Here's an update on the Hemi: Putting it back together now.* Spoiler If you've ever wondered what these engines look like on the inside, here it is. Those electrical components you see (with those stupid red connectors that always break when you try to remove them!) are the MDS (Multi-Displacement System) solenoids that shut off half of the cylinders when power demands are low. And the special lifters that they use FUCK UP ALL THE TIME. That's why we're in this mess right now. Spoiler Here you can see a good shot of the Hemi rocker-arm assembly, the intakes of which go "backwards" from conventional designs. *It's owned by a trucker who's out of town most of the time, so he said no rush. It should be done tomorrow.
You going to delete the MDS? I helped with DoD delete on an LS once. All these fuel management features and hybrids are great, unless you want to get 200k miles out of a vehicle. I've got a prius in my yard now that the hybrid battery exploded in. Little over 200k on it. I just haven't fucked with it.
No, not deleting it. What I have heard from people who have driven MDS/ DOD/ AFM trucks is that the whole system is more trouble than it's worth; they don't really see any increase in mileage, because it only kicks in when the barest minimum of engine power is required... Which is NOT during acceleration or low speeds (city driving), and not when the engine is heavily loaded (any sort of towing or highway driving). It's just to make the fuel economy numbers look good on paper. I can go on and on about this, if you want.... I can also go on about how much I hate Ford's Ecoboost engines, and how Ford is basically doing the same thing with those, only in a different way.
I had the Cherokee with MDS and the ONLY time I ever saw a difference was when I was doing very long road trips on very flat highways. Even the slightest bit of acceleration required would then disable it.
Kind of like the skip shift on the T56? All that thing does is piss me off. I can only imagine the damage I'd do to the drive train if I allowed that thing to constantly throw me into 4th gear at 10 mph.
@toytoy88 - they should make a CAGS delete. If it's like my C5 was, it's super cheap and takes a few seconds to install. @dixie - shaft rockers? Man, I just don't know shit outside of the Chevy world. Regarding AFM on my GM truck, The tech didn't say that's why the lifter broke and cost me $2800, but also wouldn't say it wasn't the cause. However, my 2007 Classic Silverado 5.3 had 285hp IIRC and I averaged about 16mpg. My 2014 6.2 has 420hp and I average 18mpg. 50% more power and 2mpg better. AFM definitely works. Shitty part is that I can feel it switching back and forth and it drives me nuts. Thankfully the Corvette (6.2L) is a manual and therefore doesn't have AFM
My 2017 Titan is supposed to have 390hp. My dashboard says 16.7 mpg around my house, it was pretty accurate last time I compared with real world. I could get that up over 17, but it takes a ton of discipline and babying the shit out of it. I can get nearly 21 mpg on the interstate, in the coastal plains type elevations. I'm pretty sure I don't have any of those AFM type systems. I think if you look at from a resources perspective, over the life of a vehicle, I don't see the advantages of having failure-prone systems like AFM. Where's the break-even line fall between something that get 16.5mpg for 300k miles vs something that gets 18mpg but needs major repairs every 100k miles. And I'm talking about all resources; fuel, oils, raw materials and manufacturing of additional parts.
I need a bit of help. In my 05 f250 6.0l i am trying to figure out what the key positions are called. I can put in the key, turn it towards me once(glow plug?). Then i can turn it forward to where i can take my key out, then i can turn it forward(acc?), then i can turn it forward(i am assuming this one is run), then it turns forward for the start. I am going through diaganostic steps, When i turn the key backwards, forwards once nothing happens on the dash. When i turn it forwards twice the dash lights up like it should then i can turn it forward a 3rd time to start.
That sounds normal. I think the glow plugs actually come on in position 4, while the "wait to start" light is on.
