2002. Another good manufacturer of go fast stuff for Saab is this guy here. <a class="postlink" href="http://www.jakstollperformance.com/t7.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;">http://www.jakstollperformance.com/t7.html</a> Once I hit 100k on the clock I'm probably going to drive mine down there and finish up my stage 3 build.
Well, my car died. I'm 98% sure it's the fuel pump. For the last month or so, my service engine light would pop on every once in a while when I'd get a bit low on gas, put gas in it, would be fine (yes, I'm an idiot for not getting it checked out). Talked to a couple people, they said it was probably the fuel filter with these symptoms. Would be on for a day, not come back on for a week, would pop on on the way to the store, be off when I left, etc. So I drove to the store, had to go back, so literally 2 minutes later, went to start it, it ran rough for about 2 seconds (which it never does), died, and wouldn't restart. I do hear the buzz like the fuel pump is trying to kick on & isn't... It's a Dodge Intrepid. Before I figure out where I'm taking it, does it sound like I'm on the right track?
You should not try and run below half tank of gas. All modern cars have the fuel pumps in the fuel tank, and they are cooled by the fuel itself. So if you are always running low on fuel, you are starving the fuel pump of its cooling ability. If you have the body style of the mid/late 90's, you have an external fuel filter, if you have a body style of the early '00, there is no fuel filter, it is on the body of the fuel pump module(only way to change it is to drop the tank and replace the whole module, roughly 400-500 bucks).
Just received a carbon fiber drive shaft for my Syclone. Weighs nothing and supports up to 1000hp. Whoa baby. AWD burnouts just around the corner.
So I am in need of an upgrade and I may have found a deal. I'm looking at a 1999 Mercedes ML 320 with 120K for $5500. I'm buying this to last me about another 4-5 years, I'll put about 20-25K miles a year on it. I want this because of the purported ability of a Mercedes to last 250K, a small-ish SUV that can tow a motorcycle if needed and that's more comfortable on longer road trips. The reviews I read online were not great, and I want to know whether or not I should take them with a serious grain of salt. Will this car feasibly last me that long, or will I have to spend what I paid for it in repairs every few months?
The Mercedes diesels last 250k+ easy. Their gas powered cars and SUVs from the late 90s-early 2000s not so much. Also pricey to fix. I'd look into a Jeep Cherokee Sport from 1999-2001 if you want something that will last and last and last for that price (and is an SUV). Not as flashy as the Benz but far less expensive to fix and you can literally resell Cherokees for what you pay for them if they're in good shape after you clock 50k extra miles on them.
The first generation of the ML like you're looking at had perhaps the worst reliability of any Mercedes ever built. That was the first Mercedes built in the U.S., and they had lots of problems. I would not recommend it at all. You will likely spend more than your purchase price in repairs if you try to put that many miles on it.
I'm looking for a new car and one I'm looking at is a 98 Lincoln Navigator. It has like 98k miles on it. Does anyone know anything about this car? How does it hold up? Is 98k miles way too much for a Navigator or does it have some life left in it?
Depends what it was used for. 1998 is right smack dab in the middle of the super-sized SUV era. It's basically a Ford Expedition with a fancy dress. Big issues are the rear suspension airbags, oil pan leaks, and the transmission. None are deal killers but I'm always suspicious on 12 year old vehicles that were daily drivers for someone else that might not have given a shit about maintenance since they've owned it. If it's a vehicle that size you're looking for I'd check out Tahoes and Suburbans since the platform has been around longer.
I sent Guy Fawkes a version of this via PM, but I realized a lot people on here know a lot about cars and might have some valuable input. I'm looking for an SUV that's good in the snow for about $5000-$7000. I'd like to keep the miles down, but I realize for this price, under 100,000 isn't going to be too common. I care most about having a comfortable interior as that's where I'll be spending a lot of my time. My priorities are: -good in snow -nice interior -has a few years left in it -reliability Any suggestions you have would be greatly appreciated.
2000(ish) Jeep Cherokee Sport/Classic. You can get a nice one for right smack dab in the middle of your price range and it'll last longer than you'll need it. 4.0L inline six lasts forever. Interior isn't that plush but it's comfy. Ridiculously good in the snow.
