I am in the market for a new vehicle. It's going to be my first time car shopping on my own and I'm a bit nervous. I'm going to put $6k down and would like to keep the find a car under or around $20,000. Does anyone have a compact/subcompact car they'd recommend? I don't have much credit history, but have no debt other than a small student loan (5 years $200/month)and under $1k credit card balance, which I pay in full usually. I drive around a lot for work, so gas mileage is extremely important. I would like to buy an American car, but am open to foreign if it's a good fit. Any advice for a first time buyer?
I'd recommend finding some dealer that has certified pre-owned cars and go take a look at what they have, and see if there's anything you like. We have auto malls around here where there are a bunch of dealers in the same complex so you can really look around. Take a couple for test drives, see what you like, then research them and ask about specific models. $0.02
If I was in the market for a sub-compact, I'd probably be looking at a Honda Fit. Just checking the Honda.ca website, it would seem to meet all your requirements. The entry DX starts at $14,480 CDN while the top line Sport goes to just $18,780. Fuel economy is 7.1 L/100 city to 5.4 hwy. That translates to 33 MPG city to 43 MPG hwy. They're generally well reviewed in the magazines and apparently clown-car cavernous on the inside once all the seats are folded down. For a little more money you can get into a Mazda 3. They start at $16,000 for the stripped sedan and $17,500 CDN for the entry level wagon. Not as fuel efficient as the Fit but more car. As suggested, you should also check slightly used cars.
An alignment should have been performed after the replacement of ball joints. Bad ball joints mainly affect the camber [how it sits in relation to being 90 degrees from the ground] of the tire but that is part of alignment. Any kind of stabilizer bar or steering dampener shock that I've saw only serves one function and it's just that, to stabilize. In theory you could completely remove it and it wouldn't affect an alignment as alignment is controlled by tie rods, pitman arm, idler arm, center link[generally trucks], caster and camber.
The only really solid American subcompact is the Ford Fiesta. And here let me sell you on them The Fiat 500 is also American in that they own Chrysler now, but I'm not sure if it's hit US shores yet (it just came to Canada) I'd reccomend spending a bit more (23 grand or so) and getting a VW Golf TDI. Diesel is a bit pricier right now but it usually balances out when its lower, and the 40+ mpg you'll get (city and highway) combined with the fact it will last FOREVER is fairly useful. They have good resale value too.
I'm wondering if anyone has done window tinting on their own. I'm mechanically savvy and detail oriented, but I can't decide if it would be worth it to do it alone, or just have it done for ~$200 by a professional shop.
There was already some discussion of this a year or so ago, I think, but having done it myself (for a store-front and a car), I can tell you that there are some tricks to the trade (that I never mastered). If you can afford the $200, I'd say have someone else do it. If not, get it really, really wet and just a little bit soapy, and be sure to have the proper tools on hand to squeegee the fuck out of it to get it flat and bubble free. And clean the hell out of the surface before hand.
To add to what Nett said, buy the pre-cut kits from ebay. For $50ish bucks you can get the entire car done and never have to use a razor blade(except for some minor trimming that may be necessary). I just bought my second kit and will be applying it to my wife's car, as soon as it gets here.
Have a pro do it. I've assisted (aka watched and laughed) as friends tried to do their own. It's a pain in the ass and you need tools beyond a razor blade to make the tint fit exact, look good, and stay adhered. $200 seems to be the going rate for most standard sized cars.
I've tinted windows but was only successful with flat glass and a simple shape (back windows of a van). I tried curved glass once and never could get it right so I let a pro do it. To add to what Nett said, make sure you have a new razor blade; anything less sharp will cause fucked up cuts. Also, do it somewhere completely enclosed because even a slight breeze will make handling the film difficult and dry out your surface faster than you want. If you go to a professional shop, spend the extra to get tint with a lifetime warranty so you can get it fixed for free if it starts to bubble.
Will do, I think it would be well worth having someone else do it, especially if there are warranty options. Sounds like quite a hassle.
I have a great appreciation for true master mechanics dedicated to fixing one brand of car. After a tune-up the car feels like its brand new again.
Saw this baby on base in the civilian simulator instructor lot. Can anyone with some expertise help me find out if it's real or a replica? It has all the plates and all the Shelby markings.
The first clue is that you saw it sitting in the parking lot. A real Cobra goes for around $500,000 - $1,000,000 so it's highly unlikely that its owner left it parked anywhere. If you're brave, you can tap on the body. Almost all the replicas have fiberglass bodies while the original was aluminum. Also, a real Cobra will have Smiths gauges, but so do many replicas. The tach and speedo on the early 289's were on either side of the steering column, but the later 427's moved the speedo to the center of the dash. The oil and temp gauges are above the steering column on a 427 and the tach is just to the right of it. Factory Five uses the 289 setup, so if it's a 427 and the speedo and tach are above the steering column it's a replica. The VIN on a real Cobra should be a "CSX..." number, while a replica will either have the VIN from its donor car, typically a Mustang, or some other number that the kit manufacturer supplies. If it's a real one post more photos.
Thanks for the info, some of my other car enthusiasts said about the same things minus the gauge cluster stuff. If I remember correctly, the tach and speedo were off to the right of the steering column with the tach closest to the wheel. I'll ask around the civilian contractors and see if I can get a closer look for more pictures. Also, these contractors make bank, I'm talking 6 figure salaries working for 20+ years after they retired from 20 years of Military service. So there's a lot of hidden money around my parts. I wouldn't be surprised if one of these guys was able to afford a real one, obviously not the 427 though.
Replica. Body lines make me think it's a mid-end replica. Still a fucking blast to drive but not the real thing. The front fascia and wheel arches at the first thing I look at. The replicas have a wider more pronounced flare on the fenders than the originals and the lower fascia is squared off on the replicas (which I think looks better).
Who cares if its a replica. The Mustang based ones have all the benefits of modern underpinings and cost a fraction of what the real ones do. I'd hit it.
Just bought a '94 Jeep Wrangler last night, fully done up for the bush; nice lift package, properly installed, Dana 60 rear end, 34's, etc. Also just placed my order for a 4.3L stroker, 310hp on pump gas, for under $3500 delivered. Should be here in 10 days. Finally get to go into the mountains again and hit some killer fishing holes.
I want an exhaust for my Viggen. Guy, do you have one on yours? Also, any good places to look besides genuinesaab.com?