Your answer is here: Bob is the oil guy I agree with Wexton - at this point, oil is oil. The real advantage to synthetic oil is that it allows you to extend your drain intervals. If you're going to change your oil by Ford's schedule, there's really no reason to use synthetic.
It also depends on the engine. If you are talking about a Honda B16 or a Nissan VQ30, then it isn't a big deal. If you are talking about a high-revving engine like a BMW S62 or a Honda C32B then some oils are formulated better for that (and can go a long way to protect things like rod bearings, which can fail with poor oils). With a Ford, run whatever is cheap at Wal-Mart. I but Mobil One Synthetic 10W30 at Wal-Mart. $22 bucks for 5 quarts.
I run Amsoil in my Dodge diesel and it made the engine run noticeably smoother. I am also running a bypass filtration system which extends the drain interval to 15,000 miles. So far it works great. I didn't notice a change in gas mileage like some claim, but I have a heavy foot. It is cheaper in the long run too.
I buy Amsoil in bulk and quite like it. Still change every 5k but I do a lot of towing with it. Always found it better to change more often than not often enough.
I'll put 7-8k miles on my truck max each year. I use it for getting around when the snow is hip deep, for towing some toys, short tows at the shop, and whenever I've got a bunch of big guys riding with me. I think a once a year Amsoil change will work for what I'm doing with it now. Thanks.
I run synthetic in my diesel because VW said my warranty is void if I don't use the one that meets their specs. Unrelated question: Anyone know the best place to get a time for a block heater to turn on? I've seen them mentioned now and then but I'm not sure where to start
Well guys, this might be better for the motorsports thread, but here's the story of my Ice Racer project http://derekkreindler.blogspot.com/2011/02/finally-im-going-racing.html
Okay, so still limping my 2000 Dodge Intrepid along. Latest & greatest problem... Service engine light was coming on sporadically, literally, stop at a stoplight, go to take off, car dies, light comes on, restarts, light stays on, but doesn't die again. Started after September, a friend of mine & I replaced the fuel pump (the one in the tank). Hasn't done that lately, but still light issue! Now, it stopped it's dying thing, but when I hit 1/4 tank of fuel, or just above sometimes, it pops on. As soon as I put gas in it, the light will go away (literally, drive away from the gas station, it goes out). I have a buddy with a code reader, and this isn't a stored code. Been too busy to let it run down (plus with the snow, I don't want to often!) to 1/4 tank... happened last night, so just whipped into the gas station, filled up, and no light. I rarely let my vehicle get below a half tank, I just had a busy week. Best guess so far is an O2 sensor or something, but also makes me paranoid because of the pump replacement. Did we do something wrong that is making this happen? Any ideas on this screwy deal?
Easiest solution: Drive it til it comes on. Go to your local Advance or Autozone. Leave the fucking thing running so it doesn't clear the code. Have them come out and code read it.
Yeah, with my work schedule, and the fact we don't have an Autozone or Advance within 40 miles of here, makes that tough. The local stuff closes at 5 sharp, which is what time I get off work usually. So, I can try to run it low I guess, and make an 80 mile round trip to see... something. I had thought of that option, but since it stopped dying, I thought someone here might have an idea.
My M5 finally arrived on Thursday, and I had a fun day (the first of many) getting things sorted out. Today, I: -Changed the tranny oil with Royal Purple Synchromax -Changed the diff oil with RP 75W140 -Replaced the cheesy broken cupholders (I will never use the new ones, but at least they work) -Replaced fuel filter -Replaced rear ball joints -Replaced Air filters and cabin filters Tomorrow, I plan to: -Replace the majority of the front suspension, including new thrust arms, control arms, and tie rods (all with Powerflex poly bushings so I don't have to replace the crappy OEM bushing every 50K miles) Planned for next weekend and the weekend after: -New water pump -New belts -New thermostat -New belt tensioners -New timing chain tensioners -New valve cover gaskets After that, I'm going to get everything cosmetic done. The wheels need refinishing (they aren't bad, but I'm a perfectionist) and a few small dings need to be taken out. Sadly, I think the Nav computer might be going out, but I'm pretty sure I can just replace the DVD laser in the assembly to make it work again. Otherwise, I'll be paying $750 for a new computer, which I don't really want to do. I'm enjoying having projects and reasons to buy tools.
When the car dies is it sputtering out or just instantly dying. Have you run injector cleaner or dry gas through it recently? The next time you fill up and are going to be driving a while dump a couple of bottles of dry gas in.
