Personally, I host a couple of servers at a friend's co-lo that have a huge SAN hanging off of them, and they host subversion and git repositories. All of my documents, code, etc., both personal and business, are up there, in version control no less, so that I can immediately upload revisions or download copies from/to any machine I'm using at the time (my own, or at my parents, a borrowed one at a client's, etc). I also have more laptops than I should, and that makes it really easy to keep everything synched up when I need to. I've also got a big-ass drive pack at home that has everything I need to re-install Linux, Windows, or Mac enironments; basic installers, major patches, applications, licenses, etc) that gets rsync'd up to my server weekly. On that same pack I've got all my pictures, music, torrents, that are also rsync'd monthly.
Sigh. I want a local co-lo. I'd love to be able to make major syncs via a high speed transfer and then sync everything else remotely. Backblaze is great but when I do something like decide to embed contact information into a bunch of my photo files, it queues up a 30gb sync. It'd be great to schedule a co-lo visit, zap the files over, and be done with it.
Yeah... it's in the basement of my company's office, with 1GB direct to my desk. Sure, I only visit the office once a week, but it's handy as hell when I do. For monster updates, I just bring along a portable drive, start the rsync, and go for lunch/drinks.
So I just got all my new parts today, put them together in the new case (this case is wonderful, thanks for the advice binary and Celos), and I'm running memtest now. It loaded up my old Windows 7 (by accident really, I forgot to set the boot order), and it ran LiveCD ubuntu fine, so I'm assuming it's working good. Question though: On this case, the power supply is mounted on the bottom (which I like). However, I realized when I was closing the case that while the power supply is technically right side up, the fan is on the bottom. There's enough clearance below it that it can take in air, but not as much compared to the top. I googled and couldn't find a consensus, should I flip it or is it fine? Also since you have the case binary, did you install any additional fans? I have a spare 120mm fan laying around, I was going to throw it in there for good measure but I decided against it for now, I'll take a look at the temperatures when this thing starts going, but any thoughts? Also, SSD's are tiny. I was expecting something a lot bigger for whatever reason, but then when I opened the small box to see the smaller hard drive I was a little surprised.
The SSDs are laptop drives usually. 2.5" drives. Few things: - I wouldn't run the old install of Windows permanently. Start fresh. My experience is that installs on dissimilar hardware that haven't been prepped for it are often not stable. - If you can give it more air intake, go ahead. Won't hurt anything and more airflow is better. - Measure your temps first. I have all of the fans in this case running on low, with no additional fans, and my system runs cool and quiet. I don't know how many fans came with your case - I have three (I think) Antec case fans all running on low - one in the PSU chamber, one on the back of the main chamber, and one on the top of the main chamber.
Oh, yeah I installed fresh on the SSD and wiped everything from the other drives, it just loaded the old Windows because I didn't set the boot order right on first start up. I'll measure the temps when I'm stress testing it today. This case does run quiet, the only problem now is that I can actually hear the annoying sound my graphics card makes. Gotta find some way to fix that.
There are lots of third party coolers for graphics cards that have nice heatpipes and places to mount large, quiet fans. When I upgraded my card, I bought one that had a quiet cooler attached but the card before this one, I bought a card cooler for not much money.
Eesh, I will not be stress testing today, the one piece that didn't come with everything else was the heatsink so I'm using the stock one for now, and oh boy does it get hot (+83C). Gonna sit on that until the new one comes.
Does anyone have any experience with a program for Windows XP that mimics Expose for Mac OS X? Specifically the ability to hit F9 and have the windows tile individually across the screen. I have tried TopDesk, Expose2, and a few others I found off Google searches and I wasn't really feeling any of them. Figured that I would check here to see if anyone had used a different program out there that they really enjoyed.
In response to a couple of reps, I can't upgrade to Vista as this would be for a work computer. I have the OK from local IT to install anything I want within reason. But I may be dead before our corporate does a company wide upgrade to vista. Anyway, ALT-Tabbing my way through multiple windows seems to be the quick an easy fix.
