As do I. I have a little more details on it though... -It's a trojan that I got downloading a fake keygen for a program. -I keep getting Windows error messages that say "cjo.exe" and "cjq.exe" have stopped running. -It's taken away the administrator rights on my user account, and my computer doesn't recognize my mouse USB. -I searched for the two file names above on my hard drive with no luck. -I'm running Vista. Any help, I'd appreciate it. A lot.
I have some sort of Vista Defender virus, it pops up every 8 seconds telling me I have privacy threats, etc. It did something to both McAfee and Norton so they don't work. I'm running the Panda Security thing now, trying to see if that can get rid of it. I'm also burning all the irreplaceable pics of my kids to DVD and I'm going to nuke the hard drive if I have to. EDIT: Ok, this is a fucking bastard. It's denying me access to the system restore software, too.
Usually for those kinds of things, I boot into safe mode and run something like HijackThis!. If you're unsure about what processes, etc. that should be running, perhaps download something like AVGFree on another machine, boot the infected one into safe mode, and work from there using a USB key to transfer the software. You might also be able to run a system restore in Safe Mode.
Alright, here's my dilemma: I have three computers in an office (2 old piece of shit PCs with Windows 2000 Prof and one brand new Dell with Windows 7 Prof). I have 1 older HP Laserjet P1006 printer that I would like to set up to take print jobs from all three. It is currently connected locally to one of the old piece of shits via USB. I installed the drivers on all systems and ran the printer with each one separately, so there should be no compatibility issues with the printer itself. I don't know how to set up a printer network. I don't even know if it is possible using the different operating systems. I have all three computers connected to a 1000mbps switch in the office, if that helps.
Right click on the printer on the computer that's hosting it, and share it. You'll name it during that process. Note down the computer that's hosting it's name. You can do that by opening a command prompt and typing "hostname" and hitting enter, or right clicking on My Computer, hitting Properties and going to the computer name tab. Go to any other computer, open Windows Explorer or My Computer, and in the address bar type \\computername\ - the name you just looked up. The printer should appear. Double click it.
Ok, I was finally able to get my laptop running. I had to restore it to the factory image by hitting F8 during start up. I moved my wireless router upstairs by my desktop, and by changing the security settings on it, I was finally able to get my PDA to work wirelessly, which I was unable to do for the past year. I also got my laserjet to work wirelessly, too. Here's my question: Can I get my wired in desktop to print on the wireless printer? My laptop prints on it fine, so is it just a matter of installing the driver for the printer and finding it on the network?
Ok, so the name of the computer with the printer connected is BL. I've set the printer to share (which causes it not to print to that computer now, for some reason), and have gone to both of the other systems doing what you suggested. When I type "\\(Other System Name)\BL" in the address bar, I get an error. (Windows cannot access file, and whatnot) After looking at what you wrote again, I retried, but only typing "\\BL\" in the address bar. It asks me for a network password. I don't know what password would be set up on the BL system, but I have all of them that I know about set to blank. That's not working for me. Any thing else before I give up?
Create a username and password on the host system that's the same username/password as the guest system that's attempting to connect. That'd be easiest if it works. W7 has some funkiness in authentication with older operating systems that I was never able to quite pin down. Since it wasn't a critical issue at the time, I never revisited it.
I recently bought a Lacie 1Tb hard drive (I cant remember the model. Its the all black one) I reformatted it to Fat32 so that I can use it on my Mac, PC and PS3. The problem is, its only showing 891GB of useable space. Did I do something wrong? Is there anyway that I can get the 110GB that seemed to have disapeared?
No and no. There are two things at work. First of all, 1,000 gigabytes on your drive is not 1,000 binary gigabytes. It's 1,000 decimal gigabytes. But computers use binary. So estimates are used: we call 1,000 kilobytes, one megabyte. But one binary megabyte is actually 2^10, or 1024 kilobytes. If you do the math, one terabyte is 1,073,741,824 bytes. Divide it out: 1,000,000,000 / 1,073,741,824 = 0.931 terabytes. The correct reported number of gigabytes for your drive (unformatted) would be 931gb. Then, you lose more space to the file system overhead, which is accounting for all of your lost space. It's a funny thing to me that more consumers haven't sat up and taken notice. Realistically, I think if the manufacturers are reporting that they're selling you a 1 TB drive, they need to be selling you a drive with 1,073,741,824 bytes available. But they're not doing it this way; they're using decimal representations of byte counts which don't equate exactly to real space.
