I bought mine from carid.com. I wanted flat black and rhey had one if the better selections at the time. I bought them with tires already installed and they shipped to my door in 2013 for $3000-$3500 from what I recall. Photo for reference.
Aside from "black," what other qualities do you want from the wheels? $200 to swap tires is way too much.
Nothing really. It would have been a hassle to get Toyota to do it, and I'm just glad to have gotten the truck. To swap rims from old truck (and old tires) to new truck (and new tires) would have been $200, which I agree is a bit steep. It also might have invalidated the contract with the buyer for old truck. I'm thinking $1k installed for some basic-ass black 16" rims on the factory tires. I can wait until the current tires have an issue, I suppose.
I'd recommend 17" rims; tire choices for 16" and smaller are really drying up these days. All the manufacturers are going bigger. What size do you have now?
ok, for the gear-heads out here; 1999 toyota camry (V4, auto trans) roughly 150k in miles. I've noticed over the last 3 months that I get either "normal" idle on startup, or really finniky, IE I have to press the gas pedal to above 2k revs for about 2-3 min before it settles down, otherwise it sputters on idle, and dies. New issue: I've seen that when driving(in cooler temps) the acceleration, between 2-4k revs feels "jumpy". which means I'm watching the revs and the car slightly lurch forward, instead of the usual powerband. Timing chain got done @ 85k on this car, otherwise normal upkeep. Is this a transmission issue, or engine issue?
Idle issues Id check for vacuum leaks. Secondary air pump runs the first minute and a half and where the leak was when I had similar idle issues. Cleaning the idle control valve and gasket is a place to start too.
Some of the guys that know more than me can weigh in on this, but to me it sounds like engine, not transmission and it sounds like something just needs cleaning, since it's not an "all the time" thing. If it's not a cracked vacuum line, then maybe clean the IACV and MAF sensor? Has the CEL come on and do you have any codes? If it's over 20 years old and the CEL hasn't come on, I'd be impressed. OBD2 started in 1996, I think? So you should be able to get a code reader to help you out, if so.
Um yeah....CEL has been on for about 8+ years....would that also affect the slightly lurching acceleration, you think?
Got-dangit, Bobby... I haven't said anything yet, because the other guys have been giving good advice. I thought of asking if the CEL was on, but then thought "Nah, that's a stupid question. He would have said so if it was." FIND OUT WHAT THE CODES ARE* AND REPORT BACK. *Get a free scan at your local Auto parts store.
I'm a huge fan of Bluedriver for a phone/tablet based scanner. https://www.bluedriver.com/products/bluedriver-scan-tool
Also, if you're not doing a lot of work on your own vehicle or others, you don't have to go in on something like BlueDriver. You can get a cheap one off Amazon that connects to your smartphone via Bluetooth. The $15-20 is well worth it if you're going to drive an older vehicle. You can clear all the codes and turn that CEL off, too, once you fix the cause(s).
I think I paid $35-40 for my reader and it's been handy. Sometimes. As per usual on one hot summer day, my car started running way to rich and shuddering, then it threw the CEL on. I plugged in my reader anxious to see WTF the problem is since this has been an ongoing issue....and with baited breath I cycled through to get to my error code. I didn't get one, I got "Engine running rich." Bitch I already knew that. So yeah, it wasn't helpful that time. But, it is nice to have when my evap system occasionally throws a CEL (After I've replaced every damn component in the system), because I can hit a couple buttons and make it go away.
Hey, @dixiebandit69 , I'd like advice on how to tackle a project on my '88 Chevy truck. I definitely need ball joints, I know it won't pass a proper safety inspection. It probably shouldn't have passed the last two years, but I'm definitely getting nervous driving it now. I want the front end and suspension right for the next 33 years. It probably needs ALL suspension bushings, shocks, tie-rods, hub assemblies and CV axles. Would you buy assembled upper control arms and sway bar or the bushings separate and just rebuild the front end? I don't think I can get assembled lower control arms. I don't have the riveted ball joints so all the bushings would probably take the most effort. How hard is it to change all those bushings, do I need any special tools? I've done the rest before and know what to expect there.