My absence lately has been due to a sick computer. Any brainstorms as to what is wrong would be most helpful. - Two year old Toshiba Laptop running Windows Vista (don't judge me...it came with the machine) - Freezes with no warning. Once it freezes, it must be forced to restart. I get the best results if I force a restart, let it reboot, then do a normal shutdown. However, once it freezes it typically freezes over and over again. - Appears to freeze the most with g-chat or FB-chat - Freezes with Firefox or IE - Will also go to a black screen, as if in hibernation, but usually only after freezing a few times. It's been with an IT guy twice now, once for over a week. I trust him and he's thorough, and here's the kicker: it WILL NOT FREEZE for him. It works fine. He's done multiple deep scans and hardware checks and the best he can come up with were two trojans that have been removed. I run a wireless Lynksis router. I can't think of anything else that would make it fuck up so consistently and quickly at my place and never at his. Aaaand...discuss....
When it freezes, nothing comes up on the screen right? It's just all of your windows sitting there open, totally unresponsive? I'd be inclined to suspect memory or an overheating CPU. First and easiest thing to do is check the Windows event logs, which your IT guy should have already done but a surprising number of IT guys don't look there first. Under your Control Panel, I think it's under Administrative Tools but it may just have an entry in your control panel. For the memory, you could download a boot disk of Memtest86: <a class="postlink" href="http://www.memtest86.com/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;">http://www.memtest86.com/</a> Burn it, boot it up and let it scan overnight, you want to make multiple passes of your memory. It's low CPU so if it's frozen in the morning, there's a good chance a memory error caused the freeze. For the CPU, you could try a utility like CPU-Z to see if it will display your CPU temperature, and you can keep an eye on it: <a class="postlink" href="http://www.cpuid.com/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;">http://www.cpuid.com/</a> You could also try stress testing the machine with a utility like Prime95: <a class="postlink" href="http://www.mersenne.org/freesoft/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;">http://www.mersenne.org/freesoft/</a> Go to "Setup instructions for new users" - skip step 1 - download the utility and install it. When you run it, select "Just Stress Testing". Run the app and it should start multiple windows for as many CPU cores as you have. If it's a Core2Duo machine, you'll get two windows. If it's a Core2Quad machine, you'll get 4. When it asks what test to run, select "Small FFTs" - we want to heat the machine up. See if it will lock up running that app. If it will consistently lock up running that app, you've at least got a trigger mechanism. You can try blowing your case out with compressed air - sometimes dust buildup will stop the fans from running or cooling effectively, significantly increasing your CPU temps. Most CPUs will throttle themselves during heat buildup, to protect themselves, which can freeze or shut down your machine. P.S. heat is a big thing that happens at home and not in the shop a lot of the time. Running it at home, you've got your ambient temperature which is often higher than an IT shop, and the laptop is usually used in your lap or on a sofa or other insulating surface whereas in the shop it's sitting there on a desk.
I'm an idiot, but thankfully it didn't cost me anything. This time. I've just rewired some parts of my home office so that I have a bit better working area for all the piddly external drives and shit that always seem to clutter up my multiple desks. When I was done, I went to use 2 of the dual-drive external enclosures I have, and neither one worked. They'd power on, but neither would mount. FUCK. I spent a half hour pulling apart the enclosures, checking the drives, connections, etc, when I happened to notice that I had swapped their power supplies. DOH! One was 12V, 1.8a, the other was 12V, 2.2a. The blocks looked identical, and used the same plug, with the same polarity, and yet it was enough of a difference that one of the drive enclosures was over-powered, while the other one was under powered. Swapped them back to the correct boxes, and everything fired up, mounted, and checked out 100%. So, as if you didn't know already, (a) I'm an idiot, (b) attention to detail is key, and (c) I'm damn lucky I didn't fry shit.