Just to clarify the previous (I got a confused rep) - for anyone who cares: We use estimates because we don't think in binary values. We think and are used to dealing with decimal values and generic prefixes that work in nice even chunks like "one thousand kilobytes is a megabyte" and "one thousand megabytes is a gigabyte" just like we think that 12 inches is a foot and 3 feet is a yard. Or, better, metric values like a centimeter and millimeter and kilometer. Multiples of nice round numbers with nice recognizable prefixes. Computers use binary, so each sector of the drive is a zero or a one. Which is two possible values, right? So aggregate binary values (and this is generalizing here) work on two to a certain power. 2^10 = 1024 bytes, or one kilobyte. Only that sucks. Nobody wants to remember that a kilobyte is 1024 bytes, let alone that a terabyte is 1,073,741,824 bytes. That's way too many freakin' numbers. So we all round and refer to the numbers in their totally inaccurate - but a heck of a lot easier to remember - decimal estimates. Note that this isn't an equivalent. It's an estimate, basically just rounding to the nearest easy-to-remember number. So, unfortunately, drive manufacturers give us what we are used to dealing with. The decimal equivalents. They give us a billion bytes instead of 1.074 billion bytes and everyone just assumes it's some magical computer-system-thingie that makes their space go away.
Anybody have an idea why my Firefox browser window suddenly will not open whatsoever? It doesn't even open in safe mode. I quick trip to Firefox's troubleshooting section didn't yield any answers. I'm writing this message using Internet Explorer which is performing just fine. I'm using Windows Vista.
Post this here too: I am having output problems with my ps3. I switch my cord between my system and a Popcorn Hour. For a while everything worked fine. Then the other day the signal started fucking up when it was connected to my PS3. It would crackle and fuzz and lose signal repeatedly. I tried the two beep reset as well as testing the output settings at the TVs 1080i standard but the same crackling sound and fuzz occurs and I cannot get a High Def signal. It only seems to output the normal low def signal through the HDMI cables but no high def. The popcorn hour still outputs in high def so Im pretty sure the PS3 is to blame.
Hey guys, I'm trying to get movies playing that are in a .rmvb format. I've never even heard of that format. I use Media Player Classic (MPC) to play movies, and it does not support it. Does anyone know of any software (free) that would support this format, or how I could convert this .rmvb to a more usual format used to watch movies? Thanks again everyone.
Try this: <a class="postlink" href="http://tinyurl.com/yz79usq" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;">http://tinyurl.com/yz79usq</a>
I believe my video card on my desktop crapped out on me, and I'm in the market for a new one. My computer is a few years old, and therefore has a motherboard (Gigabyte GA-M55SLI-S4) that isn't PCI Express 2.0 x16 (it's the previous PCI Express x16). Regardless of that, from what I have read, the 2.0 video cards are backwards compatible - but please correct me if I'm wrong. My original card was an nVidia 7600 GS 256MB. I don't play games on my computer, and I don't really use any TV-out capabilities. I just need a card that will run Windows XP Professional, at least for right now. Further down the line, I may consider Windows 7, but that's not a big deal to me right now. I did some hunting and came across these two 8400 GS cards: <a class="postlink" href="http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814127368" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;">http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.a ... 6814127368</a> <a class="postlink" href="http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814121360" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;">http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.a ... 6814121360</a> 2 questions: 1. Would either of these be OK for what I want to do? 2. Is there anything else available for under $40 that would give me what I need?
I'm about to go buy the cord that plugs your laptop into your TV (VGA cord right?), so I can watch baseball games on my TV instead of my laptop and I just had a quick question about it. Will the sound for the baseball game be coming from my TV now, or will it be from my laptop speakers? I feel like I remember one of my friends having that problem, but I'm not sure. If that's the case, my laptop speakers suck, so I would have to buy a decent set of speakers so I could hear the game. Hopefully I'm just an idiot and I don't know what I'm talking about, but any help would be appreciated.
If your TV has a VGA input, then it's just a standard VGA (monitor) cable. Make sure your TV has a VGA input. That is video-only, it does not output sound. If you want sound to come out of your TV, you will also have to buy an appropriate cable for sound output - a 1/8" stereo-to-RCA pair cable, similar to this: <a class="postlink" href="http://www.amazon.com/3-5mm-Mini-Plug-Computer-Stereo/dp/B000FEHO0U" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;">http://www.amazon.com/3-5mm-Mini-Plug-C ... B000FEHO0U</a> Radio Shack has them. Wal Mart probably does as well.