Indeed I do. I'm a big fan of Stoll Performance. Have visited the shop when in NC. He does really nice work. <a class="postlink" href="http://jakstollperformance.com/t7.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;">http://jakstollperformance.com/t7.html</a>
Guy showed up at the track today driving this. He wasn't towing anything, he was just dropping in to see a friend. I have wing envy.
Guy, full system? Cat back? I'm moving to New Mexico in a month and won't have my go-to inspection guy anymore, they have emission tests and I think a lack of a cat could be a problem. . .
You don't want to delete the cat on a Viggen. Required for enough back pressure. I did a full 3" stainless system downpipe, highflow cat, and the catback system. Sounds great and it was an easy install.
I'm wondering if anyone has built their own exhaust system? I've been shopping around, and think it could be a fun project to build my own system. Starting with a cat back, I think the difficult part would be finding someone to weld for me since my skills aren't even moderate anymore. Any inputs or ideas would be welcome.
You what you really mean is "has anyone had someone build a custom exhaust for them", because welding is all that is involved, other than some minor hanger fabrication. I've done both, and gotten great results both ways. A decent muffler shop can fabricate an entire exhaust system for not much money. Don't expect a ton of power, though.
Meh. I'd go with a proven fabricated system if you're inclined to get the most out of your vehicle. But if $$ in that direction is an issue you can find a local place that has a mandrel bending machine and they can probably fab up the parts required to put together an exhaust. Just don't cob together something from standard exhaust pipe pieces. That would be shameful on a Viggen. From my point of view (especially w/ turbo vehicles) exhaust & downpipe are not a place to skimp. The prices might be double for a vehicle specific fabricated exhaust system but that's because the material is often very good, and because they took the time to perfect the size, route, fit, etc of said system.
Plastic scuffs Anyone have any tried and true methods for fixing/removing scuffs on interior plastic trim in their cars?
Every once in a while when I turn on my defroster I smell antifreeze. It's faint but it's there. Thermostat maybe?
Re: Plastic scuffs A lot of times you can fix that with a little bit of heat. Use a heat gun but be careful not to burn anything. Get the plastic soft and the scuff will sort of flow out. You might have to mess with it a little bit to try to get the texture right. I would recommend practicing on an area that's not too visible at first.
It should be the heater core, it will not be the thermostat. Like gators said check if the carpet is wet, if not it might be leaking somewhere else, but i am going to say i am 99percent sure it will be the heater core, because that is the only place where the air for the interior and the coolant meet.
Most people will automatically think heater core but it can be a leak from anywhere. The smell can be under the hood and then get sucked into the vent that your heater and AC use. Like what got said already, check your carpeting on the passenger side floor, if it's damp/smells like antifreeze it would be a leaky heater core but by then you'd already notice your coolant being low. If you don't smell it while at speed but then pull up to a stoplight for a while and the smell returns you probably have a leak somewhere else. Another thing a leaky heater core can do is put a dew on your windshield that will also smell like antifreeze.
Just bought a set of these guys: Can't wait for them to arrive!! And this guy off a local friend. Spoil for size. Spoiler It's an aluminum undershroud for my engine bay that replaces the shitty plastic one. I had to take the entire plastic piece off in order to change my oil. It's a PITA, but this new one has a removable piece that will make changing oil a snap.
Atlanta auto news: Skip Barber is moving its HQ to Road Atlanta: Skip Barber Porsche NA is moving its HQ from north Atlanta to a site adjacent to the Atlanta airport and adding a test track: Porsche
FYI, we're competing in this new Canadian Porsche GT3 Cup Challenge series: <a class="postlink" href="http://www.imsachallenge.com/news/porsche-gt3-cup-challenge-canada-debuts-this-weekend" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;">http://www.imsachallenge.com/news/porsc ... is-weekend</a> The race management didn't give us the go-ahead to run our car until early this week, which means there's no way we're going to be running in Ottawa this weekend, but we're planning on being in all the other races. Should be fun.
Hey guys, just got back from an oil change at Valvoline, and the guy tried to upsell me on some service. I'm trying to determine whether or not he was just talking out of his ass, or actually telling the truth. For starters: The vehicle in question is a 1997 Mercury Sable with 104,000 miles on the odometer. Other than some minor rust around the rocker panels, the car is in perfect exterior condition. Mechanically, the car feels just as good as it did seven years ago when I bought it. New control arms probably have something to do with that. Here's what he recommended I do: 1. Power steering flush. Now I know these cars have issues in this area, but the car takes turns just fine. The fluid does look a bit dark though, and according to him, I overfilled it. 2. Replacement of fuel filter/"fuel treatment." I'm pretty sure the latter is bullshit, but should I be concerned about the filter? 3. Tire Rotation. Obvious bullshit. Two brand new tires up front flanked by rear tires with plenty of tread that have no abnormal wear. He also told me that the other guy working under my car said I had a minor oil AND transmission leaks. When I pressed him, he told me that it could be just one leak. But isn't transmission fluid pink? I regularly check my fluids and did not notice any abnormality before taking it there. But something is leaking around the engine itself. He thought it was oil, and it certainly looks that way, but again, I checked the dipstick before getting it changed, and it seemed full, just dirty. He mentioned it could be some sort of gasket, but if its either a valve cover or the head gasket, I'd be better off selling it, right? One thing I did do is switch from conventional to their "high mileage" oil. Did I do the right thing, or am I a sucker? Any advice would be much appreciated, thanks.
Honestly, I'd say that the shit he mentioned is stuff that should be done, especially if you don't know the last time it was. Whether you need it or not, who knows... can't tell from here. Not sure what he means by "fuel treatment", unless it's injector cleaner and stuff which can make a bit of a difference. Personally, I try and use Chevron gas as much as I can, and it seems to keep the deposits way, way down in the engine. It's easy to see who uses Chevron or not when you pull an engine apart... it's pretty amazing, actually.