I think you're saying your set up is a 40/60 split with the fold down console, not the 40/20/40 with the fold down on a jump seat. So, you may have to do a full swap to get what you're after. Can you use one of these types? http://www.autotrucktoys.com/ford_truck/Rampage-Contractors-Console-PRD35171.aspx http://www.autotrucktoys.com/ford_truck/Outland-Contractors-Console-PRD13338.aspx They're designed to give a console to trucks with bench seating. So, you could just fold up your useless console, and put in this one. It fastens in place with the center seatbelt. Before I bought my real truck, I had a Ford F250 Custom with a straight bench seat. I put one of these in, and it worked great. That was over 20 years ago, though, so ymmv.
Yes, sorry. I put a picture in so you can see the seat configuration. I was hoping to straight up swap it out. My old truck had a "buckle it down with a seatbelt" one and it always shifted around and looked like hell after a few years. I'd like it to be built in, just like this one is. Also, if I went with those options I can't buckle it in, because the seatbelt is over-the-shoulder and goes up and down when you fold the seat over. Right now, it looks like this:
That's weird... I've found a couple of replacements/upgrades, from a full-on "police mobile" centre console upgrade to simple upgrades. You might want to hit up the f150 forums and see what's going on there... a cursory look showed a bunch of custom work as well as some aftermarket updates. $0.02
New/Used car purchase guide from my car detailing website. It outlines the ways a car dealer can manipulate you to spend more than you want to on things you don't need. The 4 square link is especially interesting for people who have no idea. Pretty solid read for those in the market.
So, I'm finally getting around to doing this. Bought a used ECM from a 2008 model off ebay, installed it, and the car will not start. With the new ECM the immobilizer light is lit. Car runs fine with the old computer, just throws the code so that it will not pass inspection. I guess my next step, unless one of you offers some other advice, is to take the car somewhere that can modify the computer's programming and see what they can do.
If the ECU has an immobilizer, I know there are special "transplant" procedures that you have to follow that involve setting VIN numbers and use PIN numbers and stuff like that... I'm not at all experienced in that, just know it's sometimes required. You might just need to take the ECUs to a shop and get them to do the swap for you, reprogramming the new ECU with the proper VIN/ID values from the old one so it'll work with your current car. Again, just a wild guess. (All the ECU work I've done on race cars or my Jeep had no such immobilizer stuff).
I'll soon need to replace the front brakes on a 2011 Ram 1500; anyone have any suggestions on pads/rotors? I want to upgrade from OE and I'm currently leaning toward EBC's, but curious what others might suggest.
Truthfully stock stuff is more then adequate. Only option i like on my vehicles is a ceramic pad, no/very low dust/noise. But if you are really dead set on performance upgrades http://baer.com/home.php http://www.wilwood.com/Index.aspx http://ssbrakes.com/ http://www.hawkperformance.com/ and if you really want to spend money on a name brand http://www.brembo.com/en/Pages/default.aspx
Does anyone own a Tesla or have experience with one? I'm thinking about purchasing one when I return from deployment in the spring and am highly considering the P85D.
That depends. What parts are you looking for? I sold my turbo a couple years ago, so I don't have all the resources I used to. I can tell you that you're not going to walk into your local Auto Zone and find what you need. I had to buy everything over the internet. I don't think they used anything that was a standard part even though GM built them the last 10-12 years of their run.
I am actually looking for something really weird. I am looking for part number 4114419. From what I can tell it is a connector on the transmission wiring harness for an 01 9-5 with a aero transmission. On our reach stackers there are 1 main control unit and 10 slaves located through out the machine, for what ever reason one of the 2 connectors on the slaves is this saab connector. The other one is a TE which is easy to find.
If it's just a connector, you're only hope is probably a wrecking yard. New Saab-only electrical pieces are almost non-existent. I'm guessing this is probably some sort of issue with the neutral safety switch?
Wonder if it's worth the hassle of redoing the harness to use the easier connector... at least it's only electrical. Friend of mine had his fuel pump implode on his Saab and it cost him 2 weeks and $1350.
Cant redo anything. Each controller has 2 the two plugs(one TE, one Saab) that would be more expensive to replace the connector/plug on the controller. Why this fucking company had to use two different brands of plugs on a one controller is beyond me.
Ahh... thought it was just a connector on a pigtail or something, not a plug on a controller... definitely a more complex scenario.
It is just the pigtail I need, but it goes into the controller, so I have to have the same pigtail or else I would have to change the controller too. It is just these fucking pos Swedish machine we have, use really weird stuff in certain spots sometimes.
I threw up a bit in my mouth. But that being said, if someone gave it to me, I'd drive the fuck out of it. Just sayin.