That's one of my old dream cars also. Not so much today, but from the past. Now, if I got a Monte Carlo, I'd look for lower end model that I could gut and LS swap with a couple turbos. Lower it a bit and make a gnarly drift car with about a 1,000 hp. Something vicious to drive. I wouldn't want to do that to an SS, they really are turning into valuable classics.
I've always dug those but living in California, it's a no go for me. Getting harder and harder to smog that era of cars. Buddy of mine spent a a ton of money trying to make his '85 K5 smog and it was stock.
One reason I bought my first Porsche from San Diego was that it was deemed a "Gross Polluter" but CA and had huge penalties, etc attached to it. This was even after a specialty shop specifically detuned it to pass smog, only to re-tune it right after. Meanwhile, in Canada, it was just grandfathered in and didn't have to pass smog at all.
Fun fact: Tick Performance (who specializes in LS products) calls their line of cams "Polluters." Seriously, that's the brand name. Other fact: Everyone here knows I have a Firebird, but if I had to do it all over again, I'd probably get a G-Body like your friend's. Choices would go 1) Monte Carlo, 2) Regal/ GN, 3) Cutlass, 4) Grand Prix. I'm ranking those by styling, because they are all basically the same car. I love the way his car looks, but it looks too nice for me/ too nice to drive on the street. I'd need something a little more beat-up.
I told him that if he bought that thing and didn't drive it, like DRIVE IT, I'd disown him as a friend. As a result, he's driving it... and it's incredibly therapeutic for him, as he's going through a ton of shit at work. He's now said he's taking all of his Zoom calls from the car. He's laughing/giggling for the first time in months/years. I'm super happy for him, and I hope he drives the shit out of it.
More bitching about truck prices. One of the mechanical foremen has a 2014 F450 Lariat, he is trading it in they are giving him 70K, that wasn't much less then he paid for it.
A buddy has a 2016 F150 with 65k miles on it and he's getting $2,000 less than he paid new to trade it on a new Raptor.
My 2014 Sierra is pretty loaded and only has 51k on it. Thought about seeing what they'd give me for it towards a new Sierra but then I saw the next generation Sierra and it just shits all over the current generation so going to wait a bit. The heaviest stuff I tow is either the Nova or a 22' boat so a good half ton will work fine for me.
I don't know why you'd want to build on the DeLorean name? What are the benefits? I mean, it's a cool looking car in a movie, but in real life? I can't say I'm all excited over the concept... unless it's 100% Back To The Future branded.
The original sucked because it had an under powered engine. They slapped Porsche engines in them to get the movie work done with them. Millennials are getting to the age they have a lot more disposable income and die for nostalgia. If it’s not a complete shit box it could do very well.
I have to imagine this is a ploy to get bought out by Tesla. Right now, there are more electric cars in the pipeline than there is a market for, and said market is wildly unstable. Tesla is wildly over-valued. Eventually the market cap has to adjust to reality, unless they go on a spree and buy other companies.... Or it's a boutique shop kind of thing, and they might make 100 of them a year.
I think the DMC has been around since Delorean went bankrupt. They restore, rebuild, and modify Deloreans. I don't know how they make money. I assume it's all a drug front. But, everybody knows what a Delorean is, so name recognition?
An interesting little turn of events... I had to replace my battery yesterday, it was giving the clues of it's demise, as in the starter was dragging once the engine built up some heat and if the car sat for 18 hours or so. Here's where it gets interesting: My stereo had been only recognizing about 1/2 the songs from my iPod, instead of displaying the song title it would just display the storage address. I attributed that to my iPod being all kinds of fucked up (Leaving it in the car in the Vegas heat for 3 years, I'm surprised the thing works at all.) Anyways, it now displays the information correctly again. The odd thing is, that issue began when I was in Idaho two years ago. Also about two years ago (When I returned from Idaho) is when my car started having all sorts of issues in the hot weather (misfires, CEIs, etc...) I'm thinking that if the battery was slightly weakened (It was just over a year old at the time those issues started) was causing my stereo to misread information, it's a damn good possibility that the management systems in the car were similarly effected. I'll be happy as hell if this solves the entire mess, but also highly pissed that I spent so much money trying to track down the issue and it was as simple as a slightly deteriorated battery (That easily powered the car another two years.)
So the other rear wheel bearing went on the Wife's explorer. Spent 2 hours with a sledge hammer and a slide hammer. Wouldn't fucking budge at all. Took the knuckle out as you can see i couldn't block it too well to try with a sledge hammer. So i took it to a local machine shop. There just about maxed out there 60 or 80 tonne press getting the bearing out.
All right, I think i am fucked. Who has changed a rear toe link/trailing link on a 2013 explorer? Yes my vehicle is effect by the recall but the nearest dealer is 150km away and i have it up on jack stands right now(from change the above wheel bearing). The toe link broke when i was taking the bolt off the knuckle. Now i went to take out the bolt from the from frame, it loosened about 1/8 of an inch and now just spins. The above picture was taken from all data. I am trying to take out bolt(#3). Now the problem is that it spins and i have no way off getting to the other side of the bolt. It is in the frame and i can't see in there. There is a small opening put it is cover by another bracket and i can't get my finger in there. I am thinking that the welded nut broke off. How fucked am i?
It’s a captured nut usually tack welded in place, I’ve used hole saws in that situation, just big enough to get a socket in there. You’ve broken the tack weld, not really your fault, shit happens but the reality is you have to access it now to remove it. My vote would be a hole saw if you have the room.