If it will start (albeit shortly) with starting fluid, then spark IS NOT your problem. If you're getting fuel to the carburetor, then the carburetor is your problem. You have two choices: 1) Remove carb, and replace it with a remanufactured unit, or 2) Remove it, and take it to a shop that can rebuild it for you. You need to find some old shop on the East side of town, with a bunch of dead classic Detroit cars in the back lot, and an old guy sitting in front on a rocking chair. Option 2 is my recommendation.
Yeah, I'm no pro, but I agree with Dixie. I'd also be sure to replace the fuel filter, as it can flow, enough to look like it's working, but sometimes not enough to keep shit running when it's old and has shit in it.
Average price for a replacement unit is gonna be around 400-450 if you buy it online, find a carb shop and have them rebuild it.
Fuck me. I had the purge solenoid replaced again yesterday. The symptoms the car was showing were too similar to before and I didn't fully trust the first one I bought...I got cheap and bought an open box one. I also had them replace the idle air, because why not? What could it hurt? This is how it could hurt: They gave me my car back and it tried to idle at 500 and died. I told them "Fix it." They took it back in and gave it back trying to idle at 600. I turned on the a/c, revved it, and it died. I told them again "Fix it." They fucked around some more and gave it back with the engine warm and it was idling at about 700. I thought, well maybe the computer is learning the new IAC and drove off. When I turn on the a/c the idle drops to about 550. When I start it cold, it dies and won't idle. Once it warms up a bit it'll idle at about 700 with the a/c off. The car is supposed to idle in the 800-900 range with a manual. My question is: How do you fuck up installing an IAC? Maybe not properly cleaning the area around it? Or maybe I somehow got a bad one? It's ACDelco from Rock Auto. Whatever it is, the car is damn near undriveable. Shifting gears the revs drop hard down to about 600, which makes for some rough shifts. It should maintain some revs when shifting, not drop down like a rock without any throttle input. At least I'm pretty sure the solenoid was the initial problem, the car is pulling hard like it used to. I should've stopped at replacing just that.
I just found this for the LT1: Reset the IAC Position Depress accelerator slightly Start engine, then release accelerator pedal, run engine for 5 seconds Turn ignition "OFF" for ten seconds Restart engine and check for proper idle operation Perhaps this is the issue? The computer hasn't learned the new IAC yet? I'll give it a shot in the morning.
Well that did fuck all. I tried it with the engine cold and warm, I also tried running it at the desired (900) rpm, and nothing.
Toytoy, that is the correct procedure, at least according to the Mitchell Pro-Demand service manual. Have you tried putting the old IAC valve back on? Maybe it's defective. Before I stopped driving my Trans Am, I changed the IAC valve for an AC Delco unit, and the car had the opposite problem: it would rev up to about 1,200 rpm whenever I put it in neutral (mine was standard, too), but if you gave it enough time (30 seconds or so), it would settle down to 800-900 rpm. I tested EVERYTHING I could think of, and came up empty-handed. I never did try another valve. Try a parts-store valve and see if it makes a difference. If it doesn't, return it. Did you ever try spraying down the intake manifold mating surfaces and fuel injectors with starting fluid to see if that affects operation/ idle speed? Because you need to do that.
That crossed my mind while I was at the shop and told them to put the old one back on. Dude went through the song and dance that "We have to pay the mechanic and blah, blah, blah", I told him I don't care, put the old one back on, I'll pay for it. I have a feeling they pitched the old IAC, because they didn't put the old one back on like I asked and kept trying to salvage the situation. Any idea why the learning procedure may not have worked? Other then a defective IAC? Which kind of leads to a question of how often are ACDelco parts defective straight out of the box?
I feel your pain Toytoy. Chasing gremlins is the worst. I had a 1992 Eagle Talon (Same as the Mitsu Ecplise) AWD Turbo and that bastard fought me all the time. I had the usual mods done and it would run great and then 20 secs later run like shit. Took it to the shop probably a dozen times and they could never figure it out. Ironically, I ended up trading it in on a 1994 blue Z28 6 spd just like yours.
Speaking as an employee of my share of shops, yeah, they probably chucked it as soon as they took it off. No point in keeping a bad part around, unless it can be rebuilt. Did you try what this guy said? I know that he's kind of a dumbass, but every now and then he gets something right... https://www.theidiotboard.com/threads/the-automotive-thread.26/page-155#post-639519 Remember, all that the IAC is is a metered vacuum leak... If you already have vacuum leaks, then the PCM can only do so much to compensate.
Hallelujah! I took the car to a different shop yesterday. As I suspected, the previous shop somehow fucked up installing the IAC. I had them smoke test the lines....no leaks, clean the throttle body, and put another IAC on. It's running great! There's a little something that doesn't feel quite right, but I'm not going to even mess with it. It's run bad for about 2-3 months now, so I may be imagining whatever I think I'm feeling isn't quite right. I'm also having to relearn driving the car. Again. There's a huge difference between driving a manual with a fucked up idle and driving one that's idling like it should....ie....when I shift, the car will drop to about 2000 rpm by the time I'm letting out the clutch now, as opposed to the 600 or so it was dropping to. Anyways, the car is a joy to drive again. She pulls like a mule and gets right with the program when I blip the throttle. It's been a while.
just rolled into the shop in reddit makes me laugh sometimes https://www.reddit.com/r/Justrolled...tomer_kept_adding_air_because_the_tpms_light/
I was headed home tonight and I kept hearing a weird noise. My driver's window was down and it sounded like my car had picked up some new weird wind noise, except it was really intermittent. I turned down the stereo and it got louder, but I still couldn't figure out where it was coming from. Every now and then it would "Woosh, wooosh, woosh" again and leave me going "WTF"? After a mile or two of this, I finally looked over to my right and there was a beat up Dodge pick up revving his engine at me. It sounded like a rolling vacuum leak firing on 7 cylinders with a single exhaust. I'm not sure who I should feel sorry for: Him, for thinking he could actually give me a run. Or me, because he actually thought he could give my car a run.
You sure he was actually revving the engine, or was it such a POS that the engine was hunting that badly?
Well, I was doing 45 and he was beside me huffing, wheezing and the truck jerking like someone who didn't know how to drive a clutch trying to leave a stop light. So yeah, I'm pretty sure he was trying to goad me into going. Either that or he was having a seizure.
Heading home yesterday and my check engine light starts flashing and the traction control light comes on. I was only about a mile from the shop so I headed back. On the way back the downshifts were real abrupt and it was idling like shit. Get back to the shop and put the scanner on it and pulled four codes. ECM P0300 Engine misfire Transfer case module U0401-00 Invalid data from ECM Electronic Brake Module U0401 Invalid data from ECM Seat Memory Control Module B1325 Control Module Power Circuit U0078 Low speed CAN Bus off 2014 GMC Sierra. 6.2L, 4WD, 35k miles. Usually I'm not too spooked at CEL's but I thought it was going to die at the stop light it was running so rough.
P0300 is the check engine light - those U codes look like you have a module/data line fault - you can clear them and see if they reset - CAN bus problems on those trucks can be a pain in the ass sometimes. the misfire code is the priority, is it missing all the time now or just at idle? if your scanner has a misfire graph that will help point you in a direction if it’s missing on all cylinders or just a few
I cleared the codes but it still ran like shit so I just left it at the shop for now. It definitely felt like it was down on power so I'm assuming it was misfiring all the time, not just at idle.