Generally you can tell a bad wheel bearing by doing turns at higher speed. If you turn left, the body rolls to the right and takes weight off the left side. If the sound goes away or at least gets quieter then you'd know it's the drivers side wheel bearing. It will get louder if you put more weight on it. It's really hard to tell which wheel bearing is bad by driving straight. Even if a wheel bearing is loud it can still feel tight by shaking the tire or even looking for play in the bearing itself. Other times the bearing may be literally ready to fail and not make any noise. I had that happen on a dodge truck I used to have. I only found the bad wheel bearing after replacing a snapped axle shaft. As for no heat, there's a variety of things that can cause it. First, make absolutely sure you have enough coolant in the car and that there isn't any leaking. Check both the radiator and coolant overflow if you have one. Just being a little low can cut your heat off. If that's fine, check your 2 heater hoses going into the car on the passenger side of the firewall after the car is warmed up and have the heater turned on. Both hoses should be hot/warm, close in temperature to each other anyways. If one is hot and one is cool or cold then you probably have a plugged heater core. To try and unplug a heater core you remove both hoses from the engine then use a garden hose and spray into the outlet hose of the heater core. If both are warm then it could be the blender door not opening in relation to you moving the lever[I think it's the older lever style on that saturn?] . As far as checking your blender door, it's nothing I've done before but sometimes you can look up under your dash and physically move it. I've never heard of a "single loop" cooling system, I suppose it's possible but heater cores aren't very big and I don't see how all the coolant could go through it.
For the whirring sound, I can hear it at a very slow speed all the way up to highway speeds, again always dependent on steering. straight and turning to the right, I can hear it, turning to the left it either goes away or at least gets a lot quieter. I suppose it could be a bearing, but when I had the wheels off yesterday they looked clean, felt tight, rolled smoothly etc. I'm not really sure what else it could be besides a bearing or cv joint though. As for the heat, the coolant level's good. And your point about single loop system is correct, I was thinking of my old VW that iirc controlled coolant flow through the heater core, such that the dial set to full cold would cut off the coolant flow through the core, which ultimately led to those cars often having problematic cores. Something along those lines. But I think I'm going to check the input/output lines to see if the core's clogged. Thanks again to everyone who's offered suggestions.
That's what I was saying though, in my experiences with bad wheel bearings the rim and tire will still feel tight and even removing and examining the wheel bearing itself you cannot feel any play in it. The only way to tell is by the sound it makes and how the sound changes based on speed and turning unless it's in really poor condition. How low of speed are you talking? I've only ever heard CV shafts click when they are going bad and they will click regardless of which way you're steering but not make any noise going strait, unless it's also in really poor condition.
Yeah I thought CVs click too. I can notice it at parking lot speeds, so I'm gonna say around 10mph, possibly lower. I'll double check next time I drive it (been stealing the gf's wheels recently). And that's bizarre about bearings. Trying to think what would cause them to fail without becoming loose. Maybe dry out and suddenly seize? So is there any way to check the bearing then to 100% identify it as the culprit? I wouldn't mind changing it just to be safe, but I don't want to pay a shop to do it, and I've got a 400ish mile trip home to my tools yet.
Well the bearing hasn't really failed yet at that point, it's just well worn and close to reaching or already past it's useful life expectancy. The grease will break down causing excess heat, heat is the #1 cause of bearing failure. A hard hit from a bump or pothole can deform the bearing races also. It's an 11 year old car so I'm assuming it has at least 100,000 miles on it? I drove back home to MN from FL one time on a bad wheel bearing, it slowly got louder the whole way back. If the noise is changing based on speed and then changes more depending on the body roll[from steering it] of the car I would put money on a wheel bearing every time though. Doing slow turns, enough to make the car sway, at around 50mph is the best way to figure out which side it is. Most of the time in an industrial setting bearings get replaced based on a certain amount of hours recommended by the manufacturer, it's part of preventative maintenance programs.
I hit a huge pothole a couple days ago (I was pleasantly surprised my tire didn't pop) and the wheel has been about 15 degrees to the left since, and the car drives straight when it's at that position. How hard is it to realign a steering wheel? If it's too difficult, I can always bring it in to get it fixed, but I figured may as well try and save a few bucks. The car is a 2006 Toyota Matrix XR AWD.