Sweet, merciful crap, fuck my life. I'd put this in the Rant/ Rave thread, but it's car stuff, so you guys get to read it. Remember that Hemi I've been working on? I test drove it today, and now EVERY INTAKE VALVE AND PUSHROD IS BENT. Before you jump on the "Bandit obviously doesn't know how to align two dots" bandwagon, read below. This is really weird. Spoiler I got it started right before closing, Monday afternoon. Sounded good. I let it warm up completely, and shut it off. I was off Tuesday, nobody touched it. First thing this morning, I retightened the exhaust manifold bolts, started it up, and test drove it for about ten miles. Everything was good. Then a few blocks from the shop, I was pulling away from a stop sign, and the engine died. No noise, no fireworks, just dead. Towed it back to the shop, and I've got a "cam/ crank correlation error" code. (Side note: The starter chose this exact moment to crap-out. 180K mile original.) When I got a new starter on it, the engine was spinning really fast and would not start. I pulled a spark plug, put a compression gauge on it, and no compression. Pissed and confused, I took off the timing cover (in record time, too) and rechecked the timing marks: they were dead-nuts accurate. So I pulled a valve cover, and immediately saw that all of the intake pushrods were bent into boomerangs. I've got the driver side head off before closing today, and Number 1 cylinder is at TDC, and the cam timing marks are dead on, so there is no chance that the timing chain was installed incorrectly. This engine has MDS (Multiple Displacement System), and YES, all of the new lifters are installed in the correct locations. I reused the original timing chain tensioner, as it was still in good condition, and there is no damage to it. If the cam was so far out of time that it would bend the valves, it would never have started in the first place. The only thing I can think of is that the Variable Valve Timing phaser (camshaft sprocket) has some sort of problem, but it doesn't make any sense: if that phaser fails, it defaults to the fully advanced position, WHICH IS THE POSITION IT IS IN WHEN SETTING THE CAM TIMING. I really don't know what to think. The customer is pissed, my boss is pissed, and I'M pissed. I can post pictures, if y'all would like.
Ok, seem if you idiots can help me out. 05 F250 6.0L See fiveslide diagram. 2 posts ago. I am using alldata. When i turn the key into the accessory position i can use the wiper/power windows but nothing coming on in the dash and i can't here anything else turning on. I swear I remember other noises when it worked. When i turn the key into the off position absolutely nothing happens no dash no nothing. I swear i remember the dash lighting up when it worked. When i turn the key into the on position everything is like it should be. When i turn the key into the start position it starts and turns back to the on position. I have checked every fuse i can think of that says instrument cluster(f2.2 f2.30 f2.33 f2.35 f2.41) start/run/acc(f2.103 f2.110 f2.116) they are all good. I have disconnected the ignition switch and did the pin test to see if the ignition switch was getting all the voltage it was supposed to. The 4 pins the directions said to check(c250-7 c250-12 c250-2 c250-9) all had 12volts. I have changed the ignition switch, nothing different happened. You guys have any idea wtf is going on? Or am i going crazy and it is supposed to be like this.
So it starts and runs, like it should? Just gauges and noise makers don't work sometimes? Might be the guage cluster shorting somewhere. Friend of mine had an F350 that the cluster would work sometimes and sometimes not, even when driving. He eventually replaced it, but it never affected the way the truck ran.
That sucks, dude. Does that change any minds about the delete now? I'd like to see some pics. And, definitely interested in knowing the cause once you track it down.
Intake valves and rockers bent on both banks or just one side? If it's just one side, wonder if the shaft rocker assy seized somehow. Also, you figure out the ring gear issue?
Here's the pictures of the Hemi, WHICH VINDICATE EVERYTHING I DID. Spoiler Here's the engine with cylinder 1 at Top Dead Center. (Circled for clarity.) Spoiler Here is the cam timing mark, which is supposed to be at 12-O'clock, and between those two marked links (really, it doesn't have to be between these particular links, as long as it's at exactly 12-O'clock. If you turn the engine over two revolutions, the marks will have moved down the chain, but the mark on the gear should return to 12-O'clock. Spoiler Here is a service manual picture of what I'm talking about. Before anyone asks about the mark on the crank gear, it's impossible to see that with the oil pump installed, but the fact that cylinder one is at TDC is all you need to know. You would not have been able to get these marks to line up unless you had a severely worn timing set (which I would not have reused.). Spoiler On some of the Mopar forums I went to last night, people were questioning the timing chain tensioner. This picture proves that it is in good condition. Spoiler Last of all, here's the carnage. See how the intake valves (big ones) are open, even though there's nothing pressing them open? That shit ain't right... They're fucked. Or as they say in Spanish, "el fucked-o."
Okay, here's some more Hemi bullshit. Spoiler I removed the phaser (cam gear), and the dowel pin was sheared off. Spoiler This phaser had been torqued to 72 ft/lbs, as is the specification. Spoiler Next, I try to remove the cam - and it will only come out a few inches. After screwing around with it for awhile, I look into the lifter holes, and see that it has spun a cam bearing... In other news, I disassembled the phaser, and it doesn't show any signs of damage, and had no metal shavings in it. We're going to call it a loss and replace the engine. This is so fucked. I've done this same job on about five Silverados with Gen V LT engines that ate lifters, and never had a problem. Fucking Mopar.