Have gmail changed their attachment rules? I've spent the last 4 hours trying to send 30mb of jpegs out in 3 different emails (one 15mb, one 5mb, one 10mb). I keep having the attachment process fall over and then getting locked out for unusual behaviour. Getting the behaviour in multiple browsers and multiple laptops. Chromium and Firefox on ubuntu, Chrome on windows 7. I usually send pictures to people with Drop Box - but I've sent bigger photo sets to more people before without problem. Annoying as fuck.
I send large emails w/ photos all the time through Gmail. Just sent one a couple days ago with about 20mb worth of photos. Just tried a test email with two large photos totaling 23mb, using the latest version of Chrome. No problems. How many photos are you trying to send?
I also just tried sending an email with 80 attachments totaling 12mb. I had to cancel one of the image uploads in the middle (it wasn't progressing) but all the rest worked fine and I could re-attach the cancelled one with no problem.
weird. It's been fucking with me for hours, but in the last half hour, I've been able to send a bunch of stuff without issue.
Hey guys, are any of you familiar with the Medialink N routers? I'm trying to figure out the QoS on the thing, but can't seem to find it when visiting the settings page. Thanks!
Does anyone know how to make an html or word document with little selectable boxes that could generate text automatically? Like if I check off this, that, and the other thing, it could automatically populate a sentence or paragraph with them?
I'm looking to stretch my wireless network roughly 300 feet to my pool. I've had a new work-at-home job for a while and love the thought of working poolside. There is a large building between my place and the pool, so a directional antenna likely wouldn't work. I can't tether to my phone and use the 3G, and mooching off someone's free internet isn't an option because of the type of information I work with. Mounting something on the roof is also likely out of question because of HOA rules. Any ideas?
Mooch off someone's free internet, but set up a SSL tunnel back to your home computer, so all traffic goes: Laptop -> secure tunnel -> home computer -> internet. None of the traffic will get exposed to the router you're sitting on - it'll only be visible as an encrypted tunnel. Better than mooching, make friends with someone nearby. There are options for you, but they're expensive. Some of the industrial strength directional wireless antennas will blast right through just about anything, but they're going to run you several hundred dollars. And even then, you're going to buy one, try it, and it may or may not be strong enough.
I started building this thing with Excel. It's ok so far, other than the fact that I had to google half the damn steps. I might try to take what I built in Excel and import it to html, if that is possible.
Funny; when I saw your post, my immediate thought was that I could build it in Excel. It should be very easy to build via JavaScript but I'm just not that familiar with JS so I'd just be doing what you're doing with Excel - searching and building it via chunks of others' code.
Not sure which thread to put this in . . . I keep getting this message: "Do you want to Open or Save pcon.js from wtp101.com?" But, only when I visit TiB. It pops up a lot, and I cancel and it pops up again. What is that?
I'd like to set up a Google+ page for my dad for his business - he doesn't really need a whole website for this, since he doesn't plan on doing monetary transactions on the internet, but he would like to have a contact page with some pictures of his work (he's a jeweller). Also, my dad is not on Facebook - he spends very little time on the internet or even at a PC. My question is: would this page be viewable for people who do not have a G+ account?
G+ has more privacy options than Facebook. You can set as much or as little of the page to be viewable to the whole world as you want.
My main storage hard drive is making some very odd noises. It isn't ticking or clicking, but more importantly it isn't showing up in my computer and it's making my startup take a few minutes as opposed to <30 seconds. I made a recording, it doesn't sound great but that's just about what the sound is: http://minus.com/m8WwdudQy/ Any idea what it's doing? Is it salvageable?
Sounds like the drive is failing to spin up. You could try the freezer trick in case it's a physical problem that is causing the drive to fail its spin-up (though it sounds to me like an electrical issue somewhere). It doesn't matter, though, because you had everything backed up on it, right? So just buy a new drive and restore your backup.
Hey Tech nuts, I could use a little advice in the HDTV department. I'm looking to upgrade from my 32" Aquos LCD to a larger screen, smaller profile LED TV. I know around this time of year is the best time to buy the 2011 models, but I don't really know which brand to go with. I'm looking for something larger, 46-55". Couch to TV distance is about 8 ft. It would be cool to have wifi on it, but not necessary. I will be using it for normal guy things, ie. movies, sports, video games, porn, etc. So fast refresh rate is always a plus. Also, it would need to have about 4 HDMI ports for all my gadgets. No need for 3D compatible either. I'm looking at spending between 1-$2000, so price isn't that big of a deal. Any pointers on where I should start researching and shopping?
It is pretty hard not to get a 3d tv, if you are going for LED. I have two toshiba tv's. And old 42" lcd, and a new 55" led. I got the 55" on sale just before the discontinued the non 3d LED tv's. I cant say enough good thing about both my toshiba's. Main things to look for are Refresh Rate, you will want a 240hz (120hz vertical 120horizontal) some call it true 120hz. Brightness, some where around 450cd/m2 Response Time, some were around 5ms Static Contrast Ratio, some were around 1500:1 Dynamic Contrast Ratio, some were around the 6million:1
Except contrast ratios mean exactly nothing. At all. There are no enforced standardized ways to measure them. 6,000,000:1 is just a stupid, arbitrary measurement that has no meaning except it lets some marketing guy tack a few zeros onto the TV spec sheet. Shopping for TVs is a mess right now. It requires trying to filter inflated numbers like static contrast ratios, absurdly inflated and meaningless numbers like dynamic contrast ratios, "features" that don't actually add anything at all like Sharp Quattron's additional yellow pixel in the RGB stripe, and various other marketing terms and specifications that don't do anything. Even brightness is questionable - first of all, how was it measured? The capacity of the panel to display that brightness in a test harness, or the actual maximum brightness displayed during operation? In any event, whether brighter is better depends on how you're using it - there is certainly an adequate brightness above which is meaningless, so the capacity to sear your retinas is not really important. When you go into a store, the color levels, saturation, etc. has all been heavily modified on the TVs, sometimes to help sell their highest margin models, and it's tough to tell even if they aren't because the store lighting is totally unlike anything you'll see in the house. Frankly, it sucks. There are only a few manufacturers of big LCD panels, so if you stick to the big name manufacturers you'll probably get something just fine. Find a few models that are in your price range and desired spec and look up reviews of them online. See if you can look at them in a local store but keep in mind the variances in lighting. If you can access the menus to make sure the contrast/saturation isn't cranked to the max, that'll help - or get a salesman to help you reset it. I generally like Samsung panels because their color is pretty natural - the Sony panels are good as well. An LED backlit display (not side-lit) will provide better brightness and evenness, and if it has local dimming it'll give you better contrast. Another thing to keep in mind: you can nitpick this decision to death. But once you get the panel home, out of the store, you won't have any comparison to other TVs and you'll probably love whatever you get.