Made some door panels for the Nova. Not bad for the first time really using a bead roller. Brushed aluminum It lines right up with the roll cage swing outs Here it is finished. I used a generic Dyna-Mat on the back side to deaden them up. They sound like 1/4" steel. Still a while until it's back on the road. Finish the fuel system, wire the EFI, finish the plumbing, possibly redo the exhaust cutouts as their way too low, cut down the driveshaft, make an intake tube blah blah blah
General Motors Co. intends to start selling a mid-engine Chevrolet Corvette in early 2019, according to multiple sources familiar with the company’s planning. Meh. http://www.detroitnews.com/story/bu.../04/sources-mid-engine-corvette-due/88054852/
Kind of looks like a ford GT40. Way to angular like the Cadillac CTS and such. Looks even more expensive then the regular corvette, going to be a hard sell.
A mid-engine Corvette with a massaged Z06 engine would be the king of the hill. Chevy has to build it if they're going to stay in the game.
It's got some trailer-trash Challenger mixed in there as well... It's like a Ferrari 488 and a CTS tag-teamed a Challenger while an Aventador looked on while swimming at the Rio Olympics with their mouths open.
It looks like they went to Chip Foose five years ago and asked, hey can you sketch us a concept car to be used in a movie set five years in the future? And, then they built that.
I dunno, man, it doesn't look like a Corvette anymore. I, for one, was disappointed when they got rid of hide-away headlights on the 'Vettes. Of course, I would never own ANY Corvette (I'll stick with my cheap Pontiac), but I still find them interesting. On a semi-related note, the college where I'm finishing my Diesel Tech degree hosts the GM ASEP program, and that means that it gets lots of vehicles and parts donated from GM. The other day I was walking through one of the storage areas, and they had FOUR LS7 engines*. Just sitting there. Not doing anything. There were even a couple of LS3s. Do y'all have any idea what I could do with one of those bad-boys? The worst part is that all donated parts must be destroyed once they are finished with them; they can't even be auctioned off. Fuck. *For those of you who aren't up on GM engine codes (Which always begin with "L," by the way), the LS7 was the 7.0L/427ci V8 that was only available in the Corvette.
250 horse. 3000 foot lbs of torque. 111 years old. And the owner has no qualms about doing burnouts and kicking it sideways. I want to be this guy's friend. http://www.msn.com/en-us/autos/news...an-airplane-engine-can-hit-127-mph/ar-BBoPbNr
Barn finds always make me smile. This one isn't the greatest, but it could be worse. Like a barn full of Gremlins or something. Twenty-eight classic Ford Thunderbirds and more uncovered on Michigan farm http://www.foxnews.com/leisure/2016...derbirds-and-more-uncovered-in-michigan-barn/ Part of the collection was a V8 Deuce sedan that sold at auction for $15K. That seems mighty cheap,
Did I tell y'all that Jungle Julia and I have his and hers Firebirds? Because we do: Spoiler The picture was her idea; she said that she wanted our cars "ass to ass." Taken outside my shop.
2004, Chevy Silverado, 4.8L Vortec. I finally got around to changing the gaskets on my valve covers. I don't think that was the leak. The old gaskets (13 years old and 344K miles) looked brand new - no tears, cracks or anything. But, I replaced them anyway. The oil fill spout was actually displaced, with the gasket bulging out. I twisted it out and reseated it. I don't know if that may have been where the leak was or not. The leak is showing like one drop a day in my garage, but it's enough to be building up gunk on the engine. Also, the valve springs and rocker arms on both sides had a nice worn amber / bronze color, and the inside of the passenger valve cover did too. But, the driver's side valve cover looked like it had some charring. A hundred thousand miles ago or so, I was getting a "lean" error code, and had to clean the throttle body to keep the computer from being mad at me. Don't know if that was a residual effect from that period or an indicator I'm about to have trouble. Anyway, the reason I am posting is this: What sorts of things should I check if I am getting high oil pressure at higher RPMs? About six weeks ago, I noticed my oil pressure gauge was pegged at 80 all the time. The oil sending unit was bad, and I changed that. At idle it was 40, and would bump up at higher rev. Now, if I'm running highway speeds and have to get on the gas to pass or go up a hill, the needle with peg at 80. The oil filter may just be clogged (?). I am getting my oil changed today, so I'll know that answer soon. A friend suggested: - the replacement oil sending unit is bad - the oil pump bypass line is clogged Anything else I should look into?
Your sending unit is bad, or the cluster gauge is getting worn, those trucks have issues with the gauge panels. What kind of filters do you run?
Well, crap. Thank goodness it's got a lifetime warranty. I would've thought that sending unit would last more than a few weeks! Back to Advance I go. And, I doubt it's the cluster gauge, as I got a whole new one a couple years ago when I had to replace the BCM and PCM. I have no idea. The shop where I take my truck does the oil & filter change cheaper than I can do it myself, and though I've discussed the oil itself, I've never asked about the filter. And, nothing during the oil change had any effect on the high pressure reading. After trying to discuss possibility of the bypass line being clogged and the "asst. mgr. Walt" spending ten minutes trying to sell me on the various engine treatments they offer, instead of giving me any indication he even knew where the oil pump was, I may be taking my truck somewhere else from now on anyway.
Chevrolet trucks in that age range tend to see their oil pressure send unit take a dump if you change out the battery or the alternator. It's like they get stuck on the old voltage and break when you put in newer, hotter power. No idea if you did or didn't, just mentioning it.
If you're taking your truck to a quick lube joint for oil changes, stop. They will put the cheapest filter the can on your truck because margins on a 30 dollar oil change suck. If you are capable of changing your sending unit you're more than capable of changing your own oil. For Chevy LS engines you want a Napa Gold or a Puralator Gold filter, WIX makes the Napa Gold filters but I don't have the part number in front of me. These are quality filters with anti drain back check valves in them. Early LS engines suffered from tick noises and low pressure at idle. Those filters will fix most of that. Any Delco filter that ends with an "E" avoid at all costs, these are junk and not worth using. An engine with your mileage will benefit from a bit more oil pressure, LS engines run less than 15 PSI hot if you were to check it with an manual gauge. Your panel cluster gauge is "massaged" by the ECM because customers wouldn't like seeing such low pressure out of a new motor.