Any trailer over 10,000lbs you need a special endorsement. There is one for equipment trailer and one for recreational trailers. Basically same as a drivers test, take a book study, do a test, do a road test. Supposed to be easy just time, which one of these days i have to get around to doing.
Yep. It’s also why I have to register my 3500 as a private vehicle exemption. By default it’s a commercial registration.
Interesting. Little more involved in California https://www.dmv.ca.gov/portal/driver-licenses-identification-cards/commercial-driver-licenses-cdl/
That is for a heavy endorsement for trailers for people without cdl(class 3 or class 1). I can with a regular drivers license and a heavy endorsement tow anything provided certain requirements are met. Class 5(normal) No more then 2 axles total Class 3(generally dump trucks) Can drive with more then 2 axles To drive trailers or towed vehicles exceeding 10,0000lbs provided the truck and trailers do not have air brakes Class 1(semi with trailers) So if we look at the new F450(2 axles, no air brakes) we just need the heavy trailer endorsement and there is no limit except the truck limit. New F450 can tow 40,000lbs all you need is a normal license with the endorsement. Which is roughly what a F650/F750 can tow.
Learn something new everyday. Thanks. I'm limited to what I can tow based on my wallet. Hence, my half ton truck.
Fun fact: Ford could have done this since the 6.7L Powerstroke's inception, but they didn't because of emissions, and "reasons. " Mechanically , the engine is pretty much the same as it was in 2011, it's just got a better turbo, injectors, and tuning. Cummins is perfectly capable of doing the same; I'm wondering what Dodge will offer next. Another fun fact: some of the fastest vehicles I've ever driven have been Powerstrokes. I'm talking 7k+ pound trucks that will SMOKE their 37" tires from a 30 mph roll.
The clutch has just started slipping in the wife's Honda Element. That part isn't too bad. It's the long list of crap I want to do while I have the engine and transmission out that has blown the costs up to where I think it is too much to put into the car. It's a 200k mile car, so I want to do timing chain amd everything associated with it. The input bearing has been noisy for a little while, so that needs replacement. The steering and suspension, I would want to replace that stuff while it's apart, control arm, struts, tie rods and sway bar ends. Wheel bearings. I put CV axles in it when we bought it, so I think I'd run those. $3-400 worth of parts to address the clutch and input bearing, $1750 to do everything I want. For a car that is probably $6000 all fixed up.
Rockauto. That's OEM grade parts for everything. Clutch set, fly wheel, full timing chain set, struts/shocks for all wheels, control arms, tie rods, sway bar ends, wheel bearings, engine belt transmission bearing set. Basically everything I would "want" to do while I've got it torn down. I if do it, I may drop some things off the list that can be done later without much work. But definitely want to do clutch, transmission and timing set all at once.
Monroe for the struts. mevotech, moog. Cloyes for the timing set. AMS for the clutch. LUK for the new flywheel. Transmission parts are USA Standard Gear, it's the complete bearing set. Continental for the belt.
Yeah, that's the same stuff I would have picked. Just have the flywheel resurfaced; shouldn't cost more than $50. If you/ your wife like the car, then hell yeah, spend the money. I've probably spent the same amount on my/ JJ's Suburban over the past year; latest project was 3.73 years and a posi (I need to make a post about that...). What else are you gonna do? Buy a new car?
I think the flywheel is only $58. Largest expenses are the four struts, followed by the transmission bearings, timing, then clutch kit.
She does love the car, even though she hardly ever drives because of her leg. I drive it when gas is high, like now. I like it more than I thought I would. If they started building the Element again, like this one, with the rubber floor and removable seats, I'd be at the dealership getting a new one. Great little cars.
I don't think 2xAnything will work the way those fold. Look closely at the pic of it folded, the back of the trailer folds over the front, whatever wood you use will need to be less than half the measurement between the frames when they are folded together. That gap doesn't look ~3.5" needed to accommodate two layers of 2x material. I think a an old friend in the navy used treated deck boards for his, but that was 12 years ago, so it's fuzzy. That should be plenty strong for your bike.
Yeah, I'm just going to do 3/4" plywood over the top of it, and mount something for the front tire with some removable bolts at the front. When I scrolled down to the comments/reviews (shudder), it made a bit more sense. It's hell being this dumb sometimes.
They're a great product. You can't beat the price. If you are going to tuck it next to a shed, I'd get a tarp to keep the rain off that plywood. Personally, if it was going to live outside, I wouldn't used a plywood to surface it.
What are my options instead of plywood? Judging by the comments, some of which may have actually read the manual, 3/4" is all you get and even that isn't ideal.