Maybe plywood is the best solution. I'd keep rain off of it as much as possible. Or pressure treated fence pickets come in 5/8".
Yeah, I saw that too. Back to the drawing board, it would seem. The current thinking is to use one of these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078RL5XJ2/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A347GK6YRL6XBR&psc=1 As lovely as it would be to have a trailer around for this (STUPID 5FT BED) sort of thing, this is shaping up to be a one-way trip. Any of y'all ever used one of these?
How much length do you need for the bike? I swore someone made a bed extension for those trucks specifically for motorcycles and/or snowmobiles.
Max. Length 81.2 in. (2065 mm) Max. Width 31.4 in. (800 mm) at the handlebar Dry weight is 407, but like....she ain't dry. I'm guessing 500 lbs to be on the safe side. It would make sense. There has to be some sort of ramp/rack for them? that would make a ton of sense to me. It's a 5 ft. bed, with the tailgate down, it's stupidly close.
What is the measurement from the center of the rear axle to furthest point forward on the front tire, the part of the front tire that would contact the front of the bed? As long as the bike will fit in a way that the back tire rests firmly on the tail gate, you should be fine. One strap to each handlebar and one through the back wheel to each side of the bed to keep it from rolling backwards, since you won't be able to close the tailgate. I've never had a bike that heavy. I would probably use some straps from the bed to the tailgate, so you don't break those little cables that supports the tailgate when it is down.
I've got the straps and all. I am trying to avoid removing my toolbox, and when I used my ramp as a comparison, I'm lacking about half a foot.
I can take it out, but....like, having the bike rigged up alongside it is something I'd like to avoid, as is driving 1000 miles without the tool box.
I know @Clutch mentioned the limited rated speed of the trailer. You could buy wheel/tire set that is rated for higher speeds. Find out from the manufacturer if the bearings are only rated for 40mph, those could be upgraded also.
https://www.harborfreight.com/truck-bed-extender-69650.html What I am thinking is a dolly, a sheet of plywood and that thing. The toolbox will have to ride alongside the bike, cushioned somehow from either thing falling. The bike sits on the dolly, ratchet strapped to the truck. The dolly sits on the plywood, and the far end of the plywood sits on the bed extender. The aristocrats. Or uhaul could just rent the best goddamned bike trailer known to man for an interstate jaunt. Ffs. The bed, tailgate down is 79", the bike is 81". The tool box has to ride parallel, and that's actually tricky, because it's something between 18"-24" at the top, and the whole bed is 41", minus fender flares. This is fucking painful.
I know they are more than they used to be but after a hail storm I found a hail damaged cargo trailer for around 2000-2500 and that was a 16' trailer, you wouldn't need one that big.
After seeing that bed extender, I am never going to get rid of my 2003 Sierra King Cab with the 6foot 6inch bed. Nothing is better than putting the motorcycle in the bed on a wheel chock and slamming the tailgate behind it.
God, wish I had kept my taco with the 6ft bed or waited to get the truck I wanted instead of settling for the 5ft bed. This is an incredibly stupid problem to have
Yep, took me 7 months to find a nice extended cab truck. Everything was quad/crew cab which has the shorty bed. Shitty fact, GMC does not offer the longer bed in any of their new, higher end models. Just base model "work" trucks.
I'm sorry... Anyway, GM VATS will usually allow the engine to start and run for about a second, then die when it gets tripped; I cannot tell you how many people have towed in their GM cars thinking it was a bad fuel pump. It SOUNDS like lack of adequate voltage, ie: bad or discharged battery. Low voltage will cause all kinds of weird shit to happen on modern cars. Let us know.