Reading into these comments, they seem to conflict. If you're basing your purchase on the cost / features when you drive it off the lot, the Nissan will be fine. But, your second quote seems to imply that you're interested in quality / durability over the long haul. If you're only going to own this vehicle for a couple years and then get another one, the Nissan will be fine. (But, then, if you want to "always have a car payment, but regularly drive new-ish vehicles" you should consider leasing.) Chevrolet (and Ford, but to a lesser extent) will hold it's value longer, and will be a better choice if you want to keep it for more than 5 years. Toyota will, too, but they just haven't been around as long as Chevy and Ford, and are generally a little more expensive, both initially and servicing. I love Chevy, and will gladly get into a good-natured DODGE SUCKS! or FORD BLOWS! argument, but this isn't that. Look at the real statistics. You might want to help yourself decide in this way: Check out the price of a 2013 Nissan Frontier/ Titan new. Then, go on to say KBB.com, and look at the price of a 2013 same model with less than 12,000 miles, less than 25,000 and less than 75,000 miles. Then, do the same with the other brands and models you're interested in just to get some realistic value information. Last year, my sister was comparing the similar Toyota Highlander with the GMC Acadia. The Highlander won out, simply based on the precipitous drop in the Acadia's value as soon as she drove it off the lot.
I usually drive one until it starts falling apart. My current ride is a Ford Ranger 4x4 that I bought new in 2001. She has 175,000 miles and is still running great. If Ford still produced Rangers, I would buy another. The Frontier, from what I have read, appears to be a very reliable vehicle.
So...the Hennessey Venom just went from 0-186 mph in 13.63 seconds--presumably without the assistance of rockets. Jesus...
Stingray design is out for 2014. The front looks aggressive as hell, but the rear looks way too much like a Camaro. Thoughts?
I'm definitely digging it. I realize that every purist is screaming blasphemy over the fact that the new 'Vette doesn't have round tail lights, but I actually like them. There's definitely a separation between the tail lights of the Camaro and the new Corvette. They've also done a much better job with the interior, and it looks like they've finally steered away from all the plastic bits that haunted previous generations of the Corvette. Also, 7 speed manual? I'm sure that we won't be using every gear, but that makes for a 450 HP, 26 (potential) highway MPG sports car. Count me in. Unrelated to this, we test drove a new Hyundai Santa Fe Sport with the 2.0t motor in it. Holy shit does that thing get up and move. The interior is really well put together, and the amount of space in the back is incredibly deceptive. The upgraded trim model with leather also adds sliding rear seats into the mix. I'd even go as far as saying that, unless you're taller than 6'5", you probably wouldn't even need to slide the rear seat back. That's how much legroom is back there. Most likely, we'll be picking one of these up when the President's day sales start.
I have a feeling that it will look much, much better in person. Every writer has talked about how striking and non-Camaro like the deep-dish tail lights are in person. Thankfully, the interior actually looks like it belongs in a $60K car.
The new Stingray looks cool, not as inspiring as I had hoped if they are bringing back the name to one of the coolest cars designs ever. I don't know about the rear end but the front end just keeps looking more and more like a 3-4th gen Dodge Viper to me. I am always hoping they go much more retro then they end up doing with their redesigns. I know that's in vogue now but I think they could have done something really striking (and non Batman-esque like the recent Stingray concept).
Yea it does keep looking more and more like the Viper, and from what i have read about the C6(more specifically the Z06) it handle more like the viper(3-4th gen) when you bring it to the edge of what it can do, which isn't a good thing.
Guess who got a knock sensor failure code . . . Does anybody have experience with StockWiseAuto.com ? Their prices on the items I need seem to be much less than Advance Autoparts, even with Advance running the 15% off everything code. Also, if anyone has a Vortec V-8, do NOT wash your engine. It seems this is a common problem. I have almost 260,000 miles on my 2004 Silverado, with the original knock sensors (and original most everything else!). I changed the alternator a couple weeks ago, and decide to clean off some of the grime. Bad idea. The sensors sit in the engine valley, and the grommet / gaskets for the sensors are not water tight. Yay. I know where 3 hours of my Saturday is going this weekend . . .
Re: Re: The Automotive Thread Will do. I saw that on a couple videos and forums, so that is in the plan.
Re: Re: The Automotive Thread Well, crapola. I ordered $150 worth of parts from Stockwiseauto, and they shipped for delivery tomorrow. I went by Advance Auto to get the RTV, and had them reset the code. I read on one forum that it's possible for the sensor well to dry out if it just got wet during washing. Since the reset, the code has not returned. I am not interested in removing the intake and going through that whole fuel bleeding, gasket scraping, replacement process if it's not necessary. I think the knock sensor failure is a continuous report code; so, if it was still in failure, the check engine light would've come right back on, yes?
Re: Re: Re: The Automotive Thread I wouldn't mess with it, I thought about suggesting leaving it alone earlier but it looked like you were already going into it. It honestly isn't a bad job at all, there will be no scraping of gaskets or bleeding the fuel system ( fyi you won't ever have to bleed a fuel system on a GM vehicle, unless it's a Duramax). Unless you want them changed I would just it let ride as is.
Re: Re: Re: The Automotive Thread I assumed that when I took the intake off, there would be a bunch of debris I have to clean off to make sure I didn't push anything into an opening and make sure I got a good seal with the new gaskets. Bleed the fuel system is the wrong term I'm sure - I just meant I was thinking I had to bleed from this thing here above the fuel rail, to keep from getting gas all over myself. Anyway it's a 2004, and at 258,000 miles, I am all about leaving it alone if it's working. (I probably should change the spark plugs, since they're original . . .) Edit: Spoilered for size.
Re: Re: Re: The Automotive Thread That port is for checking fuel pressure. A few cycles of the ignition will re-prime the fuel system. A scan tool should be able to clear your knock code if it indeed is just a one time bad read from the sensor from being wet. There shouldn't be any sealant on an intake gasket except in a situation where there are separate gaskets, you could put a small "dot" of sealant where the gaskets meet.
Weeee. Ha ha, did I say 3 hours?! I meant 5 and 1/2 hours. Crap. The plastic connectors to the injectors were a mother. Everything else was pretty easy. I can't believe that well for the knock sensor isn't designed better. One looked perfect, the other looked nasty and rusty and corroded. One of 8 came off easy and correctly. Oof. I decided I'd change the spark plugs while I was at it . . . aaaaand broke three of the wires. Just FYI 260,000 miles makes those suckers brittle.
We just refinanced one of our cars, so we've got some extra money to play with each month. I'm seriously considering picking up an '08 VW R32. Has anyone here owned one? Are there any reliability issues I should be aware of? I'm only going to get one if I can get it with a CPO title, but want to be aware of anything that I may have to expect down the line.
95% certain that I know what the problem is, but just to double-check... Signal lights on my truck are not working. Not blinking on the dash; not blinking outside front or back. Hazard lights ARE working. Additionally, when I signal it negates the brake light on whatever side I'm signalling to, and it shuts off. Any takers on what the issue is?