Well, I might have you beat. A while ago, doing some hardware upgrades on a machine in our tech area. Well apparently there are two types of ram that look almost identical but are not. Cant remember which off the top of my head I think it was ddr2 and like some kind of weird RDRAM or something. So I put the ram in and the motherboard started on fire Lucky for me it only ruined the ram and board.
After looking on teh interwebs, my problem was pretty common. So, I thought I'd post here in case anybody else needed the info . . . I have a 26" Samsung LCD TV in the kitchen area. Last week, it wouldn't power on. After trying several things, batteries, plugging / replugging and the like, it finally came on. Then, the next day, nothing. It was past its warranty period. However, it has been my experience, that things like that don't just quit, unless it's something simple. Major failures usually shows signs of fading or intermittently working or strange noises, etc. So I headed to the internet. Lo, and behold this is a common problem with the Samsung. So common that Samsung will repair the issue even if it's out of warranty. Apparently, several of the capacitors on the control board were sized wrong. 1 to 3 of them would fail (swelling and/or oozing) and need to be replaced. If you have the model larger than 26", you simply take it to your authorized repair shop, and they would fix it no charge. However, 26" and smaller you had to ship back to them. Also, if they open it up, check it and the problem was something else other than the capacitor issue, there was a $95 diagnostic fee to pay. With shipping, it was going to potentially cost me $130 just for them to tell me my TV was broken. No thanks. I took the back off the TV, and sure enough, one of the capacitors had the top "bumped up." I took the control board off, flipped it over, removed the cap with a soldering iron, and took the damaged cap to my local electronics parts shop. The existing one was 2200uF 10V, so I bought a 16V one to replace it (as suggested on an internet answer . . .) for $2.00. Took it home, soldered that sucker in, and . . . voila! It works. After I took the back off, and saw the one, slightly swollen capacitor, I honestly thought, "it can NOT be this simple." But it was. Yay me. So, if you have a Samsung LCD TV, and it suddenly will not power on, you can fix it yourself without having to pay big for repairs or buying a new one.
I'm trying to learn how to link to a specific point on a webpage. Both on my own website and on any website. But I don't understand. Here's one of the explanations I read. Apparently I need to insert an anchor. Then I need to direct the link to that anchor. But.. 1) How do you make anchors? 2) When they say, insert an anchor, do they mean into the page's code? 3) If so, does that mean it's impossible to link to a point on a page you don't run? Because that is what I want to do more than anything. 4) If not, then where? 5) Can you insert anchors into your blog posts? For example, I use wordpress, could I put <A NAME="anchor">I don't understand what this text is for</A> in the html version of a post? Does that create an anchor? And then to link to that anchor I write <a class="postlink" href="http://www.mywebsite.com/examplepost#ANCHOR" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;">http://www.mywebsite.com/examplepost#ANCHOR</a> ?
<a class="postlink" href="http://www.w3schools.com/HTML/html_links.asp" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;">http://www.w3schools.com/HTML/html_links.asp</a> #3 == Correct. You cannot link to a specific point on someone else's web page unless there is an anchor there. If you provide a URL to the page, it will open it at the top, just like one would expect.
When I open up an HTML document I have stored locally, I get this message: ...But the page in question also opens immediately in Firefox. This happens only if I have no other occurrences of Firefox running; it doesn't happen if I open it in Chrome. This started just today. Any ideas as to how to stop it? It's slightly annoying, as I open Firefox by opening a simple html file in which I store my favorite pages.* *=I think it was the very first version of IE, that Compuserve started distributing when they dropped Mosaic, that kept the favorites in an html file rather than a drop down menu. I'm still using the same (though modified many times) file I had in 1996.
Update: I just found that some Google hits are redirecting to pages they shouldn't, but only in Firefox. Looks like it's been hijacked. (sigh) I guess I'll just try switching to Chrome again, and if I find an essential feature missing like I have in the past I'll try reinstalling Firefox. If anyone has any other suggestions/warnings, please clue me in...