What I'd do is buy an Energy Suspension or Prothane bushing kit, and install those on your existing control arms IF the control arms don't have any damage. You CAN install them yourself, with the right tools. I'd rent a master ball-joint press kit from Oreilly's/ Auto Zone/ etc. Just beware that after thirty years, they might not want to come out and may need "persuasion."* As far as ball joints and tie rods go, I'd go with either Moog or Mevotech; I used to ONLY recommend Moog, but in the last few years they have moved some of their operation to China, and I've seen some Moog parts fail before they should have. For the record, I have Moog parts on my cars. Mevotech is made in Canada, and they seem to make good parts in Canuckistan. For the record, NAPA's top of the line suspension parts are Mevotech. Get all of your parts off of Rockauto. EDIT: Forgot about the * When you inevitably come to a bushing that won't budge, hit the control arm with a sledge hammer, right on the section that is encompassing the bushing. Hit it like you're mad at it (which you may well be), and be sure that there is tension on the ball-joint press.
Thanks for all the tips. I been comparing price, Rockauto has awesome prices. Looks they are out of stock of the master bushing kits you recommend, any where else you would look? Or would you just order each bushing separately, in those brands?
Can you check over my cart, recommend any additions or upgrades? Recommend any additional bushings while I have it apart?
Do you need a whole new sway bar? Not just the end-links? This is the bushing kit I was thinking of: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ens-3-18101g/make/chevrolet/model/k2500/year/1988 Also, what about your pitman and idler arms? You've got a wheel hub for a light-duty 2500, and ball-joints for a heavy-duty 2500. Which is your truck? Send me a picture of the rear axle housing, and I can tell you.
It's the 6 lug, light duty 2500. No, i accidentally added the sway bar, the number purchased actually says zero, but it didn't remove from the cart. Good eye, I thought I added the 7200# ball joints. That's the kit rock auto is out of stock in. I'll get it from summit and drop the bushings from RA.
Too bad I sold my Silverado. I could've put this 1000HP motor in there. https://www.motortrend.com/news/chevrolet-performance-1000-hp-zz632-crate-engine/
First thing I'd do is take the valve covers and throw them in the trash. Find a set of 90's truck big block covers and slap 'em on. Tell people it's pumped up 454
I remember once doing a state inspection on a Winter Texan's towing rig, and I could tell right away when I floored the gas (as I was wont to do) that that WASN'T no stock 454 under the hood. I asked the guy what he'd done to it, and he said that he'd put in a 502 crate engine.
Anyone else think there's something fishy with that vid? Either gears and speedo aren't calibrated or maybe switched to KPH? (not sure if 4th gens had that capability like a C5 does)
It's not KPH, those are indicated on the speedo. As for the accuracy, there were people in the comments saying that the automatics when running WFO don't shift into 3rd until 95 as the video shows, so I have no idea. The acceleration after 120 is more than I would've expected, but I've never ran mine that high. I know my turbo Z31 was still climbing really fast at 120, so I guess it's possible.
This example is for a manual Z28, but it took C&D 26.6 sec to reach 130. They hit 130 in ~16 secs in the video. "Our Z28 lunged to 60 mph in 5.4 seconds, while the GT needed 6.1. By the 130-mph mark, the gap had ballooned with the Z28 reaching that speed in 26.6 seconds, versus 44.7 for the GT." And holy shit did I forget how slow Mustangs were back then.* https://www.caranddriver.com/review...vs-1994-chevrolet-camaro-z28-comparison-test/ I'm just skeptical when the 100-140 time is barely slower than the 60-100 time. Maybe he has mods. I don't think it says. *The new GT500 is no joke though. Buddy of mine has a 2017 Z06 with a few bolt ons. Runs mid 10's at 131. His brother just got a new GT500 and from 60-130 put a car length on him. Bone stock.
FYI, my snows for the Ram just got delayed... GoodYear is now pushing tire production back to Feb 2022. They were supposed to be delivered last week. Needless to say I switched my order to Cooper Snow Claws instead as they were actually in inventory, and everything shipped today. Just speaks to the lack of tire inventory that's out there right now. I actually bought 5 tires, 4 mounted on wheels, so that I'd have a spare in case I fuck something up this winter and blow one out.
I went from Toyo Open Country AT's to Cooper Discovery AT3's on my Xterra and the Coopers shit all over the Toyo's in every way. I think they're a very underrated tire.
Is this a good thing? I'm assuming yes, because I've heard nothing but great things... and these are the Winter Claws. They look fantastic.
Everything is getting bad. I give it 6 to 12 months before shit really starts fucked up. The local machine shop is having a hard time getting just steel. Right now i am having a hard time find industrial yellow/old cat yellow spray cans, i can find a few suppliers with a few cans but i normally buy 6 or 12 at a time. Bolts, Socket head 12.9 m20x110 and m24x130, my normally couple of hardware suppliers didn't have any. I found them, but that isn't something i ever had to go searching for.
I went with a set of Cooper Discovery AT3's when I couldn't find Bridgestone Dueler Revos. They weren't horrible, but I went back to the Bridgestone's when I needed a new set.