As the Haynes manuals say, "Installation is the reverse of the removal." While the system was open, I removed the condenser, pressure washed it, and replaced the desiccant element. Spoiler Spoiler You have to remove the upper radiator support to get the condenser out on these Fords. You just move it forward enough to maneuver the condenser out. Spoiler Here's the desicant element next to the new replacement. This is the third time I've opened the system on this truck, and I've never changed it. It goes inside the condenser on these trucks. Last of all, I refilled the system with new PAG 46 oil (adding a few ounces of oil to each component), pulled a vacuum on it for about two hours, then charged it with 24 OZ. of R134, and it was all good. Stay cool, my friends.
Accessing the bolts through the defroster vents - how would an idiot like me know to check that? Did you have the Haynes manual or similar, or did you just know from the other times you've done it? What about taking out the passenger airbag? Is that just a pry n pop removal? I know you don't have a clock spring issue, but other things I read - or maybe it was just the dealer not wanting me to save money - had me concerned about accidentally discharging the airbag. Is the bold part to test for leaks, and just that? Or is that a requirement before you can charge it? What's a rough cost range that that job would be at a non-dealer repair shop?
It removes moisture and other possible contaminants that can get in the system anytime it is opened up.
Lot of things like that have a "book time" which is what shops are supposed to charge by.* Average American truck dash is probably in the 7-8 hour range multiplied by whatever the shop hourly rate is. in my area, mechanic shops are in the $150-175 range. *that's how a fast mechanic can make good money. They get paid for 8 hours, even if it only takes them 4
One of the 3 main reasons I decided to get a new truck was an AC leak in the old one that they traced to the dash. It was going to be 2-3 days and at least $1800. Almost all of that was for time to take apart and reassemble the dash.
I saw another guy do this job years ago, so that's how I knew about the bolts. Airbags aren't really as scary as they are made out to be; you have to be trying pretty hard to discharge one. There are three small bolts holding the airbag in on these trucks, accessed through the glovebox. You must vacuum an AC system to get all foreign gasses and contaminants out. What I do is vacuum the system until I have 29" of mercury, then see if it can hold that for ten minutes or so. Then vacuum for AT LEAST 45 minutes. Longer doesn't hurt anything; my HVAC instructor in tech school told me that when he used to work on reefer units, he would leave the vacuum pump running overnight. This job probably would be about $500 at my old employer. I don't even want to think what a dealer service center would charge.
My dang Titan has developed a major oil leak. Luckily I caught it because I had to turn it around and hook up a trailer. If I'd just hopped in and left, it might have killed the engine. It looked like it leaked a quart out just turning around. Stay tuned as I figure out WTF happened.
Nissan problems, AMIRITE?! Seriously, though, for it to leak that amount in that short of time, it has to be oil under pressure. I would first check the oil filter and oil cooler assembly on the front lower part of the engine. Besides that, I'd have to actually look at it.
That's what I figure, too. I'm going crawl under it in the morning when it's cooler outside. I'll update then. Just glad I didn't drive it.
No, I'm due for an oil change, have the oil and filter in my floorboard. No recent work. I drove it about 400 miles day before yesterday. I noticed the trail of fluid after I turned it around, with no fluid trail from me returning from that road trip. Something messed up after I shut it down after that road trip.
Well, not an oil leak. Lots and lots of brake fluid. Nearly the entire contents of the brake fluid reservoir.
Split brake line would've probably been my last guess as the source of the fluid. 100% rust free truck, I never thought brake lines would be my first real "repair" at 122k miles. I made the oil leak guess without even looking under the truck, just based it on the way the fluid looked on our gravel driveway and road. When I crawled under to look, it was clear it was a rear brake line, above the fuel tank. Probably take the bed off today to access the area, rather than drop the fuel tank.
I have heard of that area on lots of vehicles have problems. Dirt and water get up there and stays there.
Dude, fuck that. Determine which line it is before/ after the fuel tank, and just run a new steel line through there. Easy, peasy, Japanesy.