What do y'all know about older Mazda trucks? There's an 89 B2600i 4x4 by me for sale for $3k... Kinda thinking about ditching my S10, which isn't aging gracefully. The Mazda has a 4cyl, 5spd, ~200k ish miles (the seller says newer engine with 80k on it). I'm just thinking I could use something that's a little cheaper and easier to work on for the next 5 years or so.
They were solid trucks, just like any other imported vehicle. That generation of truck came before Mazda switched to selling a re-branded Ford Ranger. The 2600 comes from motor size, 2600 cubic cm or 2.6 liter. That sounds like a high price to me but that could be because around here it would be pretty rusty by now.
Yeah, they're going for about a grand up here in BC, and it's hard to find one that's not got some rust issues. Our track bought one as a little work truck, and we spent a weekend welding the holes in it.
Well folks, I fucked up and backed into an Audi today. I had a Dodge Ram, and the side of the street slopes pretty extreme. Anyways, the poor woman lined up right behind the truck in such a way that I could not see it through either the side mirrors or over my shoulder. I basically pushed her front passenger quarter panel in. That was it, didn't damage the frame, fender, I just pushed the panel in. Anyone have an idea of how much, out of pocket, it will cost to replace this panel? It's an A4 convertible.
So I had the work done and got the truck back yesterday. They fixed the leak, replaced the clutch and pressure plate, replaced the throwout bearing, and resurfaced the flywheel. The truck still doesn't shift right. I find myself having to jam the gears in, and that sucks. I called the mechanic back, and he said that there is probably still some air in the clutch's hydraulic line. He told me that I can try working the air out by working the pedal. He acted like he spent a good bit of time trying to work the air out of the line, so it must be a pain in the ass. Is there a trick to doing this? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
I'd bring it back down there and tell him to fully bleed it. Bleeding a clutch is the same as bleeding brakes though. I've only ever bled a clutch once, there was a bleeder on the slave cylinder. The bleeder can be anywhere though as far as I know. You need to hold the clutch pedal down and then crack the bleeder for a second or two, close it back up, release clutch pedal, and then repeat until it's just pure fluid coming out. Working the pedal without actually bleeding it won't help anything as it's a closed system.
Does anyone have a tip for unscrewing the spare tire retaining bolt in a Honda Accord? Mine has been frozen in place thanks to rust build up after my trunk got soaked in liquid. The most recent culprit would be champagne. As exciting as that story is, everything I've tried has been a failure (turning the bolt, spraying it down with WD-40 and trying to make the ride as bumpy as possible.) I don't have any kind of device that can give me better torque capabilities thanks to the shape of the bolt head. Any advice would be appreciated.
Go back a few pages and read the advice that was given on how to remove a tire that wouldn't come off, as a lot of it pretty well applies here. Not sure how fast you have to get it loose, but assuming you have some time: WD 40 is not a penetrating oil. Go buy some proper penetrating oil, soak it, and let it sit. Might take a few applications. Use heat on it to get it to expand/contract to break the adhesion. Hit it with a hammer. Make or get a tool that will give you more leverage. They usually employ something called a breaker bar, as it's a long, leverage-adding bar that breaks the nut loose. When you put it back on, apply some anti-sieze. It's usually a paste that comes in a small plastic container with a brush attached to the lid, that you can use to dab a bit on the threads before you re-attach the nut. It'll stop this from happening in the future.
Hey Fawkes- Found your bush truck for you: <a class="postlink" href="http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=140526813136+&viewitem=" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;">http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayI ... &viewitem=</a>
Not quite bad ass enough for my needs... But my militia is looking for a new ride. Gotta be ready when dem Mexicans come after 'Merica!
If you pay for it, I'll take it. Not sure I could fit it in the parking lot though. Question: What could make my truck, 2001 Ford Ranger w/ 4.0L V6, start springing oil leaks? First it was the valve covers, then the lower oil pan gasket and just yesterday the upper oil pan gasket was replaced. The mechanic tested the PCV system and said that it was working properly. What else could it be?? This is getting old, I've spent nearly $1000 getting oil leaks fixed.
What oil are you running? Synthetic? What weight? I've seen cars (2 of mine, actually) start to leak when switching from non-synthetic to synthetic oil. They were way older than 2001, mind you. Did you recently switch to synthetic oil? I found switching back to dino fixed the small leaks I had. It could also be that the last guy to replace the gaskets was a moron who used cheap gaskets and didn't seal shit properly. When the gaskets were replaced, did he comment on them or have any insight as to why they're letting go?
Castrol Syntec 10w-40. Been running that since I bought it brand new in '01. The vc gaskets have only been replaced that one time and it was done by a reputable mechanic. I know that he used FelPro gaskets and he didn't mention anything negative about the old gaskets. I do know that they weren't leaking much, I just like to get stuff fixed before it becomes worse. He also said that there wasn't any noticeable sludge build up under the valve covers or in the oil pan. The main reason it was taken in, that time, was to fix a coolant leak. I had him replace the vc gaskets since he'd have it torn down and they would be easily accessible.
Just under 160,000 miles. The mechanic has no idea what's going on either. The only thing I can figure, right now, is it might be a PCV valve from Autozone that started the leaks. It was the ONLY ONE, of any brand, in stock anywhere close by so I went with it. Following advice from a Ford forum, I put a new Motorcraft PCV valve in just before I took it in this last time. I hope that was the problem.
Just saw this very cool, very old training film that describes how a differential works. If you don't understand how a diff works, watch this 5 minute clip and you will. Very effective, it is.
I posted a few weeks back I was looking for a new car. I ended up buying a 2007 G35 coupe. I love it. Having previously owned a 2004 GTO that tried to kill me every winter, I'm going to purchase snow tires for this car. It seems that buying wheels as well would be a sound decision. Recommendations on tires? Where should I buy? I did a quick quote from TireRack and it was @1300 not including the TPMS sensors. Are these mandatory or can I omit them and just check my tires like I normally do? Is it cheaper to buy now that winter is ending? Thanks.
I've omitted sensors on every single car I've replaced tires on. I'm not sure if there is a component more frequently faulty than tire pressure switches on consumer automobiles. Regarding snows for a sports car... go Blizzak w/ a Z, ZR, or W speed rating. Definitely get a separate set of wheels for your snows as well. Many online outlets were sold out this winter but you might be able to find some at a local shop or on Ebay.