Binary, I've done my share of timing belts in my day, and a car IS NOT supposed to burn any extra oil after a break. What needs to be done is that before he puts everything back together, he needs to blow air into all of the cylinders with a special (easily made) tool that will screw into the spark plug hole. If the valves leak, even a little bit, it will bite you in the ass big time down the road. If any valves got bent, they will overheat, and several things will happen: - Your engine will never run right again, because some of the combustion force is blowing past the valve instead of pushing on the piston. -Since the valve can't seat right, it will overheat, and either "burn" (part of it melts away), break off (this happened to me one time), or the valve seat in the head will loosen up and fall out. If the valves got bent, you've got to take the head off and take it to a machine shop, or just get a remanufactured head. Because if one of those valves fucks up, it could take out the piston and/or cylinder wall.
Does anyone have a recommendation for a jump box? My last one I bought for $50 at Harbor Freight and used it at least 15 times jumping everyone but me. It then sat for about a year in my truck and now refuses to take a charge. My battery is now 3 years old and probably due to shit the bed, so I'd like a box with me, but I don't want one that costs more then a new battery.
Hands down the best for your money, every tech in my shop has one, they have all been used and abused and all still perform well. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000...s=jump+box&dpPl=1&dpID=51eXCN9XAyL&ref=plSrch Edit. Sorry I saw your price requirement so this doesn't fall into that category
Have you tried ripping it apart and seeing what battery is in it? You may be able to swap it out cheaper than you'd expect.
This. Also, I have this one http://www.stanleytools.com/product...peak-amp-jump-starter-with-compressor/js900cs Although it's the older model. I've had it about 8 years, and it works great still. The compressor is VERY slow, so I don't use it expecting great results there. But, I run it every now and then, just so I can recharge the battery. My manual says to recharge it every few months, and I do that. I think regardless of brand or cost, if you don't cycle it regularly, the battery won't last more than yours did.
Yeah, I deal with a ton of battery backups with all the computer stuff I do... and I think I have 8 or so rather beefy UPS's I bought off of eBay for home use. The first one I bought off of eBay was stupidly cheap, and it turns out it was that cheap because the batteries were near end of life and were shit. To buy a replacement battery from APC (a somewhat high-end manufacturer of UPS's) was pretty expensive, never mind shipping costs, so I ripped the unit apart, found a local industrial battery shop in town, took the pack in, and he found a replacement for about 10% of the cost of buying a "real" replacement. From that point on I just bought old, near "dead" backups and put new batteries in them myself... pennies on the dollar compared to buying a brand new unit. I've also done the same for other batteries for hand tools, etc.
Husband just pulled his car into garage and changed oil and air filter. It's an 08 Malibu with 110k on it. Now it won't start. It turns over, and almost fires, but it won't go ahead and start. Ideas?
Might have knocked a hose off or a sensor feed (maf sensor maybe?) or something similar when he did the air filter. Any engine codes being thrown?
It's had a consistent engine code for the catalytic converter, it finally started after he let it sit for a half hour or so. I hate this car. It's a hard run piece that was cheap in the front but costly in the back I'm afraid.
While watching Fast n Loud last night I caught a glimpse in the garage of a '32 Ford. Thinking I'd seen it before, I did a quick look today and here it is before Richard bought it: http://barnfinds.com/low-mileage-1932-ford-3-window-coupe/
More info on the Demon. "More intriguingly, there’s a button on its center stack marked “Racing Fuel” that suggests there’s a built-in mode that optimizes the car to run on very high octane fuel, a unique feature for a mass produced production car, but one that might explain how Dodge is increasing the horsepower of the 707 Hellcat V8 in the Demon."
I don't really know what this is supposed to accomplish. It seems that the "race fuel" button allows it to run up to 110 octane unleaded race fuel, but what will that really do? I ran 110 in my race car because I had insanely high compression that would pre-detonate with anything less, and I needed to have twin plugs to get proper detonation at that octane and compression. I'm having a hard time imagining how you can have a push-button 110 octane engine... it's like that Mad Max blower that was turned on with a switch on the gear shift... "wut?" It could probably advance the timing a fair bit, maybe adjust the air/fuel mapping a bit, but other than spending 4x on gas, I'm not sure what it will get you. Kind of reminds me of the "turbo" button on old computers.
I hadn't read that it would adjust to 110 fuel, I agree that would be pointless. I was thinking it was more like a knock sensor advancing the timing for 101 fuel which I'm guessing would probably net an extra 15-20 HP max.
I found it on a couple of forums talking about the teaser videos that have been released and discussions with dealers. It might adjust ECU mappings from E85 to race gas, but it won't magically give you a race engine at the push of a button. Seeing as it's street legal, it might also turn down a ton of emissions stuff to improve performance in "race mode".
Do they have a variable supercharger? I know you can swap in different pullies to adjust the supercharger boost, but do they have some way of doing it with the push of a button? I've never seen that before... it'd be cool if they did.
Apparently so... : http://www.enginelabs.com/news/inside-look-variable-speed-supercharging-technology/ I wonder if they're going to put something similar into the Demon?
Not sure about the Hellcats, but most roots/twin screw style blowers have a regulator to bleed off extra pressure. It might have an electronic bypass/wastegate that can be adjusted. (I'm at work and don't have the time to look into it.) Here it is on a 03/04 Cobra blower *link to big pic* http://cdn3.volusion.com/vorrp.wszwg/v/vspfiles/photos/COBRATVS-12.jpg?1478003238
Yeah, but that only protects you at the high end of the RPM from over-boosting, you still have the same boost profile throughout the RPM range, no? If you're running the same size pulley on the supercharger, it's the same boost, unless you somehow overboost all the time and rely on the waste gate to regulate that, but I've never heard of a supercharger doing that, especially on a daily driver... that would be incredibly inefficient. (I've only raced with and understand turbos well, I may be missing something with superchargers). All of the info on adjustable superchargers talk about either electro-mechanically swapping pully gears to achieve higher RPM in the supercharger relative to the engine RPM (thereby getting higher boost), or using a variable drive system instead of a pulley.