It's probably doing that because something was busted up when you hit the pothole. Not just moved, or slipped, but BROKEN. Or Bent. Have you actually looked under the car to see if there's broken shit under there? Worst case, you could be on the verge of catastrophic failure. Odds are you've bent or mangled a control arm or something, and your alignment is all fucked up. Very rarely can you take that kind of damage and have it screw up your steering wheel / alignment equally on both front wheels. On top of that, you're probably wearing the crap out of your front wheels. Think cheese grater to the treads. I'd recommend taking it to an alignment shop ASAP and have it looked at. Might require a replacement control arm and a couple hours of work.
I'm going to be getting a new car in the next year. I'm unsure of what to get but I know what I want. My previous car was a 2004 Pontiac GTO. I loved the performance but it scared the crap out of me every winter. I have a 2002 Subaru Forester with 130k right now that I got from my parents. Its a great car, runs like a champ but is slow. It's been great in the Chicago area winter though. The obvious choice for me would be a Mitsu Evo or a WRX STI. The problem is the rarity of these cars and the cost. I need to stay @20k. The BMW 330 XI is another option being all wheel drive. Anyone have any experience with a standard 330 in winter conditions? That would broaden my search considerably, which will already be difficult because I would prefer a coupe and manual transmission. Ideas?
If you like the Subaru but are looking for something with a little more go, check out the Legacy 2.5GT or 3.0R. I just bought a '09 Legacy 3.0R with less than 25K miles for right around $20K and I love it. Plenty of speed and does great in the winter. My buddy has a '08 2.5GT, which I believe he also got for around $20K. Basically the same car but a little faster since it's got the turbo. Not a coupe, but a manual tranny is optional with the 2.5GT. I don't have any experience with the 330's, but I'm sure they're nice cars. Check what the insurance will cost you, though.
330s (both e46 and newer) are really well-sorted cars. Back in college my buddy's sister had an e46 330xi (AWD) and his step mom had a newer e90 330i. The 330xi was obviously better in the snow, but the RWD 330i with snow tires and traction control was fine and my buddy's step mom drove the car daily here in Minnesota. I actually preferred the 330i because it was more balanced, tossable, and had amazing brakes considering it wasn't a M-car, but you really can't go wrong with either. Insurance shouldn't be that big of an issue if you are considering STi and Evos either, since insurance on those two cars can be pretty high depending on your age and location.
Nothing about the new Vette screams douche... it's a fucking hot car. Personally, I'm not a fan of the new Challenger, Camaro, etc. While they look not too bad, they're just too plastic and small inside for my taste. It's like the interiors weren't really thought out, but rather kind up just put together, if you know what I mean. Sure, they have monster power, reasonable suspension and handling, but not my thing. I'd be tempted to look into a used M3, depending on your budget.
I completely agree on all the points, just going to add one with, only problem with the Vett now is the top end ZR1 either start at $130K or $144K depending on the package, with that kind of money, you are getting more expensive then Porsche 911 and just under a 911 Turbo, as much as i love Vett's, if i was spending that type of money, i would have to pick a Porsche.
As a Porsche fanboi, I just wanted to add that you might want to look for a used Cayman, if that's in your price range at all. Sure, it's not a 911, and doesn't have the "hey, look at me" factor, but it's a better performance platform than almost all of the 911s (way, WAY stiffer body, etc), and as a result handles somewhat better than the vast majority of Porsches on the road. It's also got a ton of room in it... probably 3 or 4 times the luggage space than a 911 coupe. The only downside is that Porsche intentionally hobbled the power in the things so they wouldn't show up the iconic 911's and piss off all their premiere customers. That being said, some very prominent race shops have been putting the X51 engines in them, and the combination is mind blowing awesome. (The X51 is the high-performance 911 engine). A friend of mine has one that he uses in DE's, and it's competitive with all but the Turbos and the GT3, depending on the driver. And that's another option, too... you can pick up a 993 or maybe even a 996 GT3 for not much cash these days. They may be a bit dated, but they're still a fucking awesome car. And in case you're not up on them, the GT3 is basically the closest street legal race car that Porsche offers, and features minimal weight, awesome suspension pieces parts, minimal luxury options, a bit rougher ride than the other models (that comes alive on the track), and engine response that will scare you. Our race car that we raced in the 24 Hrs of Daytona is the high-end GT3 (the GT3 Cup S in Grand Am Spec), but it has the same tub and basic pieces parts. You can think of it like this... the 911 Turbo is lusted after by those that go touring and enjoy the heated seats, whereas the GT3 is lusted after by those that go to the track and want to rip the carpets out of their car to reduce weight. Just don't think Boxster... that's for hair stylists and most soccer moms that want a fancy Miata. I know most people roll their eyes at Porsche guys, or dismiss them out of hand for their perceived price, but they really are worth looking at if you want to have some serious driving fun. And the used ones aren't as expensive as most people think. Pieces parts and labour might be more, but I've found that those pieces parts tend to last way longer. There's a reason why you see a ton of 70's and 80's 911's on the road. I'll shut up now.
