applications is that in the process to remove water vapor from air the other gases, mainly oxygen, are also removed. It has little to do with the properties of nitrogen vs. oxygen. Remember that air is already 78% nitrogen. The reason that water needs to be removed from aircraft tires is that those tires see temperatures of -40F and then a few minutes later have to immediately support the weight of an aircraft landing at 150-180 mph. Those tires heat up very fast, and with those temperature extremes, it would be impossible to guarantee the tire would have the correct pressure in it to support the aircraft if there were water vapor in the air used to inflate it. If the tire is underinflated, it will overheat quickly and likely fail during landing. Nobody wants to see that happen. Race cars also use nitrogen for the same reason. The pressures are tightly controlled for optimum handling, and they see similar temperature differences. The tires are stored at ambient temperature then after they are changed during a pit stop they immediately are run at race speeds, 180 - 220 mph, depending on the series. It's the immediate temperature extremes that makes removing the water vapor necessary. Your car tires never see those types of extremes, so it can't benefit from ultra-dry air. Truck tires and aircraft tires that are retreaded a number of times can benefit from nitrogen inflation because the rubber in the carcass will last longer, but passenger car tires are replaced because the tread is worn out. You'll replace your tires long before you will see any benefits from nitrogen inflation. You should be checking your pressure way before you'd see a difference between nitrogen and air too.
What he said. I work for a company that is involved in making the nitrogen generators, and even we know there's no reason to use it in passenger car tires. Hell, most people can't even keep their tires at the right pressure, regardless of what they're filled with.
Bugatti Veyron traded for ZR1 Honestly, the last paragraph really says it all (especially the linked article that describes the maintenance costs).
The best part of the story is that the guy put over 20k miles on the car in two years or so. That's fucking awesome. I love it when people actually drive their expensive-as-shit toys. I've only ever seen one Veyron on the road in real life (Rt 95N in Virginia near DC). Looked like a spaceship and I was pissed that the guy was in the slow lane doing 5mph under the speed limit.
The main reason we use it in race cars is to limit the pressure differential from cold tires (on pit out on a fresh tire change) to hot (a couple of laps later), and to keep that pressure increase as predictable and minimal as possible. We set the cold pressures at a value that, based on our testing, will max out at the desired hot temp. We want to set that cold pressure as high as we can, otherwise we experience too much tire flex which can result in reduced handling performance or (worst case) a failure before the tire gets up to operating temps. Water, when it vapourizes, expands to 40 times it's volume (as a gas, compared to when it's liquid). We usually purge our tires multiple times with Nitrogen to remove as much O2 as we can, to minimize the amount of moisture in the air, which decreases the volume increase of the air as the tire/wheel heats up. Personally, I do use nitrogen on my trailer and truck tires, as it lessens the difference between hot/cold tires. (I've measured the differences, so know it does it). But I'm also dealing with a 20,000 lbs triple axle trailer, etc. Normal people driving their daily drivers would not really see a noticeable benefit.
If anyone in the Midwest or anyone that will be in the vicinity of Michigan wants to attend this tour of the collection along with a drive and lunch with the Ferrari Club of America on Mar. 27, just PM me for details. My group spans imports like WRX and Genesis Coupes to F430, Ford GT and Carrera GT. Do not feel intimidated in any way, just a group of flat-out car nuts.
Not sure if you've already made your purchase and this comes too late, but we have an 08 Nissan Rogue SL AWD, with the premium package. We like it very much, and I wouldn't hesitate to recommend it to someone else. It handles well for a cute-ute, the AWD makes short work of snow covered roads (with proper tires, of course), and the CVT transmission makes the most of the 170 HP while returning some impressive mileage. In the summer, 70% highway and 30% city, we generally see 8L/100 km (29 mpg). On long, highway-only trips, I've gone as low as 7.2L/100 km (33 mpg) and seen just shy of 700 km on one tank. As of 08 they were still built in Japan and ours has been 100% reliable so far. As for the downsides... The towing capacity is only 1000 lbs, 1500 lbs if you have the shift paddles. Could be limiting if you plan on towing a larger camper. Some people don't like CVT transmissions, specifically the "motorboating" where the engine RPM remains constant even as the vehicle is accelerating. I was afraid that since our daily drivers are both 6-speed manuals, I was going to find this especially irritating. I have found that the vast majority of the time, the CVT behaves like a conventional automatic and doesn't bother me at all. The only time I encounter motorboating is while passing other cars. Upon flooring it the engine revs will jump to 5000 RPM, climb to 6000 RPM (redline) while accelerating, and then just sit there. You're still accelerating since the CVT is adjusting the ratios, but if you drive manual everything inside you is screaming: "Shift! Shift!". Finally, don't get the premium package just for the paddles unless you need the extra 500 lbs of towing capacity. The paddles allow you to manually control the CVT and make it act like a 6-speed transmission. In theory, it sounds fun. In reality, the car is faster if you just leave it in D and let the transmission do its thing. I played with them a bit at first, but now I just use them for engine braking. I didn't cross shop the CX7 at the time, so I don't know too much about them. I believe they are generally well reviewed. If fuel economy is important however, I'd stay away from the 2.3L turbo motor. Its hard on gas, and requires premium fuel.
So this is kind of a ready-fire-aim question, but since I imagine many of the mechanics here are familiar with torque wrenches, what do you think of the Utica TS-35? It's very likely that I'll get one in the near future and I've only had reviews from people who use them with firearms. Actually, I'll be doing the same thing- it'll be for accurately torquing down action screws and scope rings/bases. The TS-35 measures from 6-36 ft-lbs in 1 lb. increments, which is exactly what I need. I would, however, like to hear of any things I should know about these particular torque screwdriver.
Some motherfucker drilled a screw directly into the middle of my tire tread. This thing was a 1" by 1/4 inch hex screw with washer. Who the hell would have it out for me enough to go through the effort of doing something like that? Fuck. I see a new set of tires in my future...that means $1000-1200 out the window. Anyone recommend any other temp fixes? I have a plug in now with some fix-a-flat sprayed in there. Gonna go get a patch on the inside on tomorrow.