There should be 2 fuses on that car that pertain to the wipers. One for the wipers themselves and one for the wiper fluid pump, it's in the fuse block under the hood. I did a bit of reading and there is a TSB[technical service bulletin] that has information on upping the pump fuse to a 15a instead of a 10. The number for the TSB is 07-08-43-004c.
Yep. Checked the only fuse labeled windshield wipers under the hood and it was blown. And like you said, it was a 10 so I put in the extra 15. Why couldn't GM put that in the manual that it also controled the washer fluid? (Insert lazy, Union, or stupid joke here) Thanks
The diesel engine is the same engine that was in the MK3 Jettas and Golfs and will run until the end of time. I don't think they ever put PD engines in the Beetle. Slow drivers tend to get 50mpg highway on them either way. In general the DieselBeetle is a solid car, the engine will last forever, and many of the electrical problems in the Jetta and Golf at the time never found their way to the Beetle. That said, the transmissions on them if you go automatic are horrid, so if she can't drive stick, avoid.
So I think it's about time for me to replace my '99 Olds Alero. Lot of nagging issues over the past 6 months, and I'd like to have a more reliable car with better gas mileage. After doing some research and test driving I think that I'm set on going new, which I didn't think I'd ever do. I'm looking at a 2011 Ford Fusion SE 4 cyl; gets 34 mph highway, has plenty of legroom for my frame, and the trunk is enormous. All of the used Fusions I've seen are around '08 or '09 with 40K miles on them, and are close enough in price that I think buying new may be worth it. Anyone here drive a new model Fusion? Anything that they like or dislike about it?
We've got a fleet of them where I work for the junior sales guys. They get the shit beat out of them, are rarely serviced on time, and have a billion miles tacked on them. No issues whatsoever. They're great cars, comfy to ride in, and relatively inexpensive to service (comparatively). If the prices are close enough used vs new I'd go new based on the fact that you might get a lease return from a place like this.
That's what I was thinking. I see how people treat rental cars, so I assume people treat their leases the exact same way.
I caved and took it to a shop, who found that the distributor itself was cracked, leading to moisture and rust, causing the misfires. (side note, when did distributors get so fucking expensive??). The only problem is, the shop gave it back to me with anbit of a rough idle. Accelerates fine, just idles like hell. No codes thrown. Shop wants to charge me another diagnostic fee, so I'm coming here first. Any ideas?
As I often point to... check the IAC (idle air controller). After upgrading the distributor, plugs and wires on my Syclone the first time around it ran like ass. The old distributor was what both the mechanic and I believed was making it run like shit but it still had a slight stumble after replacement. IAC was sticking and causing erratic idle.
I have a really interesting problem here. My friend has a older Lexus GS400. The problem ... He cant keep the tires balanced. He will go to a tire shop, have them balanced, drive for 10-15 minutes, start to get a vibration, drive back to the shop, and the tires will not be balanced. One shop spent half a day, on this going to all of his different store thinking the machine was broken. My friend has gone to multiple shops and no one can figure this out. He originally had aftermarket 17" rims, kept having this problem, went to 18" aftermarket and still had the same problem. So that is two different sets of rims and rubber with the same problem. As a note, all this started after he got a brake job done. My only things i can think of is that, either the bead is slipping and the tire is physically moving on the rim, or somehow some of the belting on the inside of the tire is slipping. But this has been two different rims and rubber. As said before this all happened after a brake job, but i dont see how anything other then the rim/rubber can cause a balancing issue. Neither to me sounds likely at all. My only suggestion is to get chalk and mark the rim/rubber to see if something slipping. Any of you got any suggestions?
It takes either an enormous amount of power or very under inflated tires to get a tire to spin on a rim. If anything, you could take a marker and put a line across the rim and tire and see if they still line up. What kind of balancing are they doing?
