Fuel pumps are generally around $300 bucks online. The OEM Motorcraft for your Mustang is $300 shipped on rockauto. The labor can vary, depending on whether or not they need to siphon gas out of the tank to drop it. I can replace the fuel pump in my Tahoe in under 30 minutes, but that's because I've done it a few times.
It really depends on where they get there parts from and who you know. Fuel pump online 250-350 from the shop probably around 650, what i would sell to a shop is 433. Clutch Kit online 300-400 from the shop probably around 605, what i would sell to a shop is 417.
Can someone please brainstorm an idea about this problem: 1996 F150 straight six, manual transmission. Lately, I'm having a hard time getting it into gear when stopped (or stopping). Clutch is fully depressed, but it simply won't go into first or reverse. I can sometimes get it into third or fourth, but sporadically it won't do the lower gears. I find if I come to a complete stop, wait till a count of two or three, then try to shift into gear it goes fine. Thoughts?
This sounds exactly like my problem, but mine happens on startup, and my clutch slave cylinder wasn't getting any hydraulic pressure from the master cylinder. This caused my clutch to not engage or do anything useful until pressure built up in the system after a while. My car is in the shop right now getting fixed and they are replacing the master cylinder and all of the hydraulic lines. Something of note, the hyd lines are close to the exhaust manifold which could have melted the lines and caused a leak, or caused problems from the constant heating and cooling when I drive and shut down.
Bad slave cylinder, bad clutch line, low clutch fluid, POSSIBLY a bad throw-out bearing. Some cheap, some 'spensive.
Thanks everyone. I'm changing out the front brakes next weekend. I'll have a look then and see if anything's leaking/low.
Bit the bullet, did the brakes myself this past weekend. Pads and rotors, front and back. It wasn't too much of a headache, since my buddy helped me out last time (so I mostly knew how to do it), and he made sure to put plenty of anti-seize on everything so nothing was rusted in place. BUT...once I had the rear rotors off, I discovered that my parking brakes were also shot. The pins (bolts, attachment points, whatever) had broken off of the backing plate and needed to be repaired before new parking brake shoes could be put on. That was another $600 when all was said and done, but it was also 4 hours I didn't have to spend dicking around in the blazing sun on a repair I'm no familiar with.
So I traded in my big Ford and got myself a brand new Toyota Tacoma Crew Cab Prerunner. I decided that I didn't need a V8 or 4x4, as I never tow anything, and used the 4x4 exactly 0 times in the year that I owned it. So far, I fucking LOVE the Toyota. It's so much cheaper, more fun to drive, and I like having 4 full doors as opposed to an extended cab like the Ford had. With that said, the Toyota has a ton of plastic and rubber trim around the windows. My truck sits in the sun all day when I'm at work, so I need a protectant. Can someone recommend me something to use that won't run? I used Armor All the other day, and after a thunderstorm, it had run all down the newly tinted windows, making them look bad. I take very good care of my cars, so I don't mind spending the money on quality product. Anyone? Thanks in advance...
Well a friend of mine was up in northern Michigan this past week for vacation and on way back south today he stopped into the shop where the Bronco is getting it's overhaul. Here's a couple more pics... To say I'm getting a little excited may be a wee bit of an understatement.
You know that shit they sell on tv to clear fogged headlight lenses? Fuck 'em. Use toothpaste. This took me about 3 minutes using Colgate. Left them smelling minty fresh too. (I'm sure they could of gotten clearer if I felt like polishing some more, but it's an old work truck and I really just don't care.) Before: Spoiler After: Spoiler
Some Aussies tried several methods. Interesting results: <a class="postlink" href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cy_WF5Iei_I&feature=youtu.be" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cy_WF5I ... e=youtu.be</a> (I can't get it to embed because evidently I'm a moron)
The only thing you need to do, that often comes in the kits, is to add some kind of UV protectant to the lenses. Otherwise, they're going to discolor pretty quickly.
Ah yes, that's the part we missed when I did the GF's car a few months ago. In other news, replacing the spark plugs wasn't difficult - just really putzy and time consuming. For a white collar hack, I'm beginning to feel like a rather capable armchair mechanic.
Ok, so most of the wiring is done, doors, windshield, and rock sliders are on. With any luck it will be taken for it's first test drive next week.
You are 100% correct. A few days in the Vegas sun and they look like shit again. At least they still smell clean.
I joined the European car owners club today. Totally out of character for me, but I bought a Saab 4 door 900SE Turbo. It was too good of a deal to pass up....it's a '97 with 101K. Low blue book is $3600, I got it for $1800. There are a few issues I need to address like new tires and a couple of electrical quirks, but it runs and drives solid. The interior is leather and perfect with power everything. The paint is pretty fuckered up from the Vegas sun, but I can live with it for the time being. Knowing me, once I address the pressing issues I'm going to start fucking around with the motor and suspension just because I can. Oh yeah, you might be interested to know why I got it so cheap: The Check Engine and Check Gear Box lights were on and the car would barely move from a standstill. I had a real good idea what the problem was, so I crossed my fingers and bought it. What was the huge problem that dropped this car to selling for half of low blue book value? The gas cap was broken. Seriously. Does anyone here have any experience with Saabs? I'm pretty much ignorant about them. (It's filthy in this picture, the paint is the factory paint and appears to be black with a blue pearl overlay.)
For any of you that care, it's alive. Got fired up this week and now on to the final stretch, hopefully I'll have it back the first week in Sept. And, of course, a couple of pics...
I owned an '87 900S. I loved the way it handled, but without the turbo, it was too heavy for the 4 cylinder engine and also went through brake pads like crazy. Built like a tank. Got hit broadside and it absorbed the impact so well, I was surprised there was as much damage as there was when we got out of the car.