I have a 96 Mazda B3000 that's idling around 1.5-2k and has just started sounding/feeling like there's a bit of an extra/different vibration in the stick. Today, it twice went from low engine temp to 3/4, to redline heat for a moment, after less than five minutes of driving. Is it possible my clutch is dying and increasing friction that's making the temp increase? I wouldn't expect the temp guage to be anywhere near the clutch but I know cars about as well as Taylor Swift knows singing. Edit: I should add that my turn signals may work at a stoplight, but not 1/4 mile after, or vice versa, despite recently replacing every bulb. Massive electrical issue that's also effecting my guages wouldn't explain the high idling would it?
First guess is water pump. How long has it been idling that high? That's not normal. Is it a mechanical or electric fan?
I was rummaging around and found a picture of one of my old cars that may interest some of y'all. It started life as a 1974 "Feather Duster"....something Plymouth created for the gas crisis, it was a lightened Duster only available with a 225 slant 6. Mine was a little different by the time I got it... It had a built 440 stuffed in it with a narrowed rear-end. If I remember correctly those 12" wide rims didn't fill the wheel wells and I had to go with 15's. It amused the shit out of me until I realized I really had nowhere to put it. My 300ZX and Toyota 4x4 had my garage full and I couldn't just leave it out in the weather, so it was the odd car out and was sold. It rattled like hell and needed an interior, but dear God would that car G-O when you hit the throttle.
That truck has issues, could be thermostat or water pump most likely for overheating. However, you have an potentially serious electrical problem and along with the clutch it may not be worth fixing.
Finally got myself another Wrangler. I wasn't really looking for one right now but I just couldn't pass it up, got a great deal. This one is already built too so I don't have to spend more money doing that. It's got a set of axles out of a '78-'79 Ford Bronco. A Dana 44 front with a mini spool and a 9" rear with a detroit locker. 4.11 gears. Came with hard top, soft top, and bikini top. It's an '02 with the 4.0 6 cylinder, automatic, rust free and I only paid $6500 for it. I have to replace the tie rod ends, do some body work, and get some new tires. Spoiler
Thanks for the reps and replies on my electrical issue. I refilled my coolant reservoir, which the radiator greedily sucked right up, and have had 2 weeks without issues... ...except now the battery. Over the past week I kept getting the battery light on dash, but assumed it was the connection because a strong rev would make the light go away while hard braking would bring it back. I assumed it was a loose connection, until yesterday when I had trouble starting and my RPM gauge started acting like a compass in a Bermuda Triangle story. So I guess what I'm curious about is whether I'm ordering a new alternator or a new battery and just how much lube I need for this.
http://www.dixie-electric.com/catalogue/unit.asp?Num_Dix=A-249 Look at the first two tsb. I know it is the wrong year but it might be something to look at.
Thanks a ton! There is definitely a lot of corrosion on the red cable terminal, I thought it was normal to an extent but there is quite a bit. I'll double check my A/C and heater knob as well, hopefully $30 for a new terminal cap and cable will fix it.
We're having some issues with my GF's car. It's a 2006 Ford Fusion V6. A few months a couple of times while under hard-er acceleration the car felt like it downshifted too far a jerked rather violently. Once from a stoplight and once at highway speeds. She never took it to get looked at. Yesterday she tells me that while driving at city speeds (45-ish) she had a sudden loss of power. She hit the accelerator, the engine revved but the car just coasted to a stop. She turned it off, let it sit, then restarted it. It drove fine. I'm thinking the transmission is dying, but I'm not very knowledgeable. What are your opinions? Thanks in advance.
I have a 2004 Honda Accord EX V6 that has about 95,000 miles on it. I have had it for 9 years now. I was wondering if I absolutely have to get the timing belt (it's rubber) replaced at 105,000 miles. I have also heard that it should be done every 7 years. I have read too that the water pump needs to be replaced when the timing belt is replaced. Would a mechanic be able to tell me how soon these things need to be done? Thanks!
On most jap cars the water pump is driven from the timing belt. And the timing belt is an interference engine application which means if it breaks you drop the valves and cork the engine. You don't have to most people don't but it is a good idea.
Alright, so long story time because I know how much you all love long posts by me. The car I posted about above is a 96 Mazda B3000 that's been involved in one rear-end collision (my fault) and worked fine since, mostly. So, based on the above advice and that of a coworker, I cleaned the fuck out of the terminals. Started the car, it was a bit rough but I figured that from the previous issues. Go to do a catering event, it won't start. When jumped it starts immediately, but about a mile later it starts bucking like a horse , I pull off the road and can't go faster than five or ten MPH, and only for about five seconds at a time without it bucking like all of hell is wrenching itself from my truck's soul. So I park, wait for a coworker to come jump me. We let my battery charge off of hers for ten minutes, leaving it at half charge based on my dashboard voltmeter. Not even a mile later, it's not bucking, but my voltage is dropping like a rock. My dad's calling alternator, but he couldn't rule out transmission also being an issue, so I wanted to get some opinions on that.
Take it to Autozone, Advance, or another auto parts store who will test both your battery and alternator for free. It's probably the alternator, but sometimes a bad battery will also cause those symptoms.
To be honest, I don't know. I usually just replace the cheapest links until I have to face the worst case scenario. Speed sensor and throttle position sensor would cost about $100 for both. I just don't trust transmission shops, none of them. It's possible the computer might throw a code that Autozone will check for you for free. I'd exhaust every avenue I could before going to a tranny shop because they will tell you that you need a new/rebuilt transmission no matter what.
I'd say alternator too. What seems to be happening is that when you are jumped the battery ends up with enough of a charge to power the vehicle for a short burst. With a good alternator the vehicle should run without a battery, the alt. putting out enough power to supply the electrical system. With a bad alt. you are limited to only the power the battery has. Another thought is the voltage regulator which is inline between the alt. and the battery to protect the battery from being over charged, these sometimes fail too.
I know you are old but you are really fucking show your age old man, there hasn't been an external regulator in a long long time, last i know is the Ford's from the 80's. But yea, sounds like the alternator completely went.
Re: Re: The Automotive Thread I wasn't going to say anything but next he will be telling him to set his points. Sounds like the alternator to me.