So let me first say thanks to everyone that gave me ideas and suggestions on the issue. I took everyone's advice and checked all my lines, checked my radiator for buildup or blockages and changed out the thermostat. Bad news is that none of that fixed the issue, and when I checked the oil cap, it looked like chocolate milk, so I'm pretty sure it's a leak or crack in the head-gasket. Great news is that thanks in part to my tax return coming sooner than expected and somehow still getting a decent trade-in offer from the dealership I was unable to get rid of the faulty vehicle and replace it with the beauty below. (Spoilered due to size) It's okay to be jealous, I would be too.
My truck got prowled last week, so I'm shopping around to find a new stereo setup. I'm looking for head unit, 6x9's (that will be mounted in boxes in the exCab), and a 4 channel amp to power the speakers. My only basic requirements are a USB input in the rear (so I can run an ipod cable to the center console, I hate having the cord in front), and each component <$200. Here's what I've got so far, I'd love some input: Head Unit: Kenwood Excelon KDC-X794 6x9's: Alpine SPS-609 Amp: Alpine MRP-F300 Thoughts? It's been awhile since I've shopped for car audio. Thanks!
Literally, I'll be at a stop sign & step on the gas, it just dies. Haven't run cleaner through it in quite a while, will give that a shot.
A code reader is cheap. If you're nursing along an older car, it can be invaluable - a quick, easy way to check an engine code without having to drive anywhere or wait in line. I got this one on sale for $25: <a class="postlink" href="http://www.amazon.com/Actron-CP9125-PocketScan-Code-Reader/dp/B0007LEG2K/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;">http://www.amazon.com/Actron-CP9125-Poc ... 0007LEG2K/</a> However, most of the cheap ones are the same so buy one that's on sale or off eBay - they simply read the codes and display them for you. No magic tricks. Write them down and Google them when you're in front of a computer. I tend to drive my cars into the ground so it's far more convenient for me to own one. Plus, depending on your state laws, you may flunk inspections with the CEL on so if you have an intermittent light that's not indicating something you want to fix, you can shut it off for inspection (assuming it's a code that doesn't come back instantly).
I've been out of the loop for car audio stuff for awhile but Infinity has always made good speakers. I think the Kappas are one step below the Perfects. MB Quart is another brand that is up near the top and one I'd take a serious look at. My last setup had 4 kicker 6.5" speakers with a kicker 400w 4 channel amp. One thing you need to watch when putting in aftermarket speakers is that the mounting depth isn't too shallow for the new speaker.
My $.02 on the stereo system: I, too, avoid 6 x 9s like the plague. Just out of curiosity, what kind of truck is it and why 6 x 9s in boxes in the extended cab? What do you have for room in the doors and dash? We can piece together an awesome sounding system for you by figuring out what you have to work with for door and dash space, and we can hide all your shit so it doesn't get jacked. Also, don't bother with an MP3 playing CD player. Either get an MP3 playing DVD player (I had one in my RX7: 800 songs on one disc, same navigation as playing MP3 CDs, just a lot more files) or the new shit I've seen lately has direct plug in for memory cards. Why bother with an ipod, USB cables or anything else when you can just buy up to a 16GB memory card and plug it into the head unit directly? This Pioneer stereo with SD card slot is a good example of what I'm talking about: It can play MP3 CDs or you can stick an SD card in it and not bother with ipod hookups. Sure, it's got a USB input if you want it, but the idea of loading up 16GBs on an SD card and not having to worry about bringing CDs/MP3 players/ipods is pretty damn cool. Load up 16GBs of your favorite music (which is something insane like 3000+ songs) and if there is something new you feel like adding in to the mix, burn a CD or bring along your ipod as needed. Here's what I would do: That headunit. These speakers for your doors. This amp to power the speakers. Bridge the rear channels. This shallow mount sub which can fit in a really, really small box and be hidden in the back of the cab. Total is under $700. Seriously, that would sound a million times better than 2 speakers up front and 2 6 x 9s out back, especially in something as small as an extended cab pickup. I am in the process of building a system for my Bronco, and the 6 x 9 holes in the back are going to get 6.5" or 8" mid-bass, or just be left empty. Subwoofer in the way back. If you're looking for good sound, you want your mids and highs up front, bass in the back since it's non-directional. And yeah, you could do a pair of those 10 inch subs, but honestly, unless you want to bump some Eazy Mothafuckin' E, it would be overkill. If you want a stealthy system that sounds good, a pair of component speakers and a sub will do you just fine.