Really it's only the end where startup / break-in is done that matters. That's where the results of day drinking usually rears its ugly head.
Oh, I didn't know he was day drinking and rebuilding - that'd I'd watch. I thought he was day drinking and commenting - which is just a guy day drinking.
I for one am always interested in auto repair. Especially if it involves big block mopars and ford's.
Yeah, was just day drinking and commenting. Finally got some nice weather out this way. But, I will be working on an alum 5.3L that will be going in the Nova in the next year or so. Vortech Ti blower, cam & E85 fuel should get me around 750-ish rwhp.
My mom called me today. She recently bought a low-mileage 2019 Subaru Outback to replace her wrecked car. She said her check engine light came on. I said, it's probably the gas cap, but if you're passing by my office, stop and I'll read the code. (It's never actually the gas cap.) I read the code first instead of checking the gas cap, and it was the EVAP code. It was her gas cap. Like, it wasn't tight, at all. Turn it until it clicks, mom.
At least you didn't have to remove the gas pump nozzle before tightening it... so yay for small things.
Damnit, I thought you would say something like that. I guess it was too hopeful that your stellar mechanic abilities would include being able to see internal engine parts from 1500 miles away and make any type of prediction.
I just wanna know how she managed to find a newish low mileage Subaru. Those are like unicorns around here. My 2004 CRV is showing it’s age and I have to decide whether to dump a bunch of money into it or just buy a new car. Somehow having this impending infant is making me want something nicer.
They actually had three at the local dealer at the time. Two Outbacks and a Forrester. But, the one she got had leather seats and a CD player, which was all she wanted.
Look, it's not like that stuff is just going to magically get better on its own. For the record, if you lived close to me, I'd work on those for free, just because I've always wanted a chance to work on jet-ski engines.
I wasn't cracking your mechanic skills. More cracking on myself for asking a stupid question. Indeed, how would you know what these engines need, having never seen them.
Oh, I know you weren't shitting on my skills. Asking someone in-the-know is a good sanity check. Ex: Automatic transmissions aren't my specialty. I WILL work on them for certain problems, but for the most part, I just send them off to a buddy of mine with a transmission shop. So lets say I get a car in, and once it gets to third gear, the RPM shoots up to 5k, the fluid is blacker than midnight in a mineshaft, and smells like a literal dumpster fire. I call up my buddy, ask if there's anything I can do, and he tells me: "That thing is fucked. As they say in Spanish, it is 'el fuckedo'." I already knew what his answer was going to be, but I just had to ask. Lastly, if you mail those engines to me, and pay shipping and whatever parts costs arise, I WILL work on them for free. That's probably not going to be very cost-effective to you, though, and I have no experience on jet-ski engines, but when you get down to it, a reciprocating piston engine is still an engine, and still uses the same principles.
In other news, I installed 4.10 axle gears on my truck (2013 F150, 5.0 V8); I figured they would really work well with the 5.0's powerband. Differential is a Ford 9.75" with a factory posi; it's basically Ford's copy of a Dana 60, right down to the ring gear size. Bad news: they're noisy, with a noticeable whine on deceleration. I've gotten two different answers on this: 1) The brand of gears I got (SVL- a Dana company) skip some machining steps, and often come out noisy. Normally, if I doing a Ford rear end, I get Ford Motorsports gears, but I could not find any ANYWHERE for this model of axle, so I settled on these. I figured that the Dana corporation putting their name on it was good enough. 2) A lot of people I've asked said that the pinion depth looks a little too deep, and I'm running the maximum amount of backlash (.012"). I'll be resetting the pinion depth soon, and as a necessity, resetting the backlash. Hopefully this quiets them down. If not, I'll have to get a different brand of gears. Spoiler Spoiler Drive side Spoiler Coast
Interesting. I ordered my new truck with a 4.10 rear end. Never thought of the chance they’d sound different.
The sound is not the effect of the ratio, it's the finish on the gears, and/ or the setup. I installed this exact same ratio on my '00 F150 with a 9.75" axle years ago, but I used higher quality Ford Motorsports gears, and they were quiet. All hypoid axle gears are SUPPOSED to be silent. That's why the gear teeth are cut at the angles they are. If the manufacturer doesn't cut them at the right angles, or if they are installed incorrectly, they can make noise. At this point, I don't know which is the case for me. You won't have any problems, though.
Is the cut the reason you can get "Noisy" or "Quiet" set ups when running timing gears? (Just to clarify, as opposed to a timing chain set up.)
That depends on whether you're using straight-cut/ "spur" gears (which will ALWAYS be noisy) or slanted "helical" gears. Spur gear teeth slam into each other, creating noise. Helical gears slide across each other, and provide much quieter operation. The downside is strength; spur gears are typically stronger. With that said, there can be many reasons why a timing gear set is quiet or noisy. You typically cannot change the backlash (clearance) on timing gears, so changes like new components, or alterations like milling of a cylinder head or align-boring an engine block will change the clearance between the gears, possibly resulting in more noise. Funny story: About a year ago, I had to change the water pump on a GMC Top-Kick medium duty truck with a Duramax diesel. The water pumps on those engines are gear-driven (silent, helical gears, by the way). I installed an aftermarket pump, and it had TERRIBLE gear whine. It turns out that the aftermarket pump had a drive gear about .020" larger than the factory piece, thus the noise. I installed a new pump from the dealer, and no more noise. Didn't see that one coming, but I won't forget it, either.