Yea, and there is a reason, why it is more expensive then the convertible. A first time i have ever seen a coupe cost more then a convertible. Cause it just rocks. I am going to wait a few more years, and see if i can pick up a nice used one.
I have a friend looking for a cheap, reliable car that gets decent gas mileage. She's currently driving an Expedition. She wants to spend around $5-6k and is going to put a minimum of 200-250 miles per week on the car. She was looking at like 1999-2001 Beetles. For around 5k or so, it looks like she could get one with around 100k miles on it. How reliable are the Beetles, both gas and diesel? Anything I should tell her to be wary of? If not a Beetle, can anyone else recommend something that might fall into that price range and get decent gas mileage? Thanks in advance (and green dots) for any advice.
I would strongly recommend against a VW of that vintage, they tend to have a lot of electrical problems. I gave this same advice to a friend of mine and I've already had to help him fix several things on his Jetta. There's a short in the electrical system somewhere that constantly drains the battery that he hasn't been able to find. We put in a battery disconnect so every time he parks the battery isn't dead the next time he wants to start it. If you're simply looking for a driving appliance that gets good mileage, get a Honda or Toyota. Get the newest one you can afford and have it looked over by a competent mechanic before purchase. If it was me I'd probably try to find an Accord; they're fairly comfortable if you have to drive long distances. A civic will get better mileage though.
My dad leased a Cayman S when they first came out and its an amazing car. It's built to go fast anywhere you want to take it and it really shines on twisty backroads. While Porsche claims they tuned it down so they wouldn't cannibalize the 911 line, in reality, guys were putting them on the dyno right off the lot and seeing over 300hp. Concerning the X51, Farnbacher Loles here in CT was one of the first shops who I heard were doing this, and they brought their car to the NY Auto Show in (I think) 2008 for a demo in front of the Javits Center.
Engine wise, she can go with the 2.0L (2.slow), the 1.8 turbo, or the diesel. The 2L is actually a rock solid platform and has been around for quite a while, gets good mileage and is dead nuts easy to work on. The downside is that it is horrifically slow. The 1.8T has a bit more punch, still gets decent gas mileage, and has mod potential if that is something your friend cares about (unlikely). The stock K03 turbo is extremely small so there isn't a lot of turbo lag, so if your friend floors it from a stoplight it will accelerate rather linearly. Stay out of boost and she should see decent (mid-20s in an auto) gas mileage. Keep in mind these cars were made before direct injection has implemented by VW, so the mileage will be a bit lower than more modern cars. The diesel, unfortunately, I do not know much about. I don't know if you have to use urea additives or not. I know they aren't all that common, and I assume it's the same diesel that was in the older mk3 Jettas and Golfs. Gas mileage looks like it's about 34/45 with an auto, so still good by today's standards. Be careful if she is looking at automatics, as the old autos (this was pre-DSG, VW's dual-clutch gearbox) are known to break. Most VWs of that era love to eat wheel bearings, ignition switches, coil packs, MAF sensors, and a few other things. The gas engines are all interference engines, so if the timing belt or chain breaks (which does happen due to the shitty plastic guides that break and cause the belt/chain to jump) you are looking at pulling the head and doing all new valves at a minimum. The service interval is around 75-100K depending on the engine, so make sure your friend checks the maintenance history of any VW she is considering from that era.
The wife's '06 Impala washer fluid won't blast the windows like it once did. Now when you hit the trigger you get nothing, not even the little motor noise. There is fliud in it. It has been outside this winter but with her driving it a hour one way 3 days a week, shouldn't that free up any frozen fluid in the line? I checked to find a fuse in the book and there is only one for the wipers themselves. So do I need to get a new motor and how much will that run me? thanks
The washer pump could be dead but a few minutes with a voltage tester will tell you if that's the problem or not. And for an '06 Impala, the washer pump is around $20... according to the RockAuto.com site.