There is something physically blocking the key from turning all the way forward in every position except park. If this was just electrical, I'd bypass it; I'm going to (probably) lower the steering column tonight to see what I'm dealing with. I have looked through the Haynes manual I have, and searched the appropriate forums, and no one has made any mention of this; maybe something is broken/ malfunctioning? I'd have driven it to work today, but wouldn't you know it, a heater hose started leaking pretty badly while I was wrapping things up last night. I think I got the tuning as good as I'm going to get it with the factory computer programming; 750 rpm idle, base timing set at 12 degrees keeps the stalling away best. I still haven't driven it at highway speeds yet. Anyway, THIS showed up at work today. Can you tell me what's wrong with this picture? (This is a wheel hub, for the record.) Spoiler You might notice that the center of that spindle isn't quite in the center of the hub... Spoiler THAT'S BECAUSE THE OUTER BEARING WAS FUCKED BEYOND REPAIR! It seems that boy-genius took his truck to our competition down the road (which has a LOOOOONG history of fuckups... But they still get business...), and someone forgot to grease the outer bearing before installing it. This is all that was left. It overheated so badly that the inner race friction-welded onto the spindle. It's junk now. HERE'S THE FUN PART! That spindle is a Fabtech 7.5" lift spindle, costing $590. With the new rotor, bearings, labor, etc., this guy is looking at a $1,300 repair bill. He CANNOT drive the truck like this, he has to pay it. When stuff like this happens, I don't feel so bad about the $641 in parts I just paid for my hydrolocked engine. More on that later.
Friction welding is very cool... except when it's the byproduct of a severe fuckup. I take it you've got it now because the previous shop refused to own up to the problem and make it right?
The other shop is supposedly going to pay for all the parts; the labor is only going to be about $250; it's child's play, I can do it in less than an hour. Suburban update: After enough tinkering around, I decided to drive it to work this morning. Performance is VERY sluggish, but that should change with the new chip (waiting to hear back from the tuner). Spoiler: Diagnostic stuff Anyway, about halfway to work, I noticed that the truck was starting to lose speed, even though throttle input was remaining constant; giving it MORE throttle did nothing. I decided to pull into a parking lot to assess the situation, and once I got off the highway and the engine speed dropped, I started hearing a clattering. Oil pressure remained good, so I wasn't too worried; it sounded like a loose valve(s). I decided to turn around and head back home, but by this point power was VERY low, and the engine just kept clattering more. I made it about two miles before it finally died, and I coasted to the side of the road. I had been driving it with a vacuum gauge on the engine, and I noticed when cranking that there was a large spike in pressure periodically. This indicates that air is being pushed into the manifold by one of the pistons (instead of being sucked in). Typically when I see this, it's a broken valve spring. I tried calling Jungle Julia, but she was still asleep, so I messaged work that I would be late. I set to work taking off the valve covers. No broken springs, but one exhaust rocker arm nut had loosened up. This meant that instead of going out the exhaust, that piston was blowing exhaust gasses out of the intake valve, INTO the intake manifold, and confusing the MAP sensor horribly. I tightened it back down, put on the valve covers, and it started back up normally. I headed back home, but less than a couple of miles later, I could tell that the performance was degrading again, and as soon as I made it home, it died. The problem is that most of the studs on those heads were questionable, but I ran them anyway. The threads on that particular one aren't really reacting with the factory lock nut, so I'll need to get some polylocks soon. In the meantime, I'm going to do a ghetto fix and just tighten another nut on top of it, and try again on Monday.
The new 2022 Ford Maverick is a really low cost truck. (I mean, "truck" since it's not going to be hauling motor homes or big work trailers or anything.) Why don't they offer the 2.5L Hybrid in the AWD option? Is there something about the engine / transmission marriage or the regenerative braking that is not compatible?
Maybe there's a bunch of extra shit that gets in the way with the hybrid components? Don't know... just guessing, and know nothing about the truck itself.
Same. I was just curious. It's not like a big manly truck or anything. But to occasionally accomplish truck stuff, like hauling pinestraw or lumber stuff or bags or landscaping sand/mulch. Or if you just want a truck, it's a crazy low entry price. The hybrid is 42 mpg. When the market dipped at the start of pandemic in March 2020, I bought Ford stock. I'm so glad I did. They reasonable price for the 150 Lightning (compared to the Chevy version) and the other mass appeal stuff they're doing is going to keep them in a good place for awhile.
I bought a bunch of Ford stock back in 2008-ish when it was low $2.xx a share. Sold it when it spiked to $3.xx Idiot
Bad Obsession Motorsport released a video today, but it's not one of their typical build videos. Needless to say, I fucking loved it.
I can't think of an single example of bolting old car parts on new cars that turned out well. Including this one that's already up to $142k https://bringatrailer.com/listing/2018-chevrolet-k5-tahoe/
It didn't sell because the reserve wasn't freaking met?!?! Edit- Just occurred to me that he might've listed the reserve high knowing it wouldn't sell but getting a lot of exposure for his shop
Hey Nett! Did you know this guy? I'm pretty sure he's from the place you lived in BC. I'm not wild about the wheel size on the back, but with twin turbos he probably needs them to hook up. It's an amazing car.
Never heard of him... but holy fuck that car sounded amazing. I would love to hear it driven in anger.
I was look at Cobra kits, ran across one that obviously didn't have much thought put into its drive train. That shifter location would drive me insane. I know the difference doesn't look like much, but the first looks almost undrivable to me. And a proper, pro built kit...
My best friend is in the same financial boat as I am (he's the one that introduced me to the company and got me hired), and he's finally opened up the purse strings a bit and splurged on a toy for himself. (He's got a wife and 3 kids, a brother, and a mother that he's looking after, so is way, way more responsible with his cash than I am). Needless to say he spent 6 months looking for his high school dream car, and finally found it. It took 2 months for it to show up (it had to be imported from the States), but he's finally got it on the road with new rubber and all the paperwork. He's grinning from ear to ear, and the thing is MINT. Less than 40k miles on it, and it looks showroom new. Unbelievable.