Couple of things: Is it all of the tires? Is he losing any of the wheel weights? If so, tape them down. On our race cars we tape them down with proper metal duct tape. The weights should be on the back of the wheel anyway, so this wouldn't be in view. If the wheel is slipping, mark it. Grab a paint pen or chalk and mark on the tire where the stem is, and see if it does move. If it does, either he's braking stupidly hard, they've used too much lube to get the tires on, or the tires are the wrong size. We don't use lube when putting on our tires, we use cheap hair spray; blue Aquanet, actually. It's slippery going on, but when it dries, it's sticky as fuck. If the tires are the wrong size, not much I can say.
People greatly underestimate or forget the power that is braking. Most people imagine tires slipping or rotating on the rims happening under acceleration, but we've found it's actually braking that has caused this for us. (True, it's monster braking down from 180mph in a race car, but same thing). And most "stupid" or lazy shops put way, WAY too much lube on tires to get them on, especially low profile tires for big rims. The lube doesn't go away that fast, and can really exacerbate the issue.
I had never heard of it happening under braking before. I think I see how it would happen though. The tire would get out of round, much like they do under very hard acceleration, and slip a little. There's no way this is happening from either acceleration or braking on a daily driven car though, especially repeatedly. I fail to understand how a brake job would continually affect a tire balance though. Knowing what was used to balance the tires could help though. Something else is going on.
2001 Mazda B3000 Dual Sport, ext cab, 3.0 V6, 2WD, 5 speed, aka Ford Ranger Edge. So after 163k gentle one-owner miles (seriously), the truck starts pulling at the very bottom of the pedal as you release the clutch. There is a leak somewhere, as I have had to refill the fluid for the clutch a few times. I ended up biting the bullet, and am taking it in to get it seen about in a couple of days. My mechanic said something about having to drop the transmission to repair the leak. If this is the case, he recommends replacing the clutch while he's in there, as I'll already be paying for the labor to pull the transmission. Considering the factory clutch has so many miles on it, does that sound right? I know the clutch and pressure plate are gonna run about ~$300 just for the parts, and I expect to pay at least that in labor. Still, my truck looks and runs like a new one, so I want it fixed right. Opinions?
That would be pretty standard. Any time you are separating an engine and manual transmission with that many miles you're best off installing a new clutch and probably a throw-out bearing also.
Doesn't require the tire to get out of round for this to happen. All you need is a slippery bead and sufficient braking force compared to weight of the car. If the tires are too big or small for the wheel, or they can't be properly seated on the bead, or have too much lube, or any combination of the three, it could very well be happening with relatively little force and repeatedly. But yeah, not sure how a brake job makes a difference either. Unless it's not just a pad replacement and actually a different set of brakes that may have different clearances and might be hitting wheel weights or something fucked like that.
Since the same thing has happened with two different sets of wheels/tires, that usually rules them out, except that maybe the wheels are a little bit undersized and the tires aren't tight enough on the rims. Definitely mark them to see if that's happening. Has he had the alignment checked after the brake job + new wheels? If the aftermarket wheels have a different offset than the factory wheels, that can magnify an alignment problem, even making the wheels throw the weights at speed. It can't be the belts slipping inside the tire. If that were actually happening the tire is already destroyed, and it would be obvious. The belts aren't floating free inside the tire; it's all one molded mass after curing. Has he tried road force balancing? If the uniformity is bad on the tires, they can be perfectly balanced on the machine and still feel unbalanced on the road, especially with tire brands that are typically used with aftermarket wheels. Look on the Hunter site to find a dealer who has a machine. This will determine if a wheel is out of round too.
I'm looking to sell my 2007 Ram 3500 SLT with the 6.7L Cummins. Anyone have a good source for figuring out what the value of it would be? I've looked around in the local online listings, but there aren't really any for sale. I'm hoping that's a good thing, and it means it'll be in demand.
Are you friendly with any car dealers that also deal in used cars? They're your best resource for what the local economy will bear. Otherwise... Ebay. Every friend I've told to list a vehicle on there has made more money than they expected.