My car hit 100,000 miles a couple of weeks ago. Took a picture of it. Then I brought her to the shop only to find out that I needed new control arms and calipers (the car was wavering from side to side quite a bit and the e-brake stopped working some time ago). Total bill: $1700. Its aggravating that I have to spend that much on a 1997 Mercury Sable, but if you add the repair bill to the car's value ($2600 according to KBB) there isn't much that can beat it at that price range. Plus, the car has a flawless interior and the paint still shines, its got good brakes and new tires, and aftermarket speakers that work surprising well with the factory tweeters. I'm told that the 3.0 V6 is bulletproof, so maybe she is worth keeping for a couple of more years. Then I can get one of these: http://www.caranddriver.com/news/car/10q1/2012_ford_focus-first_look I realize its not a terribly impressive vehicle, but its a realistic dream car for someone who will be graduating from college in May in the midst of an economic downturn. Plus, I think its pretty damn sexy. End rant. Thanks for listening folks.
You're smart keeping your car, though the $1,700 bill would have made me think twice about keeping it. The 3.0L Ford motor has been around forever and used in nearly every midsized car platform they've made. One thing to start doing now that the motor is nice and broken in is to start using a quart of Marvel Mystery Oil in replacement of a quart of oil when you have the oil changed.
I've recently started looking into buying a new truck. I'm looking for a 07-09 full size pickup with a V8 and 4x4. The big ones of course, Dodge, Ford, GM, and from what I gather Toyota makes a pretty good one these days. I've driven both a 99 GMC and an 05 Dodge. At first glance I like the appearance of the Dodge, but they seem to also get the worst fuel economy. What's the verdict on this group of trucks?
Yea the 3.0L(U) is pretty much bullet proof. But it depends on which one you are talking about. There is the OHV engine code U, and DOHC engine code S. The U is the one you are probably talking about, which they used from about 20 years and stopped using around the 2008 year, the (S), was used for about 10 years, but i haven't heard or seen really any problems with that one either. I had a 1990 Taurus with the 3.0L(U), i had from 16-25, i absolutely loved that car. It was the most comfy car i have ever been in. It never owed me anything. I did the normal oil changes, and brakes when ever needed. But other then that, i only replaced one tail lamp bulb. It was great, we all know how 16 year old's drive there cars, i really cant believe it lasted that long with nothing going wrong with it. Only reason i got rid of it, it was getting old, and my parents gave me there 02 Civic for 30percent under what it was going for at the time, so i really couldn't turn it down.
My grandfather has a Taurus with the same engine that recently hit 610 000 km (380 000 miles). Thing is a beast, and this is on rough roads of the Ottawa valley (though it is technically highway driving)
Mostly daily driving, but I will haul around a motorcycle, lawnmowers and other similar stuff. We own some farm land, and some rental houses which I help maintain.
Dodge's are fucking junk, don't even look at them. Toyota does make a nice truck i do not really have much dealing with them to say either way. I have always been a fan of either the Ford or the GM. Now do you want a 1/2,3/4,or1 ton? I really dont have much use for the 3/4tons because they generally have the half the same stuff as the 1ton, ride like a 1ton, but dont have the capabilities as one. I know in BC, 1tons are not considers a luxury item, so you dont pay the luxury tax. I hate to sound go big or go home, but i would generally suggest the biggest V8 you can get. I just know to many people who went for a smaller one, and once they started using the truck they wish they had a little more power. Especially you when you are on a farm, you will end up using it more and more for hauling stuff around. With the Ford there are two, the 4.6 and 5.4L, i would suggest the 5.4L. With the GM, there are 3, 4.8L,5.3L.6.0L, i would suggest the 5.3L, if you really need the power of the 6.0L you can go for it, but it is a fuel pig. Now onto drive train. If you are going for a half ton, the ford has the 8.8" and the 9.75" differentials, the 9.75" is a much better rear end if you are going to be towing. If you do happen to get the 8.8" try and get the 31 spline axles. If you are going for the 1ton for heavy duty towing, they come in 10.50 and 11.15" unless you are doing extreme towing(12000lb+) the 10.5 is a great rear end. The gm 1/2"tons, they have a 8.5",9.5", i would suggest the 9.5" rear end. With the one tons, there is the 9.5",10.5",11.5", same with the fords, unless you are doing extreme towing, the 10.5" is a great rear end. Now for gear ratio's, you will have a choice between something like 3.31,3.55,3.97,4.27,4.88,5.38, there are more, but those are the most common. The 3.31/3.55 are good highway gear, they make your fuel economy good, but if you dont have much of a load. The 4.88/5.38 are generally found in 1ton duellies that are meant to tow alot of weight. I would suggest the 3.97 or the 4.27 depending on how much towing/driving you do. Hope this helps, any more questions, just pm me.